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I recently learned that my dad and my aunt, who are both actively supportive of my Journey, didn’t know that I put a new photo up on facebook most days.  I also learned that many people who have “liked” me on facebook have no idea that I’ve also got a blog where I post not only stories of the ride (with Lots more photos!) but also have a daily update page (click on the words across the top that say “daily update/contact info”).  Other pages on the blog (accessed by clicking on the appropriate words across the top) include Route, “Why?” and a Wish List.  Right now I’m working on finding small roads and (even better) horse friendly trails across Northern Massachusetts, SE New Hampshire and on up into Maine to Minot.  If you (or somebody you know) are on my route and have good local route ideas and/or room for the ponies and me I’d love to hear from you either via facebook, a blog comment or an e-mail sent to: freerangerodeo@gmail.com

check out the new fall hat!

check out the new fall hat!

I made a mistake and sent out my last blog post to the e-mail list before all the photos were in place – so if you’re following via e-mail you might want to visit the blog to see the rest of the photos (and catch a glimpse of what else is going on in blog world!)  If you visit the Free Range Rodeo facebook site you can see a wee map up at the top – which I try to keep updated so that if you click on it you can see where I am on a daily basis.  There’s a button on the blog page that should take you right over to my facebook reality – and clicking on “continue reading->” on facebook should bring you to the blog.  I greatly appreciate those of you who are following my Journey – and also really appreciate it when you share, like, leave comments, tell your friends about the adventure and otherwise encourage me along the way.  Thank You!

mom and dad with the ponies

mom and dad with the ponies

Tomorrow the ponies and I embark on the final leg of our Journey!  My dad is in the garage right now figuring out a way to secure the Long Riders Flag to Finehorn’s saddle and I still have half a dozen things on my to-do list so this post will be brief!  The ponies are quite plump and sassy after two weeks of rest and I’m feeling much healthier after two weeks of my mom’s amazing cooking, sleeping in my own bed and taking some long hot soaking baths!  Tomorrow I’ll have the privilege of meeting Long Rider Lucy Leaf (who rode her horse Igor across the country – and back! – in the 70s).  We’ve spoken on the ‘phone a couple of times and today she scouted out my route for the next two days and found a place for me to camp tomorrow night – what a blessing!  Very excited about that.

introducing Finehorn to the flag

introducing Finehorn to the flag

Also excited to report that Gryph Wulfkil, Finehorn’s human and my boon companion (who accompanied me on the first 5 months of this Journey and has been back to visit several times since) has started a blog: www.FinehornsFancy.wordpress.com  – Sagas of Circus and Art.  Gryph will come down from NECCA Circus School in Brattleboro, VT to Rowe, MA Sunday afternoon for a reunion with Finehorn (and of course Jesse James and yours truly) and we’re all pretty stoked about that.
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It’s my understanding that cell ‘phone and internet access in Northern Massachusetts will be quite limited.  I’ll be doing my best, but if you don’t hear from me for a few days please don’t worry – I’ll be back in touch soon!

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I Love Questions

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One of the strange ironies of the past two years – as I’ve embraced the life of a Saddle Tramp, technically “homeless and indigent”, often sleeping in barns, abandoned houses or under the stars, cooking one pot meals on my wee camp stove and drinking my morning mocha out of a tin cup, relying on the grace of God and the kindness of strangers for everything the ponies and I need to survive, frequently a bit aromatic, with dirt under my nails and one pair of jeans to my name – in the midst of all this, somehow, people are assuming (out loud) that I’m highly educated – meaning university, implying degrees.  It’s hard to know how to reply to that sometimes.  I’ve got 68 credits from 3 colleges and CLEP exams.  That doesn’t even add up to an associate’s degree, much less anything that would have me proudly adding letters after my name.  But in truth, I’ve been blessed with a marvelous, deeply satisfying and very useful education.  Partly because I’m an enthusiastic and wide ranging reader, but mostly because I ask a lot of questions and I’ve been blessed with diverse and brilliant mentors who are passionate about what they do.
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One of those mentors was a professor at NW Connecticut Community College – he taught recreation (and made half a million a year in real estate on the side).  I landed in his class quite by accident and he totally changed my approach to learning.  He reminded us that an education is quite a commitment in terms of time and brain power (as well as money for many types of education) and it’s silly to be there at all if you’re not going to get the very most you can out of the experience.  He then proceeded to suggest such simple techniques as sitting in the front row, actively thinking about the topic and engaging the instructor with intelligent questions.  He reminded us that teachers have egos (as do we all) and they don’t want to feel like they’re wasting their time – they’ll be more likely to take an interest in a student who is taking an active interest in the class.  This all seems pretty basic, but from then on I pursued the best teachers, no matter what they taught, and I sat in the front row and asked a lot of questions.
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Last week the ponies and I had the opportunity to visit with the senior citizens at Kenwood Manor.  Some of these people predate cars!  I also had the chance to spend some time with the Caps and Chaps 4H group in Delmar, NY, elementary school through high school kids.  Both groups asked really great questions and made me feel like my time with them was well spent.  When I stand in front of a group that can’t think of a single thing to ask me I worry about their intellects a little (and I certainly don’t respect them in the morning!)  So – I’m a fan of questions.  They make my life easier and more interesting, both when I’m asking them and when they’re asked of me.  How else am I to know what interests others?

it's How much further!?

it’s How much further!?

