Video Interview

Mark Lonsinger came out to interview me last Wednesday at the Cornerstone Community Church where I’ve been camping while my eyebrow healed a bit.  Here’s the result:

https://vimeo.com/71742348

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Appearances

Just when I get a nice tidy blog post about appearances and perceptions coming together in my brain I wind up with a surprise 4 stitches in my eyebrow and the whole thing gets scrambled up again.  Any last vestiges of getting by on my good looks got shot right out of the water last night when I tripped on a piece of farm equipment in the dark.  I don’t recall ever having a black eye before and frankly, I look a bit scary right at the moment.
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A week ago Sunday the ponies and I set out to discover what we could of the state of Ohio.  We had an offer of a place to stop early in the day, but since we’d only come 4 miles I said thank you for the brownies and ice water and decided to ride on.  After 10 miles the ponies were letting me know that it was time to start looking for a place to stop and so I did.  I tend to look for people who are already outside and the first person I approached crossed his arms and looked suspicious as I rode across his lawn.  His neighbor (who has horses) came over to see what was going on and 5 minutes later their voices sounded friendlier but it was obvious that I was not welcome.  In my head were the warnings of people I’d met in the South about how Northerners aren’t friendly, the people in Ohio are rude, it’s going to get harder from here on out and so on.  The next people I saw were a bunch of guys with guns piling out of a pick-up truck at a place that looked pretty much abandoned.  They told me where to find the owner (they just had permission to hunt there) and I rode on, found the trailer, knocked on the door; nobody home but barking dogs.  Next place I stopped I could hear the TV and knocked on the door which had a large “God Bless This House” decal.  I heard dogs and voices but nobody answered.  I knocked again.  A teenage boy came out, looking scared, shut the door firmly behind him and said in a brave quavering voice “Can I help you with something?”  I asked about camping on the lawn for the night and he went in to ask his mom, came back out (door firmly closed behind him) “I’m very sorry but my mom said no.”  I thanked him and rode on.  Saw people up a side road, headed that way, they disappeared.  Finally I saw a man working on something in his garage.  I rode up and asked if we could camp.  “Won’t bother me any.”  So I thanked him and asked about water for the ponies.  He went in to ask his wife who returned with a big Tupperware tub.  Joy!
josh

Later it came out that there had been a psycho in town recently so people were a bit nervous about strangers – but the man’s wife laughed and pointed out that with his size and tattoos people were generally afraid of her husband – and there was no way he was going to be afraid of me!  It turned out to be a great night camping on the lawn and when the father of the teenager got home he apologized and said that he would have been happy to have me stay.  His twin daughters had only seen a horse once before and with very little encouragement they spent most of the evening loving on the ponies.
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Fast forward a few days of beautiful riding, a night in the back of the Methodist thrift store in Fulton (with great graze out back!), a night in the garage of a family in Chesterville and I was riding into Ankneytown.  The ponies were ready to be done for the day and we were being very politely moved on.  A woman on a riding mower stopped to talk.  Her lawn was many, many acres, perfectly manicured – and waterlogged.  There’s a certain breed of mature, land owning New Englander, often a bit crusty, who do all their own yard work as a matter of principle (tho they could obviously afford to hire somebody) and I mentally put her in that category.  We agreed that her yard was no place for ponies and she said that I’d probably have to go another 2-3 miles to find a suitable place.  I thanked her and rode on.  The next woman said the same thing.  Then I saw Leedy Park, which had everything I needed, and asked the next person I saw if I could possibly camp there.  He didn’t think it would be a problem so I went back and set up camp.
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People are complicated!  The next morning an old pick-up truck pulled in and the woman I’d met on the lawnmower got out and walked over with an adolescent (rescued) raccoon crawling all over her.  She apologized for not thinking fast enough the day before and invited me to her house for coffee, a shower and laundry.  Turns out she’s a retired HS Physics and Chemistry teacher who is now teaching part time at the outdoor school.  Her dream was always to hunt and trap and she found somebody willing to teach her and showed me a few of her hides and a photo of last year’s catch hung up on the front of the barn – 160 hides and she ran out of room on the barn!  She went to the fur sale and not only was she the only woman there, she had the most hides and they went for the highest prices.  The men there didn’t believe that she’d gotten them all herself – but she had.  Appearances can be deceiving!  She was living her dream and was excited to be part of helping me to live mine.