My most recent blog post elicited the following questions, for which I am grateful, as they let me know the sorts of topics I’m not addressing:  Are you not concerned about your animals colicing from wanton consumptiom of apples? Are you still using Renagade boots and why Renagade and not the better known EZ Boot? And r u habitually riding w/o protective headgear and if so if something happened to you in a road accident where would that leave the horses?
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New York is having a bumper crop of apples this year!  When the ponies first discovered the apple trees along the trail they’d stop for a snack and not want to leave the tree.  They soon discovered that there was a seemingly endless supply of such trees strung along our route and were soon quite content to grab and go.  The first night we were in a situation where there was to way to let them graze without access to unlimited amounts of apples I was quite concerned and kept a close eye on them.  Clever ponies, they ate a reasonable amount of apples, then proceeded to graze on the grass and clover, occasionally returning to grab a few apples, then back to the grass.  They were fine in the morning and I stopped worrying about them quite so much.  At my parents’ house there are three apple trees, many flowers, grass and hay – and there were sunflowers.  The ponies started eating the apples from the ground up and by Wednesday afternoon my nephews went up the trees to throw a bunch of unreachable apples down since the ponies had eaten as high as they could.  They’re ignoring the hay for the most part and only get into the flower beds when they’re bored and wanting attention.  The sunflowers didn’t stand a chance.
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The conventional wisdom regarding the digestive tracts of horses is that they need to eat the same amount of the same thing at the same time every day.  This is not a reasonable expectation on a Journey of this sort and before I started I had the opportunity to ask a vet about how to handle feeding my herd.  He said that any day we were covering 15 miles the ponies could eat pretty much anything they want and be fine.  This has turned out to be largely true – with two random exceptions.  First, Finehorn is allergic to alfalfa.  If she’s on mostly alfalfa for a week she starts to break out in hives.  Our one colic scare this entire trip happened down in the Los Padres wilderness where somebody had left a bag of compressed alfalfa cubes in a storage area and the rats were starting to eat them.  I figured better my herd than random rats and as graze was scarce I fed the alfalfa cubes, somehow not twigging to the fact that a pony sensitive to alfalfa probably shouldn’t have the compressed version.  Stupid!  Finehorn started to colic, we were 30 miles from the nearest access to humans and twice that to anywhere that a cell ‘phone might be expected to function.  No Banamine in the first aid kit – what to do?  Walk the pony!  Somebody had left behind half a bottle of Wild Turkey in the old cabin where Gryph and I were camping and we had half a bottle of olive oil for cooking – old school!  Finehorn finally passed a big, dark, smelly glump of nastiness and felt much better.
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The other exception is even stranger.  Jesse James doesn’t metabolize sugars well, it makes his muscles start to deteriorate.  He has a condition that’s akin to diabetes in humans.  Low starch feeds are ok, but they’re expensive and can be hard to find and grain isn’t in the weight allowance in terms of Finehorn’s carrying capacity.  He generally does really well foraging on graze and hay.  One night somebody, with the best of intentions (but without asking me first), gave each pony a big scoop of sweet feed.  I didn’t catch it in time and the next day Jesse was literally shaky (and kind of weirded out) as we went down the road.  He was fine within a few hours, but I’m a lot more careful to let people know up front not to feed him horse food, please!
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The ponies do get a pelleted vitamin supplement to make sure they’re getting the nutrition that they need.  Many of the areas we have ridden through have been low in selenium, or in the calcium needed for proper selenium uptake.  We’ve been getting Equerry’s Choice vitamins from www.animalhealthsolutionsinc.com which has Selenium, Biotin for their hooves, a range of probiotics for digestion along with a whole slew of vitamins and minerals.  Within a few days of starting them on the supplement I started noticing a positive change in energy levels, eye, coat and attitude.  The bag weighs 5# full and since Finehorn carries 80-100# total you can see what a high priority I place on this supplement.  I also carry and feed (free choice) loose mineral salts.  Other than that, the ponies eat like mustangs eat and they do fine!  Not every horse is suited to this lifestyle; I’m blessed that mr.James (hybrid pinto vigor) and Finehorn (tough and sturdy Fjord) are thriving as Long Ride ponies.
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Yes, I’m still using the Renegade Hoof Boots.  I tried the EZ boot gloves pre-trip and they didn’t work for Jesse and I at all!  I had them fitted by a professional barefoot trimmer and EZ boot rep, so that wasn’t the problem.  They were difficult to put on, then they didn’t stay on well (even with the optional power strap added), Jesse didn’t want to go faster than a walk in them and they ate holes in the front of his coronet bands.  On top of all this, the neoprene part wore out within a week of daily use and when I learned that they cost $25 (each!) to replace I returned the boots.  The Renegades are quick and easy to put on, they’ve proved pretty much indestructible, the ponies really like them and have learned how to help me get them seated correctly.  They come with a spare set of Velcro straps (free) and the first set had gotten me all the way through New Mexico before I had to replace the Velcro!  The first set of Renegades were lost during an accident in Texas and the ponies went happily barefoot until the chip’n’seal roads and high temperatures in Tennessee prompted a return to boots.  Renegade sent out new boots for both ponies and let me try out the new Vipers!  The Vipers are a solid improvement on the already great Renegades.  They fit more snugly, due to a “V” in the front center (rather than the overlapping center panel of the originals) and the heel cup is closed rather than ventilated which keeps debris from getting caught in the padding and makes them easier to clean.  The only way to get the Vipers at this point is to call Renegade and ask – which is totally worth doing in my opinion.  Renegade is also incredibly helpful in terms of getting the best fit for your horse and trouble shooting.  www.renegadehoofboots.com
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As to “protective headgear” – if we’re talking about riding helmets, I’m guilty as charged.  In the summer months I ride with a big, wide brimmed straw hat to protect myself from skin cancer and heat stroke.  In cold weather I wear a wool hat that covers my ears and keeps my head warm.  In January I took a fall, and yes, I did get a bit of a concussion.  I also fractured two vertebrae and tore some muscles – needing to use a walker just to visit the loo for over a week.  For 3 1/2 weeks I was blessed by other people being willing to care for me and for the herd while I healed.  Accidents happen.  That’s life!  In late July I was walking across a field after dark, tripped on a brush hog, got another concussion and needed 4 stitches in my left eyebrow.  I’m not about to start wearing protective head gear every time I walk across a pasture.  A year ago October I spent the night in a grain silo that had (unbeknownst to me) been used to store gopher bait.  I woke up very sick in the morning, thought it was the flu and thus didn’t leave the grain silo (except to go throw up!) If somebody hadn’t noticed that he hadn’t seen me out on the road with my ponies as planned and come looking for me I probably wouldn’t be alive and writing this today.
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So – what would happen to the horses if something happened to me?  I carry a basic survival kit on my person, Not in a saddle bag where it could disappear with the ponies.  My cell ‘phone, ID, money, camera, signal mirror, knife, compass, maps, etc are in the bag I wear around my waist.  If I were found dead or unconscious, whoever found me would be able to figure out who I am and know who to notify to figure things out from there.  Saint Finehorn actually belongs to my boon companion, Gryph Wulfkil, who is in circus school up in Brattleboro, Vermont these days and she’d take responsibility for the herd if it came to that.  Frankly, the average American diet is more dangerous that what I’m doing and we’re all taking a huge risk every time we get into an automobile – but we take those things largely for granted.  Sometimes bad things happen – but most of the time they don’t!  Personally, I think the belief that everything and everybody is supposed to be safe and secure all the time is a major and limiting handicap in the living of a fulfilling and passionate life.  We’re all going to die of something, sometime – we don’t have any control over that.  In the meantime, let’s focus on all the wonders and blessings of today!
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Change of Perspective

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I am writing tonight from the basement of my parent’s house in Greenville, NY.  No, the Journey isn’t over, but I had a chance to come home (with the ponies) for a family reunion and a period of rest (and my mom’s amazing cooking) before the last leg of the ride and I went for it.  As it turns out, I haven’t been doing a whole lot of resting, but the ponies are ecstatic to be grazing the yard and munching on the apples growing on 3 trees (they’ve also managed to consume all of the sunflowers!)  Due to the “family reunion” part of this layover I am behind on all correspondence and this will be a brief post, but at the very least I wanted to let you all know where I am and how it’s been going.
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I’ve been thinking a lot lately about Centaurs.  In Greek Mythology,  “Centaur” refers to a being which is half human and half horse but there is also a line of thought which uses the Centaur as a metaphor for a horse and rider who are so closely attuned that they function as one being.  I’d always thought of this in terms of the horse’s will yielding to the rider’s mind but the human’s body giving itself over to the rhythms of the mount.  In other words, the human made the decisions but then worked to stay with the motions and center of balance of the equine so as not to interfere.  There’s certainly an element of that, but I’ve come to absolutely value the minds of my equine companions and also to realize that the synthesis and sympatico goes a whole lot deeper than I’d originally supposed.
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I’ve been really worried about Jesse James lately, to the point of wondering if it was reasonable to expect him to finish the Journey.  I’m also aware that I’m absolutely emotionally exhausted, Finehorn is bored and feeling under-appreciated and we’re all getting grumpy.  I’ve found myself riding along trying to find a way to rationalize quitting and simultaneously to “spin” that into some sort of success story.  I’ve felt like my blog posts are getting boring, my patience is wearing thin and my nerves are as frazzled as mr.James’ when the big trucks go roaring by on narrow roads.  I’ve been walking on the down hills to save Jesse’s knees and worrying about how slowly we’re travelling.  I’ve also started having a sneaking suspicion that I have no idea which of the three of us  any of these “symptoms” are coming from and who’s catching them – but it’s certain that they’re contagious.  We’re all of a piece at this point and the pieces are wearing out.  I haven’t been able to discern whether it was Jesse’s joints or my own that were the issue – was I using him as an excuse?  Was I projecting?  Was I being utterly stubborn at his expense?
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Last week I learned of a vet who is also an equine chiropractor.  Her name is Barb Allen and she’s out in Canandaigua, close to where I was, so I called her.  A week ago Saturday she came out to see the ponies.  She watched Jesse walk and trot, she ran her hands down the backs of both ponies, she asked a bunch of questions and she was ultimately very reassuring.  She reminded me that it’s completely normal to be exhausted as we near the end of an undertaking as epic as this one has been.  She reminded me that when we work hard our bodies wear out.  That’s a choice, and not necessarily a bad one.  She painted a word picture of a wiry old farmer, walking behind his mules with his plow, all of them thin and strong and keeping on despite the years.  Then contrasted that with today’s farmer, up on his giant, climate controlled tractor – and often suffering from obesity and heart disease.  Which is the healthier, saner choice?  Many of the Amish I’ve met have stuck with the old ways of farming – and not only are they healthy, they often seem happier as well.
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The day after Barb looked at the herd and pronounced them fit to travel on I noticed something amazing.  We were all happier, moving out better – it was a really good day.  I have to wonder how much of the difficulties we were experiencing had their roots in my brain.  The lifting of the worry and the guilt removed a psychic burden that literally let us move faster and easier physically!  The other great gift that followed from that meeting was learning that Barb was heading east on Monday with Two empty spots in her horse trailer.  Monday night the herd and I arrived “home” in Greenville and were welcomed by my parents.
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My dad especially was very glad to see me as he was in a lot of pain through his neck and shoulders.  I worked on him a little bit before dinner (for those of you who don’t know, I’m a massage therapist as well as a Long Rider) and then again after he’d had a hot shower to relax his muscles.  That was when I realized that we had a more serious problem.  Two ounces of pressure at one point on his neck had him just about levitating.  Ouch!  I suspected a pinched nerve and suggested an ice pack and a visit to the Chiropractor in the morning.  I was up early for the drive to town and blessings on Dr. Root, he made time.  The plan had been for mom and dad to drive down to NYC that day, pick up my sister and her family at Newark, attend two Broadway musicals in 24 hours and return to Greenville by 10pm the next night.  My plan was to chill out with the ponies and thoroughly enjoy the peace and quiet!
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Well, somehow dad and I wound up trading places!  I can’t say I was too terribly upset.  Two hours after the decision was made I was driving a minivan Southbound, mom riding shotgun and navigating.  I really haven’t driven much in the past four years and I’ve got to say I was ridiculously proud of myself for handling not only a detour for construction, but circling Newark as we waited for the plane And NYC rush hour traffic!  We got to “Cinderella” (the first musical) with 15 minutes to spare, Thai food for dinner after the show and a peaceful night at Hephzibah house – a guest house built in 1882 and still feeling very much of another age.  Wednesday I had the chance to visit with a friend of mine I haven’t seen in 3 years (the tour included incredible gourmet doughnuts and the oldest Irish pub in the USA – it didn’t allow women in until the 1970’s – tho I wasn’t terribly disappointed that the place serving the octopus balls was closed!)  That afternoon we got to see “Matilda” – from a story by Roald Dahl – another brilliant show.  Did I mention that I have three nieces, one of whom aspires to a career as an actress?
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Lots of walking, lots of people, great vendor food, the subway during rush hour, lugging heavy bags 8 blocks to retrieve the minivan and a long drive home where dad had kept watch over the ponies and was feeling much better.  The ponies were overtly glad to see me when I returned, which made me really happy – and they’re obviously feeling great.  It’s fun to see them cantering across the yard just for fun and the nieces, who have had almost zero experience with live horses up close and personal, are doing a great job of scratching their itches, feeding them treats and vitamins and letting them know they’re adored.  It’s good to be home, even if it’s only a brief hiatus before we complete the ride.