Finehorn earns brownie points as a weedeater

Finehorn earns brownie points as a weedeater

a smorgasboard of minerals to choose from

a smorgasboard of minerals to choose from

So – after two days rest at Leedy Park – I rode out Saturday in the pouring rain.  A very clean cut man drove up in his pick-up truck and asked if I wanted a place to get out of the rain.  I was getting directions when it became clear that our communications were crossed.  The rain was forecast to last all day and he wasn’t offering a place to stop for the night.  He pointed out that he didn’t know me and that he had a responsibility to protect his family.  I said that I understood perfectly and that I had no way to remedy that situation but I did have a blog if he wanted to see photos and read about the Journey thus far.  He said that they were a Christian family and thus didn’t want to bring a computer into their home.  He had plenty of questions but sitting on my pony in the rain chatting wasn’t my idea of a good time and so I politely made my escape.  Twenty minutes later he returned with his daughter in the truck and her dress marked them as Mennonites; he offered a home cooked meal and a shower, but still wasn’t comfortable with me spending the night on his property.  I pointed out that since it was going to rain for the rest of the day I needed to find a place for the ponies and I to stop for the night and it wasn’t fair to Finehorn to ask her to stand packed in the rain while I ate and showered.  It takes most of an hour to unpack and pack her and I just didn’t see the point.  Again, I had to make my excuses and extract myself.  I felt bad for the man on one level because he was obviously wrestling with himself regarding right action in this situation, helping a stranger versus protecting his family.  It was tempting to start quoting Bible verses but again, what would be the point?  By that time I’d decided this wasn’t somebody I wanted to stay with anyway.
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I was riding along, thinking about fear and admittedly feeling a little judgemental (and grumpy).  I’d come into an area where most of the farms I was passing were Amish.  I suddenly realized that I was afraid to go up to an Amish house and knock on the door and ask for a place to stop for the night.  What we don’t understand, we fear.  I’d heard many stories and supposition, over three states, about the Amish people from the English (which is what the Amish call the rest of us ;-)).  The few experiences I’d had with the Amish in TN and KY had been very positive.  I’d had great help with Jesse’s back and Finehorn’s feet and they’d been very understanding about Jesse’s fear of their buggies.  Several Amish had stopped to ask where I was going and what the Journey was about (just like everybody else) and still, I was viewing them as “other” and suffering from fear of the unknown.  That isn’t who I want to be.  So, as I was thinking these thoughts I saw three young Amish men outside of a nice house on a hill to my right.  I rode up the driveway and spoke with them, asking if they knew of anyone with a spare pasture for the ponies where perhaps I could take shelter in the barn to get out of the rain.  They asked a few questions and said that the next 3 miles were mostly Amish farms and nothing came to mind.  I rode back out the driveway, psyching myself up for another three miles of soggy riding but hadn’t gone a quarter mile when a tractor rolled up behind me.  The Amish man driving it said that they had box stalls to spare in their barn if that would work.  I thanked him and asked if it would be all right if i camped in their barn.  He looked at me like I was crazy and said “if that’s what you really want to do?”
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I untacked the ponies and put a nervous Finehorn into a big box stall.  She wanted OUT!  I put mr.James in with her which helped a little bit, tho he would obviously have preferred a room to himself.  I was invited into the house and with incredibly gracious hospitality offered a hot shower!  There is a saying, “when in Rome, do as the Romans do” but of course one must first determine what it is that the Romans are doing!  I think this had been a lot of my fear – not knowing how to behave and committing some awful and embarrassing social blunder.  I face this quagmire most nights that I’m invited in, and have realized that it’s always easier to stay in my comfort zone and try to pick houses where I think I already have a clue as to the “culture” and what’s expected of me.  In California it was always scarier riding up to a Mexican house: what if they didn’t speak English!?  In this case, I needn’t have worried.  I helped peel peaches for dessert while home made pizza baked in the oven.  My brother’s family has a “Friday night – Pizza night” and this family had that same tradition on Saturday night.  7 layer salad, ice cream to go with the peaches, interesting conversation and I felt very much at home.  After dinner the family gathered in the living room and sang in 4 part harmony and  my upstairs bedroom was beautiful and comfortable.  After breakfast the devotional focused on Matthew 25: 31-46.  I was invited to Sunday School, but elected to ride on, feeling very grateful for the night’s rest, the company, and the names of relatives I could stay with further on my way.
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It was a beautiful day’s ride, cool and breezy on back roads with very little traffic.  I passed a campground full of RVs and screaming kids and I cringed and didn’t even slow down.  As the ponies started to flag I started looking for a place to stop.  Lots of “no trespassing” signs – and a red truck that came up slowly behind me 3 times, full of 20-somethings who all waved and smiled, waiting to pass on the narrow roads until I found a place to get the ponies off to the side.  The third time I asked them if they were lost and they laughted and said that they were just driving around.  I asked if they knew of a place I could stop for the night with my herd.  They told me about a church camp up the road a bit with a creek and I was riding in that direction when a woman in a red car drove up behind me.  Her kids had told her I was looking for a place to stop and she invited me to come back to the house I’d just passed.  It was a beautiful spot and I tethered the ponies on the lawn, just out of reach of the corn and tucked my gear in the lean-to.  I was invited in for a dinner of fresh veggies and grilled wurst and then went out to check e-mail and set up my hammock.
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As it was getting dark I went to move the ponies, wound up speaking with the neighbors over the hedge for awhile and was walking back towards my hammock.  By this time it was dark and I was walking towards a bright street light and my vision hadn’t adjusted yet.  I tripped on a piece of farm equipment and hit my forehead.  It didn’t hurt too much and I picked myself up and continued walking across the yard when I realized that there was blood running down my face.  I went to the house in search of ice, worried about bleeding on the floor.  My wonderful hostess stayed very calm, brought me to the sink, took a look at the gash and called a doctor who goes to their church.  He suggested that she bring me over so he could take a look and off we went, driving into the darkness at 10pm.  My hostess was thoughtful enough to tell me where we were going “so I didn’t think she was kidnapping me and driving me out into the middle of nowhere in the dark”.  Dr. Scott Brown invited me into his house, laid me back in a recliner and said I needed stitches.  He just happened to have everything he needed in the truck because he’d thought he needed to stitch up one of his sons two days before.  He was on crutches due to a hip replacement a month prior, had on a shirt that read “got garbage” (he used to work as a garbage man)  and the whole scene was a bit hilarious, my hostess taking photos (per my request) and yours truly being very brave (and grateful for the local anesthetic!)
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4 stitches later I was on my way again.  I offered to pay the doctor for his work, well aware of what this would have cost (in time and money) had I needed to go to the emergency room.  He declined, and then half-jokingly said that if he charged me then I could sue him.  How sad is that?  The idea of suing anybody for my own clumsiness and bad luck just hadn’t occurred to me.  But in our current American culture, every time somebody allows me onto their property, every time somebody is kind to me and takes me in for the night, they are running the risk that I could repay their kindness with a lawsuit.  How awful is that?  Last night on the ‘phone my dad had challenged me to write about some of the less wonderful experiences I’d had on this Journey.  When I called home this morning to tell them about my stitches I asked him if this counted.  He said, “No.  This is more like yet another miracle and everything working out perfectly.  This of where this Could have happened.  You easily could have been coming back from the emergency room at 4am, with a huge bill – and that’s IF you could have found somebody willing to drive you!”  And he’s right – blessings once again on the incredible brave kindness of strangers!
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PS – Finehorn had banged her eye while in the stall the night before, so originally I was going to say that I’d banged mine in a gesture of solidarity, but it never quite fit in the post.