mom grew this gigantic Hibiscus just for me!

mom grew this gigantic Hibiscus just for me!

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NY state of mind

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It’s a strange thing to say that returning to the state of New York feels like coming home.  I said that recently to someone who replied, “See, you really are a New Yorker.”  I shook my head at that, I certainly don’t feel like “A New Yorker.”  First of all, that seems to imply The City – and the ponies and I are waaaaaaaayyyyy out west and decidedly rural.  Secondly, this feeling of comfort and familiarity will all too quickly yield to a desire to escape the inevitable long, cold, snowy winter – which is coming.  Yes, I know it’s only early September, but the Maple leaves are starting to turn and in the past few days the season has shifted – the air feels different – my very cells are warning me that it’s time to fly South!
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It’s been a gorgeous two weeks!  Great people, gardens burgeoning forth with all manner of fresh vegetables, apples falling off the trees offering themselves to the ponies.  I have to remind myself to take photographs because everything seems so “normal” – it’s hard to remember that it might not look like that to people in other parts of the country/world.  New Mexico looks normal to people who live there, Louisiana looks normal to people who live there, I happen to have spent a lot of time in New York so I kind of take it for granted.
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Most of the nights in Pennsylvania I spent happily camping – late summer hammock bliss.  Most of the nights in New York I’ve been invited in to people’s homes.  There have been two lovely exceptions to this.  One night I gypsy camped (read: trespassing) beside a lovely pond in a forest belonging to a logging company.  The ponies grazed a hay field that had been baled for the last time this season and the deer objected vociferously to my presence in their territory.  The neighbors came with pizza, wings and blackberry pie – yummy!  The other stop was in a palatial old barn – a paddock for the ponies and electricity and a fridge(!) for me.  I slung my hammock and we took a rest day (visited by reporters from two local papers).  We were guided to and from the barn on beautiful wooded trails by Annie and Flicka – it’s such a treat to get to ride on trails once in a while!
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Last week we stopped at an Amish farrier to have the ponies’ hooves trimmed.  He did a great job and said that their feet were in really good shape.  Jesse had a chance to check out an Amish buggy up close and personal for the first time and he also continued his forays into interspecies communication by befriending a pig.  I’m really sorry I didn’t get a photo of him when he was actually grooming the pig – nuzzling right between the shoulder blades, which I imagine must be a tough itch to scratch in pig world.  Finehorn looked on with disdain.  We were there for two hours (had to wait our turn) so I took her packs off which she did appreciate, tho I’m sure she would have liked the saddle off as well.
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Finehorn has been having real issues with other equines lately.  She’s extremely attached to mr.James but hasn’t even been willing to be civil to any other horses we’ve met.  She and Flicka had it in for one another (Flicka was making eyes at Jesse, who wasn’t immune to her charms) and she even tried to start something with Kit the Percheron mare she was introduced to back at Strawn’s.  I’m not sure when this started as she wasn’t like this back in Tennessee at Meriwood farms, but it’s certainly become a trend.  Then Friday she met a horse that she actually treated with respect!  This was Prince, a big black Percheron gelding at Al-Ma-Ja farm.  I’d wanted to get a photo of the two draft horses together (Fjords are a draft breed, despite being pony sized) and she was actually quite polite about the process.  Jesse James whickered nervously through the whole process until I finally brought him over to join the conversation, much to his relief.
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Today I spoke with the “adventure trails and guiding” class at Houghton College.  I talked about tethering versus high lining and the ponies helped demonstrate.  We covered camping with horses in desert, mountain and suburban environments and the sort of horse that does well on a long ride.  I tried my best to be informative and entertaining, but the ponies absolutely stole the show.  They really don’t like being ignored and were their usual funny, charming selves.  I think my favorite moment was when they discovered the big mirrors!  Houghton is a Christian liberal arts college with a top notch equestrian program, mostly focused on eventing.  Jesse and Finehorn looked decidedly out of place among the big warmbloods in the stalls.  There are several arenas (we were in the indoor arena as the weather was drizzly today) along with extensive trails and a cross-country course.  Tomorrow at 8am I’ll have an audience as I pack up – and a mounted escort as far as Fillmore.  We’ll be riding the Greenway north from here for at least 35 miles – really excited about that!
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And for those of you not on facebook, this article recently came out in the Jamestown paper, enjoy!  http://www.post-journal.com/page/content.detail/id/627175/Woman-Riding-Horse-Across-Country-On-25-Month-Long-Trip-Stops-In-Clymer.html
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Photos by Brandie Gitchel

I was happily on my way to Houghton yesterday when I realized that I wasn’t where I thought I was!  Hot and humid and an ambitious amount of miles to cover even without getting lost – I absolutely should have had my compass around my neck (and didn’t).  I was passing a driveway when I heard a woman on a lawnmower calling into the house – “come out and look – horses!”  I pulled into the driveway so the ponies could say hello – good call!  Water and apples and graze and adoration for the ponies, lunch and a sorting of the maps for me.  A&MJ, with whom I’d stayed the night before, had offered to bring some of their lovely hay (and the packs) to Houghton College for the ponies (we’re here for a long weekend and I’ll be talking to the “Adventure Trails” class on Tuesday afternoon) so I called them and let them know that I’d gotten lost, that we were 15 miles from Houghton at 2pm and the ponies were dragging.  They hooked up their trailer and came to the rescue.  Meanwhile Brandie was busy with her camera…
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Photos by Mike Hutten

Mike took these as I was riding away from Hog Shed Pottery Studio where we enjoyed a day of comfortable accommodations and delicious, nutritious food.  Finehorn was delighted  to realize that the packs would be following via vehicle.  The recent rest days have had a positive effect on the herd and the Rhydr – increased enthusiasm and decreased grumpiness!  The apples growing on trees along the road with great frequency are helping as well – tho the Maple leaves are already starting to turn… DSC_8332 DSC_8333 DSC_8334 DSC_8335

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some days are better than others

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The herd and I crossed into New York on a hike and bike trail that used to be a railroad.  It was absolutely lovely.  There was no traffic, the footing was perfect, there was shade and the apple trees provided ample snacking.  I saw one bicycle and had to open (and close) two gates.  Ponies and I Very enthused about the bike trail idea!
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Some road riding brought us from the bike trail to a small dairy farm where we’d been invited to spend the night.  Ponies went out with the heifers, I had a comfortable room upstairs and there were plenty of fresh veggies for dinner along with interesting conversation that lasted past midnight.  The next day included a trip to Clymer to the vet clinic for wormer for the ponies and some meds for mr.James who is feeling his age and the miles.  Later we went up to Sherman to the book store (happy me!) where I met some lovely people and picked out a few paperbacks (since I was completely out of reading material that didn’t require electricity – in my world that’s kind of like being completely out of food!)  The next day I was surprised and delighted to learn that a dentist (Dr.Johnson up in Mayville) had agreed to see me gratis on his lunch break!  Two cavities filled quick and painless – so grateful as I’d really hate to lose my teeth as a result of this Journey I’m on!  A few more cavities to go, but those were the worst ones.  Feeling pretty good about being back in New York!
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Today the ponies and I were feeling well fed and well rested and well taken care of and ready to move on.  I’d mapped out a route of bike trails and snowmobile trails and was really excited about the ride ahead.  The direct road to Sherman had recently been graveled and besides hoof issues there was the concern that small rocks being tossed up by vehicles speeding by and hitting the ponies might not the best thing for a horse already not keen on traffic.  I found the first section of bike trail and it was lovely.  But the second section was behind a locked gate with private property signs.  I sighed and headed west towards the snowmobile trail marked on the map I’d been given.  A man in a van stopped to say hello and warned me that the route I was looking for wasn’t there.  I found a farm road heading in the right general direction and followed that.  Wound up wandering around in the woods, getting lost and coming out (I eventually discovered) back on the road I’d left two hours before.  Argh!  The lesson of the day was that snowmobile trails in summer look a lot like corn fields!  Road riding on grumpy ponies was the order of the day.
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Eventually, 5 1/2 hours after leaving the dairy farm, it was time to call it a day.  We’d covered about 4 miles of actual distance towards our goal!  I listened to the little voice in my head and turned in a driveway following a small car which had just turned off the road.  The ponies and I were made very welcome and I subsequently learned that my hosts are part of the same church family as the couple I’d left this morning.  I’m now showered, fed, laundered and in a bed!  Great campfire this evening, culminating in S’mores.
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All’s well that ends well and I learned something today – which is always a good thing.
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Living with the Herd