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Ohio in July

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“Ah, this is the life, it feels so good to be on the road again.”  she sighed as she sat typing up a blog post while sitting on a picnic bench drinking a Barq’s root beer in the gracious shade of Leedy Park in Ankneytown, Ohio.  The ponies graze happily and the neighbors are friendly and there’s an outhouse, what more could a Long Rider desire on a 70*F day off following four good days of riding? Try fruit and venison bologna and watermelon moonshine!  (I’m not even kidding about the watermelon moonshine – it’s bright pink and smells like something you’d bathe in!)  I slept like a baby in my hammock last night, swaddled in wool horse blankets since the nights are on the verge of chilly and tonight some local horsewomen are taking me out for Pizza!  So spoiled! ;-P

my own little corner of paradise

my own little corner of paradise

the leedy park ladies loo is a 5 seater privy

the leedy park ladies loo is a 5 seater privy

The new Renegade Hoof Boots caught up with me on Monday evening after riding two shortish days with no packs on Finehorn.  The original style arrived for Jesse James and Saint Finehorn is now stylin’ the new Vipers – all in Neon Orange which I somehow thought might not match the ponies quite so well as the Arizona Copper, but which they seem to really want to show off!  I learned Tuesday that if we want to make good time we wear the boots and send the packs via vehicle – both because the ponies step out briskly, but also we don’t get stopped nearly so often by people wanting to know what’s going on.  I might look eccentric, but not such an anachronism.   I’m really impressed with the new Viper design.  The V in the front means that they snug down closer to the hoof wall, the closed heel cup in the back keeps out dirt and detritus and on the second morning Finehorn was helping me put them on, having her next hoof ready and figuring out a maneuver which slides her heel neatly into the cup – clever pony!  We’d had some troubles back in the desert when she wore them through some deep sand and her heel got rubbed (sandpaper on the inside – ouch!) and until now she’s preferred to go barefoot – I wasn’t expecting such a radical change in attitude!

Vipers in the rain

Vipers in the rain

Jesse shows a little leg

Jesse shows a little leg

I saw photos on the fb page of an endurance rider (which I now can’t find to link to) showing the comparative amount of wear to the bottoms of her boots: same ride, same horse, last year’s originals versus this year’s Vipers – and while the originals looked a little chewed, the Vipers looked pretty much new!  The only way to get the Vipers now is to call on the ‘phone and ask – they’re measured in millimeters (same two measurements needed as for the originals) – they come in 5 colors and the folks at Renegade are super helpful and informative on the ‘phone.  Wednesday we did a 12 mile day fully packed with boots and the ponies both did really well, no rub marks from the new boots and making a solid 3mph over roads we would have been avoiding if we were barefoot (but were perfect riding roads otherwise).  Huge thank you to Renegade for sending the boots – and Kudos for making improvements on an already great hoof boot!

no more apples - time to hit the trail

no more apples – time to hit the trail

Just because I’m kind of a dork and find these things fascinating, I wanted to share a couple of close-ups of why all roads are not created equal in terms of a ponies hoof.  As we learned in Tennessee, certain roads that looks really nice and smooth at a distance are actually 4 grit sandpaper under hoof – zillions of sharp little rocks steamrollered into tar is not quite as bad as gravel but certainly much worse than actual cement.
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I am riding through primarily corn and soy beans.  I find myself singing as I ride, “oh what a beautiful morning, oh what a beautiful day… ”  I think the lack of oppressive heat is doing us all good – tho the floods in this area have been mighty.  Whole fields of corn have been drowned and the other day in the aftermath of a downpour the soybeans were in standing water several inches deep.  The word supersaturated comes to mind.

the corn is as high as a Long Rider's eye!

the corn is as high as a Long Rider’s eye!

corn has toes!  who knew?

corn has toes! who knew?

corn after the flood

corn after the flood

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I just realized that I’m running quite low on battery so shall sign off for now – –P1040896