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A few mornings ago, Finehorn woke up feeling a bit glum.  I went over to talk to her and it turns out she’s missing Gryph.   For those of you new to the Journey, Gryph is Finehorn’s personal human and the only one who can actually ride her.  Gryph was with us for the first 5 months and then returned for November and December of 2012.  I was missing Gryph myself that morning and so I commiserated with Finehorn, scratching her neck and shoulders and talking to her for awhile.  Finehorn reached around with her nose and starting nuzzling my leg, no teeth involved, just her funny nose “grooming” me back.  I haven’t told Finehorn yet, but Gryph was accepted into NECCA (circus school) up in Brattleboro, Vermont (a huge step in living her own dream!) and we’ll be passing within 30 miles of her in late September (which is close enough for a visit – happy pony!)  If you want to drop Gryph a note congratulating her on getting into circus school her e-mail is: diviinehammer@hotmail.com .
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I’ve been camping out a lot in Pennsylvania, it’s August and beautiful and even though the nights have been a bit chilly the days warm up quickly which is a luxury in my world.  Several nights ago I spent the night in an old, abandoned double corn crib.  The ponies were tethered outside on the strip of long grass between the corn crib and the soy beans.  The farmers brought water and oats in the evening and warned me that it was going to get cold.  I’ve still got my summer fleece blanket, so I made my bed carefully, layering the 3 wool saddle blankets and the wizard’s cloak (or manty, the cotton drop cloth that covers and secures the packs on Finehorn) and wrapping the whole bedroll up in Tyvek to hold in my body heat.  Jesse came in to inspect my camp and get his shoulders scratched and I made a tasty dinner of Knorr cheddar broccoli rice with tuna and my mom’s dehydrated swiss chard and tomatoes.
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That night, after it got dark, the coyotes started in singing with lots of high yipping and not so much howl as I’ve heard in other parts of the country.  Mr.James worked his way carefully through the brambles beside the crib to place himself between me and the coyotes – blessings on my brave protector!  In the morning one of the farmers came to check on me and brought hot coffee!  The ponies grazed as I packed up camp but even with the oats they weren’t so very excited about the day ahead.
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We are all getting tired, tho’ it is manifesting in different ways.  Finehorn, who has typically been very good about visiting with children and getting fussed over has started putting her head down like a furry triceratops and just grazing through them as if they’re not there.  She’s not being aggressive or stepping on anybody, but just sort of bulldozing through with her big face – ignoring anybody without a treat in their hand.  Jesse James is soldiering on but I can tell that the miles are getting to him.  I walk with him the first part of each day now while he gets warmed up and we’re only covering about 10 miles a day on average instead of 15.  For all his bravery about coyotes and bears his nerves have had enough of large machines rushing up the road at him and I’ve found that the best thing is to stay on the tiniest roads we can find and to get off and stand with him when large farm equipment and dump trucks come rumbling past.
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I am grateful for the solitude afforded by the recent trend of camping.  Much of the reason I wanted to embark upon this Journey was to “rediscover America” – to go slowly across the land and find out who is living here and take the time to talk with them.  I’ve learned about myself that this is more pleasant and productive when interspersed with times in the wilderness where I can be alone with the ponies and my own thoughts.  As we’ve come into more populated areas the stops along the road to chat have become more frequent and thus need to be shorter in duration because Finehorn is carrying 80-100# of dead weight which doesn’t come off until we stop for the day.   The other day we’d stopped to talk with a bunch of kids, and then another bunch, and then as the latest bunch were still trailing along after us waving and yelling “Good-bye” a man stopped his truck to talk.  I was a bit short with him, pointing out that we’d been stopping to talk quite a bit in the past hour and really needed to be making some miles.  Less than 1/2 a mile later my cell ‘phone rang.  Jesse doesn’t like it if I talk while I’m riding so I pulled into a driveway and determined to keep the call very short.  It was my dear Aunt and she was wonderfully understanding, but by the time we got off the ‘phone less than 5 minutes later we’d drawn an audience.
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The kids were fine, but then there was a man who got out of his truck and started asking questions in order to tell me how he’d do it instead.  For example, he asked how many miles I made in a day.  10-15.  “I’ve been thinking about doing this but I’d be doing 50-75 miles a day.”  I really ought to know better than to engage this type at all.  I need to learn to simply smile and say sometime vapid and polite and ride away.  Instead I pointed out that he’d be going through horses pretty quickly at that rate and I’d had these two with me the whole trip.  He started talking about historic times and people doing 1500 miles in a month (that’s 50 miles a day with no rest days).  At that point I simply replied that he’d been reading different history books than I had and attempted to return my attention to the kids.  He then said that he’d wanted to ride with me a ways (no horse in evidence – he’s thinking I’m going to wait for him to go fetch and saddle his horse?)  and offered a pasture for the night.  At this point, I wised up, made my excuses and left him spluttering in the road.
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CuChullain (of the Long Riders’ Guild) says that the historic daily average mileage of a long rider was 20 miles a day.  Recently that average has dropped to 11-15 miles a day, in large part because of these stops along the road to chat.  It’s been suggested that I make up a flyer to pass out with FAQs which would enable me to keep riding rather than stopping to answer questions.  I’ve thought about that but it just makes me sad.  If somebody is genuinely interested in the ride and/or the ponies it seems rude to brush them off with a piece of paper.  That’s the sort of non-communication that is hurting us as a people and I want no part of it.  On the other hand, I don’t think that gentleman and I were going to learn anything from one another so what was the point in making the ponies (not to mention myself) stand there?P1050095