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Recognition

“Free Range!!!”  In early April, just north of Flora, MS on a crazy bad stretch of two-lane  strewn with roadkill a big pickup truck came roaring by, four young men pumping their fists out the windows and yelling  “Free Range!!!”  And guess what?  I wasn’t even annoyed.  A bit shocked at first, but honestly?  Just for a minute there I felt like a total rock star. 😉   And that was nothing on how I felt yesterday when I received an e-mail from CuChullaine O’Reilly of the Long Riders’ Guild with the news that I’ve been chosen to carry the Long Rider Flag for the rest of my Journey to Minot, Maine.  I was reading through tears and hugging myself and misdialed twice trying to ‘phone home to tell my folks, trying to get my voice under control so they wouldn’t be worried.  The flag will be coming to me from New Zealand where it was carried by Pete Langford as he completed the first modern ride across the length of New Zealand’s two islands.  http://www.freewitheveryhorse.com
Pete Langford arrives at the cape on the final day of his ride

I’ve always thought of proud and humble as opposites but right now I’m feeling an amazing and rather heady mix of both.  If you haven’t checked out the Long Riders’ Guild website yet then it’ll be harder for you to understand how incredibly honored I am feeling right now.  I am not a joiner and I never have been.  I’ve never walked across a stage to accept an award or diploma in my life.  While the rest of my class was graduating from high school I was riding my horse 100 miles in 4 days from home up to camp for my summer job.  These sorts of things have just never mattered much to me and have actually seemed sort of embarrassing.  Becoming a member of the Long Riders’ Guild last summer Mattered to Me.  These are my heroes.  I sometimes joke that it’s the club for people who have the same disease that I do, wanting to ride horses across continents – but it’s so much more than that and I wanted in!  I jumped through hoops and answered questions and probably even begged a little.  I caught my breath every time I checked my e-mail and the Long Rider message was the first one I opened.  And they finally said yes.
Flying the LRG flag in New Zealand

But I have to admit, I’ve kind of been feeling like the brash American rookie – bumbling “across the civilized American continent” on a shoestring and a prayer, struggling to keep my herd together, making errors in judgment and not even having A Cause.  I mean, over 100 of the LRG members are also members of the Royal Geographical Society.  British Long Rider Christina Dodwell was recently awarded Spain’s highest international exploration award and Lithuanian Long Rider Vaidotas Digaitis is home from a ride around the Baltic Sea to the Arctic Circle and back (he didn’t carry a gun either).  Historically, I’m in the company of such characters as Oscar Wilde, Isabella Bird, Frederick Law Olmstead and England’s Queen Elizabeth the first.  Are you starting to see the sorts of hoofprints I’m following? – it’s not just Mesannie Wilkins!  Doug Preston and Walter Nelson followed Coronado’s trail, Bonnie Folkins crossed Kazakhstan with men who hunt wolves with eagles (and she took amazing photographs!)  And you know what?  This crew isn’t elitist!  I’ve been welcomed in with open arms, given advice when I’ve asked for it, encouragement when I’ve needed it and treated as a peer – with my $1 pinto pony and my funny little fjord.  And I am so incredibly proud to be granted the right to carry the Long Rider Flag – and fiercely determined to live up to the standards of the Guild.  (Like my dad drilled into us growing up: “with privilege comes responsibility” – words of wisdom for All of us.)

are we almost going yet?

are we almost going yet?

OK – enough with the flag waving – now it is time for me to get some sleep.  Tomorrow we ride.  Yesterday on the way into town to visit the Post Office and pick up a few supplies I noticed that the already flooded Olentangy River was much higher than it had been a few days ago.  This seemed odd because it hadn’t been raining -> where was the water coming from? Turns out we’re just downstream from Delaware Lake and the water had been let out of the reservoir in anticipation of the coming rains.  I had thought to be back on the trail this morning, but plans were slightly rearranged because the new Renegade hoof boots hadn’t arrived yet.  Mid-morning today I found myself exceeding glad for that delay when the skies opened up amidst great crashings of thunder and flashings of lightning.  Sometimes it’s a very nice thing to be safe and dry inside, knowing that the ponies have a shelter of their own in which they can take cover if they so choose.
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And this guy?  Riding from Hooters to Hooters across the USA for photo ops and free beer?  um – NOT a Long Rider.
Hooters on horseback

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Just for fun

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For some reason I have been pondering about bee hives lately.  There is a colony of bees living in the septic tank under my casita on Vieques – not the sort of thing you’re going to collect honey from…  I have been wondering if there are any viable and visually pleasing alternatives to those ubiquitous (and boring) white rectangles which people who keep bees tend to favor.  I recently learned the word for the old-style dome shaped beehives (the ones that the hair-do is named after) – Skep.
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Yesterday Elsbeth took me to a great little bookstore in downtown Delaware, Ohio and apart from having some of the most amazing street art I’ve seen in a long time, it’s called the Beehive – and the mosaic features a skep.  Sweet!
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Also sweet was Whit’s frozen custard shoppe next door, but I shall not post photos of my gluttony. 😉
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A Change of Pace

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Thursday morning the ponies and I were in Bowling Green, Kentucky.  Thursday evening found us in Delaware, Ohio.  A distance that would have taken us over a month to travel by hoof was done in a day.   It’s hard to know how to even think about that.  The entire way I didn’t have a single conversation with anyone outside of the truck I was riding in beyond “cheeseburger, catsup only” and “thank you”.   Cincinnati flew by (or, more properly, we zoomed through Cincinnati) so quickly that all I had time to register was surprise at the interesting architecture of the large buildings there (who knew?)  and Columbus was marked by the traffic of rush hour.  The rolling hills and sink holes west of Bowling Green gave way to close, wooded hills and then flattened out to farmland and I have no idea what any of it smelled like.  The magnolias have been left behind along with some of the humidity.  The rivers are still flooded and muddy although the mud seems to be less red and more brown here.  I am left with a vague feeling of having missed something.
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Rereading my previous post I realize that, unless you’ve been following me on fb or checking the “daily update/contact info” page (at the top of the blog) you may have a vague feeling of having missed something as well – like, why are we suddenly in Ohio (via trailer?)  Long story short, Finehorn came up lame on the 4th of July.  As in, “Don’t make me walk over there for a treat, please bring it to me” lame.  After consulting with two vets and an Amish farrier the cause was determined to be my own bullheaded stubbornness on two counts.  One was the goal of reaching Kentucky for my birthday.  The other had to do with how well the ponies had been doing barefoot and my not taking some extenuating factors into account.  1).The ponies had been standing in grassy pastures for most of their 6 weeks of rest and had lost much of the toughness they’d built up in their hooves.  2).The back roads in Tennessee are made of some awful pressed composite rock substance that looks smooth but is actually pretty rough.  3).Jesse is usually the more tenderfooted of the pair and since he was doing fine and it was Finehorn’s back hooves (out of sight… ) and she’s such a trooper (Not a whiner!) I just didn’t catch it in time.  Why it took two days to manifest is still a mystery.

words of wisdom from Elsbeth

words of wisdom from Elsbeth

She’s already doing much, much better.  I painted her soles with the special paint and walked a mile with her today and although Jesse whinnied frantically from the pasture, running along the fence and missing us desperately, Finehorn walked out beautifully.   Renegade is sending 6 more hoof boots so that both ponies will have a full set to go on with and we should be on the trail again within a week.   Which brings us back to the subject of schedules and deadlines and what this Journey is really all about – which was never supposed to be schedules and deadlines and “destination at all costs”.   I realized, belatedly, that I’d gotten my priorities confused and we were all suffering for it.
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In the midst of my freak out, when I was feeling like a fraud and a failure and a few other f-words, I got an e-mail from CuChullaine O’Reilly of the Long Riders’ Guild.  He had noticed that I was in Kentucky and was sending contact information for several interesting and potentially helpful people in the area as well as sharing that not only had Mesannie Wilkins travelled through Glasgow, KY, that was also where he’d gone to write his book, Khyber Knights And that was where he and Basha had been married and gotten the Long Riders’ Guild up and rolling.  All this the day before I was due to leave for Ohio via trailer.  Oy.  I wrote back, a long rambling e-mail alternating between explanation, justification and angst – pouring out my soul and my situation – half afraid I was about to be booted from the Guild but knowing that I couldn’t be the first to face a similar scenario and hoping that he’d share some wisdom and perspective to help straighten out my head.  Blessings on CuChullaine, he did exactly that.
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Among other things he reminded me why I started out in the first place: “to see my country, one hoof print at a time, to connect with people, to explore the corners of my own soul.”  And he reminded me that I’ve done all that.  Ok.  I’ve also decided to end my ride in Minot, Maine to pay homage to Mesannie and Tarzan (her horse) on 8.November.  Ok.  I’ve already ridden well over 1000 miles and there’s no shame in putting the needs of my ponies ahead of my ego – that’s expected of a Guild member.  But the best thing he wrote, after pointing out how long it took Marco Polo to reach the court of Kublai Khan, was this:  “Enjoy every moment left in the saddle.”  And that’s what I intend to do.  There’s no sense in pushing the miles and rushing the Journey and being stressed out and exhausted.  There’s no sense in pushing the ponies (or myself) past the limits of endurance.  If I’m in too much of a hurry to stop and talk with people along the way?  That’s failing.
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After 21 months on the trail the ponies and I are worn out.  We have 4 months left to travel before we’re due in Minot, Maine for the end-of-the-trail party.  The last weekend of September I’m planning to attend a Nature Writing workshop led by the editor-in-chief of Orion Magazine in Rowe, Massachusetts (with the ponies ;-)).  From there to Minot is 250 miles and we’ll have 40 days to cover it.  Between now and then I fully intend to enjoy every moment I have left in the saddle, continue to “see my country, connect with people and explore the corners of my soul.”  Because That’s the point, not how far or how fast – not proving anything to anybody – just riding each day because that’s what I’m doing with this part of my life.  If the ponies are tired, we’ll stop and rest.  If somebody offers me a cup of coffee or a cold lemonade, I’ll say yes.  If we find a sweet camp beside a creek with plenty of grass and the weather is perfect maybe we’ll decide to stop an extra day.  It seems so silly to me that I’d made the conscious choice to step out of the mainstream – off the treadmill – and then I somehow tried to turn this ride into that sort of experience after all.  No more.  The ponies and I will amble and ramble and make friends with chickens and children and all who cross our path.  That’s why we’re out here!
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Kentucky Celebration!