Oh dear, this is turning into another manifestation of my exhaustion.  I’d set out to write a happy blog post about living with the herd.  I’d wanted to talk about the night the ponies nested right next to my tent, lying down to sleep and leaving two pony sized bowls in the grass in the morning.  About how Jesse (who hasn’t really even liked getting groomed) has suddenly gotten very happy about getting his neck and shoulders scratched, stretching his neck out like a great copper dragon and wriggling his lips in bliss when I use both hands to oblige him.  About finding a beautiful place to camp, just at dusk, stringing up my hammock in a lovely shady grove hidden from the roads and the ponies declining to join me because the ground all around is mucky and there’s much better grass up on the hills.  They are happy when I come to visit them and bring their Equerry’s Choice vitamins and some apples, but they’re not in any way interested in visiting me here in my camp.  That’s a little sad, but there will be other camps where we can hang out in closer proximity.  I love the moonlight through the trees casting dappled shadows on my hammock’s mosquito net as I drift off to the sound of too many frogs to count!
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The flowers along the roadside are lovely.  When I tire of picking blackberries for them (which they love, but not enough to brave the thorns) the ponies are munching the clover and chicory and vetch – but my favorite is the Jewelweed.  This plant is a natural antidote for poison ivy (works preventatively as well) and nettles and all sorts of skin irritations and the flowers are beautiful (coming in orange and yellow) but the best part is the little pods that hang down – like the one off the tip of my middle finger.  When you take one in your hand it explodes in this bizarrely squiggly way to release the seed (and the squiggly bit.)  The seed is edible (tho kind of small to make it an efficient food – you don’t eat the squiggly bit) but the sensation as it pops in my hand makes me feel like a little kid – and I never get tired of it. 😉

Jewelweed

Jewelweed

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Crossing the Beaver at Wampum

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I rode into Pennsylvania around noon on Saturday on quiet back roads shaded by trees.  There’s still a whole lot of corn growing in these parts, and soy beans, but also plenty of forest and wetlands.  Saturday afternoon a man on a tractor pulling a brush hog shut down his machine as I approached and started a conversation.

this brush hog was friendlier than the last

this brush hog was friendlier than the last

I wound up camping on his land, tethering the ponies and slinging up my hammock in a sort of tree cave hidden by the Arrborvitae.  The ponies drank from the pond and the trains whistled by with amazing frequency, muffled a bit by the greenery.  (I love the sound of trains – best lullaby.)  Rabbits and wild turkey came by and just as I was drifting off to sleep a deer coughed in discomfiture at my unexpected presence; the sound was close and he was pretty persistent about it, going on for a good 5 minutes!  In the morning I found the trail, about 15′ from my camp.  It seems that I was blocking the main path from forest to graze.  Oops!
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On Sunday I saw a sign for the North Country National Scenic Trail.  I saw the dotted line on my DeLorme atlas page and saw that it crossed the Beaver River at Wampum.  Happy day!  The trail was lovely, freshly mowed and didn’t look like it gets much use.  The ponies and I wound through woods and beside meadows, crossing the occasional small bridge and listening to the roar of highway traffic (at first) and later the mosquito whine of off-road motorcycles and ATVs.  Part way through the morning at a road crossing I saw a sign proclaiming the trail to be for hikers and other foot traffic only “to ensure a premier hiking experience” but since I saw no hikers and was following tire tracks most of the time I decided that the ponies were on foot and if necessary I could dismount and walk as well.
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At one point we came up on an area near an ATV campground and stopped and stepped off the trail just in time to keep from being run down by 4 motorcyclists covered in mud, their helmets so splattered that it’s probably no surprise that they didn’t even notice me standing 3′ off the trail.  After that we took the road, stopping briefly at a trailer to ask directions.  The ponies were offered corn and nectarines which they enjoyed until the man who was feeding Jesse, with absolutely no warning or provocation, smacked him right on the nose!  I hadn’t been talking politics, Honest! but as he started ranting about how “we” need to take “our” country back from the liberals (he was being pretty racist into the bargain) and how I shouldn’t go into New Castle without a gun (I hadn’t planned on going into New Castle at all… )  I flipped Finehorn’s rope up over his head and (thinking that it would be a sad country indeed if it were made up entirely of his kind) we made our escape into Wampum where the ponies and I met very nice people of various colors and stopped for a quick bite of lunch before crossing the Beaver River on a nice wide cement bridge.
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We picked up the trail on the other side of the river after a brief section of road riding.  The trail through the woods was quiet and cool in the afternoon sun and I was thinking about Civil Disobedience and the Commons and wondering if using an underused pedestrian foot trail for equestrian through travel qualified when we came to an obstacle.  It was a creek in a deep sort of ravine with a bridge across it.  The ponies are very good about crossing bridges of all sorts but this one had railings too narrow and tall to allow Finehorn to navigate while wearing her packs.  Rather than unload her, we turned around and I started scouting for an alternate route and came upon an ATV track heading in a viable direction.  Listening carefully, I followed the trail down hill until it came out into a meadow behind a house.  As we crossed a flat metal bridge across the creek, heading towards the road, a man came out of the house.  He was friendly and helped me figure out where I was on the map related to the roads and then said that we were welcome to camp in the back meadow if it wasn’t too early in the day to stop.  There was a spacious tent already there and plenty of grass for the ponies and my choice of a cool swimming pool or a hot tub (or both if I so desired.;-))
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The ponies wasted no time in accepting the offer, chowing down on the grass like I’d been starving them and I very much appreciated the chicken soup and apple pie delivered to the tent later that afternoon.  The hot tub did my muscles a world of good last night and today I’ve taken some time to get organized and caught up on chores.  Pennsylvania: so far, so good!
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Pennsylvania here I come!

P1040954 My brain likes numbers.  For instance, this is my 136th blog post.  I’ve got 237 followers on the blog and suddenly 603 on facebook!  I’ve been on the trail 22 months and have 13 weeks before I’m due in Minot, Maine.  The blog has received 61,368 hits (the most in one day has been 490) and we’re up to 103 countries! (Africa is a bit underrepresented, if anybody has connections to spread the word there ;-).)  Tomorrow I’ll be entering Pennsylvania, state #11.  I find these sorts of numbers very reassuring because they keep progressing, quickly or slowly, in a direction that I consider to be positive.  However, they really don’t tell much of the story.  They don’t have anything to do with life is like.  So – what’s going on?

home for three rainy days - perfect!

home for three rainy days – perfect!