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I am sitting contentedly on a breezy hill in beautiful Kentucky as the sun sets. Yesterday I crossed the state line after a long 15 mile day, practically dragging Saint Finehorn.  The very first person I saw asked if I needed water for the ponies and I accepted gratefully.  I wanted to ask her to say “Happy Birthday, Welcome to Kentucky” but I felt silly so instead I asked if she knew of a place where we could rest for a day or two since we’d only had two days of rest out of the past 12 and were well overdue for a break.  She made a ‘phone call, handed me an icy coke, hopped in her car and returned a few minutes later with great news.  I rode over the hill and across the road where a man in a white pick-up truck was waiting to lead me to my haven.  It’s 1/2 a mile into a big farm, down on a spring-fed pond. There are two caves, one with water emerging and the other dry. The Red River (a different Red River) is just over the bluff.
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I unburdened the ponies, set up camp and slung the hammock between two trees, changed into my PJs and had a great conversation with my folks who had just been in Minot, Maine visiting with the woman who is setting up the end of the trail festivities.  It was after dark and I was reading in the hammock when I saw headlights approaching.  What!?!  I heard voices and beeps and went down to investigate.  There woman who had originally welcomed me to Kentucky was there with her family (3 generations!) and they handed me a mason jar with a birthday cake in it, complete with candle and sang Happy Birthday!  What a wonderful surprise!  They’d also brought a cooler with ice and a bunch of food and we stood by the fence while I ate my birthday cake and the ponies tried to figure out what was in the cooler.  I’m sorry about the lack of photos, but this was all happening in the pitch dark.  Fresh melon and tomatoes from the garden, eggs and sausage for morning – talk about spoiled rotten!
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Today I’ve had many visitors and felt incredibly welcomed to Kentucky.  Organic zucchinis went into my breakfast skillet and tonight a T-bone steak and baked potato were delivered to my camp.  The ponies are grazing and resting and keeping tabs on things and places to stay as we head NE towards Bowling Green are being set up.  Did I mention the homemade jam?  If this is a foretaste of Kentucky, I’m really excited about July.P1040744

And now it seems that rain is starting to drip from the sky so I’ll keep this short and try to write more very soon.  Will add photos tomorrow too as connection is glitchy and storm is arriving.

Harvestmen sheltering from the Storm

Harvestmen sheltering from the Storm

 

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Horses Sweat, Men Perspire, Women Glow

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It’s been a good week.  It’s been a hot and humid week.  It’s been a week of remembering who I am and why I’m out here and being so grateful for my beautiful herd.  The state of Tennessee has seemed so much sweeter since the break and even at 90*F (and did I mention muggy?) the ponies and I have more energy and enthusiasm than we’ve had in quite some time.  We’ve been camping out more often than not and the blackberries are coming ripe.  I think summer is going to be tasty this year!  I’ve been seeing wild mushrooms in the woods (including a chanterelle) and passing thriving vegetable gardens in people’s yards.  And then there’s milkshakes…  😉
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Last Sunday afternoon the ponies and I were dragging.  We’d been looking for a place to stop for several miles and nobody was home at the few places we saw.  Finally I knocked on a door and a woman answered.  I’d interrupted dinner and she and her husband went back inside to discuss things.  I waited with my wilting ponies.  Half an hour later I was on my way again with a plate of leftovers and the suggestion that 5 miles further on was the Natchez Trace and there were some horse trails there…  (!?!)  I have no problem with people not wanting to host me, for any reason (or no reason at all) but I much prefer they say no quickly, rather than adding half an hour of standing around to an already long, hot, weary day.  The man said something about his wife not feeling comfortable with me being there, “you know how it is with strangers…”  I wanted to say, “Yes!  I, of all people, do know how it is with strangers.  The vast majority of them are kind and compassionate and don’t treat me like a bum.”  But instead I thanked him politely for the food, which somehow didn’t go down all that well as I walked with my ponies on up the road hoping that they weren’t representative of the neighborhood.
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They weren’t!  I came to a cluster of tidy, burby houses, manicured lawns  – not the sort of place one would expect to be welcomed with ponies.  I saw a man in a bright orange shirt working in his garage and rode up the driveway anyway.  He couldn’t have been more helpful.  The ponies were soon watered and tethered to the Bradford Pear trees lining the drive (yes, I warned him that they were likely to leave piles of fertilizer in their wake) and I was shown to the guest room.  The neighbors through the fence invited me over for kielbasa and kraut and their pool made me wish I had a swim suit.  That night when I went to move the ponies to the grassy alley beside the house Jesse wasn’t doing well.  He was sweating around the ears and lethargic.  I offered mineral salt and more water but went to bed worried.  The next day I was offered a rest day and accepted, mostly on Jesse’s account.  Gatorade in the water helped some.  That afternoon an insane storm blew in with hail and rain and lightning and thunder and Wind.  The tree Jesse had been tied to the day before blew down and blocked the driveway.  3 more trees blew down on the property and then within two hours it was all over.  So glad to be inside and ponies safe!
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Wednesday night another storm was predicted and I was desperate to find a bit of shelter in case of hail and a better solution for the ponies than tying to a tree.  We wound up in an old, old barn with a floor composed entirely of cow pies in every state from gooey green and new to hard packed dusty ancient.  I didn’t even put down the tarp, just slung the hammock and tried to keep everything off the ground.  Lots of nails already in the walls helped with that endeavor.  Jesse came in to the barn and hung out with me for a long time while I was reading in the hammock, letting me pet him and scratch his neck and being uncharacteristically affectionate and sweet.  I can’t say I minded.  The storm blew in that night, nothing major after all, and the ponies stayed outside grazing.
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The past three nights we’ve been camping creekside.  Thursday night found us on the South Harpeth River – and mr.James in the river for about 4 hours.  Finehorn joined him for an hour and 1/2 of that and yours truly for about 45 minutes.  The ponies kept rolling, in the water and on shore, and I started to worry until I realized that I was itchy and sweating glowing while lying in the hammock in the shade and noticed how often I went to the river and doused myself with cool creek water.  That night was the first time in a week that I did the skin pinch test on Jesse and he was Not dehydrated.  Yeah for that!  I think putting Gatorade powder in their drinking water is helping.  Finehorn was still sweating until the sun went down, Norwegian ponies not being designed for extreme heat.
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Yesterday, riding up the road I saw a sign for Cheatham County Animal Control, I was feeling only a little nervous until I saw a man in uniform with a gun on his hip walking towards me up the driveway.  Gulp.  Then he gave me a huge smile and said what a beautiful sight and how they usually only see animals in really bad condition.  He complimented me on the ponies and what great shape they’re in and how well they’re doing.  I asked him about a perfectly round 2″ diameter spot on Finehorn’s flank that hadn’t sweated in two days (I was worrying that it might be an indicator of Lyme) and he took a photo and sent it to their vet who spoke with me on the ‘phone and was wonderfully friendly and reassuring.  Great stop!
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Today I was interviewed for the Ashland City paper and the ponies were hamming it up in Sam’s Creek.  Finehorn was pawing and churning and flopping down in the water and rolling and reminding me that horses are related to hippos (and dolphins!)  I also got a great haircut from my hostess and was able to do laundry and get clean.  It felt like a spa day and a perfect day off.  The ponies are tethered in a former hay field with plenty of lush grass and clover.  Tomorrow we ride the narrow, twisty road to Ashland City, crossing the Cumberland River and hoping for less traffic on a Sunday morning.  I’m still on track to enter Kentucky (state #9!) on my 48th birthday.  Really happy about that!
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Onward into Summer

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Back on the road again and I’ve got to say it feels really good – despite the heat which is ranging between boggling and stunning (not to mention the humidity).  Lucy and Amber rode out with me yesterday for a couple of hours and showed me great farm roads and short cuts.  The ponies slowed down a bit once their company left, but still went willingly in the direction of further.  On Thursday, when I finally brought Jesse’s Bosal (the bridle I ride him in) out to the pasture to catch him (instead of his halter, which is day off garb) he was so excited that he pretty much put it on himself, thrusting his nose into the Bosal part and moving his head to make it as easy and quick as possible for me to slide it up over his ears.  I laughed at him and he gave me “nose kisses” (our morning ritual and one of the “mood gauges” I use with him.)  I guess he was ready to hit the trail again!
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I’ve been seeing the Amish buggies around town while running errands, but this was the first time for the ponies.  Jesse, even after two days of being passed by them on the road, still goes into flight mode.  Finehorn is positively fascinated; I think she wants one!  I’ve stopped at noon the past two days, partly to protect the ponies and let them build back up gradually after the long hiatus and partly because my head is swimming in this heat.  Last night I camped by historic Alexander Springs and slept in my hammock for the first time since last summer in New Mexico.  It felt really good and the moon was amazing.  I was 30′ from a road and it felt a bit like sleeping in public, but nobody bothered me.  Alexander Springs is a 4’x6′ cement box full of algae and about 18″ of water.  There’s a PVC pipe sticking out of the side but no water is flowing.  The water level was too low for the ponies to reach so last night the owner of the property and I carried hose water to them in an ice chest.  There’s one really big frog in residence and a bunch of funny tadpoles that shoot up to the surface, flip and descend.  They bear a strange resemblance to raindrops, but upside down, falling up to bounce off the surface, and existing at the next level of density.  I haven’t taken photos of the Amish according to their preference.  I didn’t take photos of the spring because my brain was too cooked to cognate.
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Tonight I’m in my tent in a field.  The roads are quite close and have plenty of traffic (what’s up with those blatty mufflers boys put on their trucks?) but I’m shielded by a scrim of trees and it feels private.  Water this afternoon came in a Tupperware tub – good thing the ponies are adaptable!  The ponies are really loving having me back out with them again, grazing around the tent and generally being sweethearts.  The big excitement today came in the form of deer.  The first one was down in a dry creek that ran beside the road.  As we passed by it startled and ran clattering invisibly up the rocky bed and Jesse was so scared he almost threw himself in front of a truck.  Lucky for us that local drivers are very horse savvy (due to the Amish living among them).  A mile or two later a wee fawn who’d been left hiding in the bar ditch suddenly sprang up and ran across the road right under Jesse’s nose.  It was very young, spotted and gangly and I hope it found it’s mum.
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Yesterday we covered 8.5 miles.  Today it was 10.5 and Jesse’s back is still doing well.  If we can make 15 tomorrow we can camp by a lake at a boat ramp but we’ll just have to see how it goes.  I’m 107 miles from the KY border tonight.  I’d really thought I’d be in Ohio by my birthday on 2.July.  Now I’m to the point of hoping to be riding into Kentucky on that date.  It’s entirely up to the ponies and how they’re doing but that’s my goal.  (It’s good to have goals, so long as I don’t let them overtake common sense and care of the herd.)
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the Onset of Summer