Sunday was a good day, perfect weather, ponies fresh and feeling good.  My stitches came out in the morning, Finehorn’s feet and Jesse’s back are doing really well and packing went smoothly.  (One side note regarding Jesse’s rainrot: the thing that seems to have solved the problem once and for all was a tip I got from an Amish farrier and healer (Nate Miller) back in Kentucky – I fed Jesse 1/2 tsp. cream of tartar (hidden in a treat) every day for a week and washed his back with a 50% apple cider vinegar solution daily as well.  By the end of the week his back was 100% back to normal, no more bumpiness under the hair – much rejoicing!) P1040970 Coming into Holmesville I discovered a hitching rail outside of the gas station and ran in to grab a coffee and an egg sandwich.  The ponies were not amused, pointing out that there was perfectly good grass in the park next door.  I took the hint and we went over there for breakfast.  As we were heading in the direction of the “bike and buggy” trail I’d heard about a truck pulled up and a couple got out and asked the usual questions.  Turns out they knew a woman named Pam Kline who lives not far away and had done a similar Journey 20 years ago.  They invited me back to their place, Windy Hill Farm, where they train and sell horses (they’ve got about 90!) but since I’d only come 4 miles and they were behind me I decided to press on.  They were super encouraging and still wanted to help so they posted about my Journey to their 5000 facebook friends asking if anybody along my route could help with lodging and/or route finding as I came through their area.  I’ve since been contacted by quite a few lovely, friendly people and have several new stops planned along the route And it’s looking like a group of 4H kids who work with rescue horses up in Maine will be coming to Minot to ride in the parade!  Social networking in action – wow!  And it speaks volumes about the reputation of Windy Hill Farm that they have a community like that.  I guess it goes to show you never know who you’ll meet by the side of the road. 😉 P1040974 The bike and buggy trail was brilliant!  Well used by both categories with one lane devoted to each (I guess walkers get to take their pick?) the 5 miles were pleasant and easy and the ponies were delighted.  We came out in Fredericksburg and I suddenly realized I had no idea how to get from wherever we’d come out (the trail isn’t on my map) and Salt Creek Road.  No problem – along came 4 Amish men on bicycles, as if they’d been expecting me.  Not only did they put me back on course, two of them had biked a month from California to Oregon last summer And they were part of the family I’d been planning to stay with two days hence.  Happy meeting and I proceeded with more confidence.  Not much farther on I was hailed by a family who offered water, carrots and apples for the ponies as we chatted.  I continued on and about 20 minutes later a van pulled up ahead of me and that same family got out, carrying a bag.  The kids had decided that since they’d fed the ponies it was only fair that they offered me some food as well and they’d packed a picnic for my dinner! P1040979 As I rode along I passed a large Amish house with a bunch of kids playing outside.  As I rode up the driveway the kids giggled, squealed and scattered.  Eventually a few women came out and I learned that I was heading in the wrong direction from town to find the Amish farrier I’d been told about as a possible place to stay.  At the next house some boys said that I was welcome to stay in the school yard across the street.  School was out for summer, there was plenty of good graze for the ponies plus a pump for water and an outhouse – perfect!  They loaned me a water pail for the herd, I rode up next to the school and untacked the ponies under a tree.  Soon I had an audience – about a dozen kids – who sat in the shade of the school and watched in silence as I set up camp.  Finally everything was done and the ponies were grazing so I sat down in the grass and I watched them back.  Eventually questions started flowing both directions and we had a good visit.  Adults started showing up as well with more questions and answers – lovely peaceful evening in a really beautiful spot.  I was given a piece of yummy fruit pizza as well as fresh eggs and sweet rolls for breakfast – and a list of names and addresses to send postcards to when I arrive in Maine. 😉 P1040976 The next day I continues on towards Pioneer Equipment, an Amish company which makes quality horse-drawn farm implements, wagons, buggies, etc.  The ponies were turned out in a big pasture and I was invited in for dinner, asked numerous questions and shown to the comfortable guest room.  The hot shower felt great and I fell asleep quickly.  Several hours later I woke up feeling sick.  By morning I was empty and went out to let my hostess know what was going on and ask if I might stay a day while I recovered.  She graciously agreed and I disappeared for the rest of the day, sleeping most of the time and emerging once in late afternoon, weak as a kitten, for a bit of yogurt and a few saltines.  It was a blessing to be left utterly alone in a quiet room with attached bath – so grateful not to have been camping right at that moment.  The following morning I was given a tour of the factory where everything is crafted from raw materials sourced as locally as possible.  It was fascinating to see wheels being constructed and my guide was very patient with my many, many questions.
P1040987   P1040986 P1040983   P1040982 Later in the parking lot a big truck pulled up and the driver recognized me and called me by name.  Turns out he’s somebody I bought hay from when I was staying at Meriwood Farm back in Tennessee – what are the odds of that!?! P1040984 Fast forward a few days and you’ll find me picking up my mail in Minerva (including my New York DeLorme Atlas and Equerry’s Choice horse vitamins), grabbing a few supplies at the store and visiting Lana Bella Alpaca Farm.  I’ve had an alpaca scarf along the whole Journey – it’s warm and fuzzy and waterproof and I love it.  It was great visiting with the alpaca herd and getting to ask all sorts of questions (turnabout’s fair play).  I was given a pair of socks to test and I’ll be letting you know how that goes in the next weeks.  There’s more to tell, but for now I’m up way past my bedtime and tomorrow I’m en route to the Pennsylvania border.  There’s a lot of fracking in this area which means large gas and oil trucks on small roads and since my dear mr.James is having rather extreme issues with large trucks lately we’re getting trailered out of the affected area rather than risk becoming a fracking casualty.
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