The past 5 weeks have been wonderful, exactly what the ponies and I have needed, perfect, insanely frustrating and Not According to Plan.  My mom called today to remind me that it’s been almost two weeks since my last blog post and that’s not a good way to keep an audience.  I know!  It just seems silly and sad to keep writing “a little better today, progress is slow but steady, nope, not quite yet, getting hotter outside, big thunder storm today, the ponies are bored, i’ve fallen in love with two baby goats, learned to make Chevre (‘real’ goat cheese), reading a lot, went to the Tractor Supply today, mr.James is improving steadily, nope, not quite yet… )  Maybe if I were a better writer I could contrive to make that fascinating, but much of life just isn’t!  This week I’ve received a help-offering ‘phone call and two friendly e-mails assuming that I’m back on the road again and wondering how far we’ve gotten and how we’re doing.  Tomorrow is the first day of summer (although by the heat and humidity around here you could have fooled me! ;-))  20 weeks from tomorrow the ponies and I have a date to keep with Minot, Maine – 1400+ miles from where we are today.
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Tuesday I looked at the calendar, again, and the map, again, and did the math, again, and reached a firm decision that it’s time to head out and at least see what’s possible.
Yesterday I cut two holes in the beautiful, brand new, thick and cushy, weight-distributing saddle pad that a friend in Texas bought for mr.James.  They’re directly over the “problem spots” and I carefully beveled the edges (to the best of my ability) with a razor blade.
Today I saddled up and rode for an hour and a half, ponying Saint Finehorn who was NOT going to be left out of even a minor adventure.  I followed Lucy and Amber on a long loop that led over the creek and almost all the way to Walmart.  Lucy heard a kittten crying along the creek and stopped to rescue it.  Finehorn’s lead rope was used more to restrain her forward motion that to encourage it and Jesse didn’t complain once.  We got home and, with no little trepidation, I removed the saddle and pad from Jesse’s back.  The one remaining pink spot (which I’d smeared medicine on before we left) was beautifully untouched but there were two raised areas, one on each side, exactly the same size and shape as the holes I’d cut.  Within half an hour these were back to normal and Jesse and Finehorn both enjoyed being hosed down before going out to graze.  I think that the raised areas are like the temporary marks from a bra strap or tight jeans, just horse sized.  I have no real clue if this is likely to cause problems up the road.
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Jesse James still has one pink spot the size of a quarter on the left side of his back.  It has two small (size of a pencil eraser print) areas that were oozing a tiny bit until Tuesday when I switched over from Corona to Furazone Ointment.  The rest of his back looks good and his hair has grown back and he doesn’t complain any more than usual about being groomed.  He felt strong and willing under me today and glad to be out doing something.  I’ve dropped a stone (that’s 14 pounds) in the past two months and reduced Finehorn’s pack weight by about the same amount.  In an ideal world we’d probably wait another two weeks before heading out again but it’s getting hotter here every day, Maine isn’t getting any closer and frankly, funds are running a bit low.  It’s been my experience that it costs more to stay still than it does to keep moving.  The Journey, much to my amazement and deep gratitude, seems to be strangely self-sustaining as long as the ponies and I keep moving.  It’s become a life changing point of faith for me that everything I’ve needed has been provided exactly as I’ve needed it.  At this point I’m down to $75 plus 6 days of food.  There have been tighter moments in the past 20 months, but it’s definitely time to get back on the road!
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The other challenge with the change of season is going to be the HEAT!  There are days when it’s hard to breathe through the moisture in the air by 10am.  My pattern had been to ride “between the rush hours”.  It seems to be the safest time to be on the wee back roads we favor and means that we’re looking for a place to stop for the night about when people are getting home from work.  In the colder months it’s been nice to be getting up and out after the sun has risen and gotten to work warming things up a bit.  I don’t think that’s going to be my best plan through the next several months.  My current thinking is that I’ll get up at first light and be packed and riding by 7am.  (It takes about two hours from opening my eyes to setting foot in the stirrup.)  I’ll alternate riding and walking Jesse, depending on how he’s doing (and how I’m doing) and hope to be looking for a place to stop by mid-day.  I think the real challenge will be getting to sleep by 9pm!  I’ve also realized that riding and walking and camping in rain, while still soggy and less than comfortable, is at least not in any way life threatening and is substantially cooler.
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Lucy has offered to come and retrieve me with her horse trailer if we run into trouble with Jesse’s back (or anything else) in the first three or four days.  That’s a HUGE relief in terms of my mental state.  It’s a strange and ridiculous thing, but every time we’ve had a rest stop for any real length of time I start to lose faith in the Journey.  I know in my head that I’ve been doing this for over a year and a half and it’s been working and it’s possible and actually fun and good most of the time, but towards the end of a break it just all starts to seem insane and ill-advised and scary all over again.  I know from past experience that by day two I’ll be back in the groove again – but having a “rescue wagon” on call, especially under the current circumstances, is a huge blessing.
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One other fun thing – my folks are going through Minot, Maine en route to a teaching gig at a camp at the end of June.  They’ll be meeting with the people putting together the “end of the trail party” and hearing about some of the plans.  AND, I promise, starting tomorrow, to update the “Daily Update/Contact Info” page on the blog every day that I have internet access – which should be most of them.  AND to get back in gear on facebook w/ photos and route updates – like: does anybody know anybody who has knowledge of the ferry that crosses the Ohio River at Augusta, Kentucky?

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