“What should I pack?” – Part 1

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One of the things that I really appreciate about the Long Riders’ Guild is the tradition of passing down the hard won wisdom of the trail.  This is balanced against the reality that each of us rides our own ride, in our own way.  My ride (and what I’ve packed) has been different when I’ve been solo versus when I’ve been accompanied by Gryph or Katie – when I’ve been in Wilderness versus more populated areas – seasons and terrains – and I’m very aware that, as a woman travelling solo across the USA in this day and age,  in many ways I’ve got it easy!  I was recently contacted on facebook by a woman who is planning a ride with her two horses from Lebanon, TN to Kingsville, TX starting this coming August.  She’s asked me for advice, specifically about what to bring, and I’ve decided to go ahead and make a blog post or two out of it.  The answer varies by time of year and terrain so I’m going to try and fill in a bit of the thought process as well as the specific items currently in my packs.
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My least favorite part of the day is loading and balancing the packs.  It’s an exact science – a few ounces difference from one side to the other really doesn’t sound like that much but over the course of a day, subjected to the constant movement of a pack pony, those few ounces will cause your packs to shift in the direction of the extra weight.  This creates difficulty for your faithful pack animal and will lead to soreness and eventual saddle sores, not to mention attitude problems.  The first month out Gryph and I repacked Finehorn EVERY SINGLE DAY (at Least once!)  This was a royal pain in the neck and didn’t do good things for Our attitudes, but the alternative was worse.  Since then I’ve gotten pretty good at balancing the packs by hand (at first we couldn’t find a suitable light weight scale and by the time we did we didn’t need it.)  Finehorn has also gotten a lot smarter about things – if I don’t have them balanced correctly she’ll let me know.  One recent morning I’d been distracted and didn’t get it right.  As we got started she came up alongside mr.James and gave me “the look”.  Since we’d just had a couple of days off and been slack-packed a few days before that I wrote it off as Monday morning grumpies and ignored her.  She then proceeded to buck them off.  Smart pony protecting herself.  I didn’t chastise her, just did a better job repacking and she carried them happily for the rest of the day.
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What I’ve learned about hand weighing packs:  Pick each of the two bags up separately in Exactly the same way.  If they’re small enough to pick up with one hand, use the same hand.  My big bags I set side-by-side, pick one up with both hands, stand up straight and count to three, put it down, step over to the second bag and repeat the process.  Exactly.  Most everybody on the planet has one arm stronger than the other and your muscles will lie to you.  My food bags I use one hand, but the same basic process.  Everything has to be paired, and the balancing isn’t only side to side but also front to back.  The heavier things should be closer to the ground; a top heavy pack is more prone to shift and cause problems.  Don’t put hard edges or pokey things in proximity to your pack animal – even through saddle pads.  Also – this is a bad time to have people talking to you!  In my world that generally leads to me needing to re-do the packs at some point during the day (see above).  It’s important to be centered and focussed and 100% present.
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Less is more.  Every thing you bring has to be packed up Every Day.  A Long Ride pack pony should be carrying 100 pounds or less.  You will meet “experienced packers” who will tell you how much more weight a pack horse can carry.  If they haven’t done at least 500 miles in a stretch – ignore them.  (That’s Excellent advice from the LRG!)  Aim for less than 100#,  you’ll pick up things along the way.  The more you know the less you need and things that serve multiple functions are your friends.  Between Lebanon, TN and the King Ranch you’re not going to be in any Wilderness – there will be places to pick up things that you need along the way.  This is especially true in terms of first aid, tack repair and “just-in-case” extras.  Katie Cooper is riding from Mississippi to Arizona on her wonderful mule Sir Walter – and he’s carrying her packs as well as her self.  (Talk about downsizing – she puts me to shame! She also weighs about 100# less than I do, so she had a head start ;-).) www.muletriptalk.blogspot.com  Katie started her blog several months before she started her ride and it might be useful to you to see what she went through in terms of planning…
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I think it’s easiest to break this down into categories.  So – what’s important?  Personally, I place a high premium on a good night’s sleep.  I tried sleeping on the saddle pads and wadding up a sweater as a pillow.  I woke up stiff and sore every morning and it got old fast!  At this time of year my bedroll consists of a Thermarest self-inflating mattress, a twin sized sheet, a small fleece blanket and a full sized pillow.  The pillow takes up space in the pack without adding much weight which is an asset in terms of the way I’m packing.  In the cold months I was carrying a twin sized down comforter in a duvet cover made by my niece, Tasha.  My original sleeping  bag was about 25 years old and when the zipper went last fall I decided to replace it.  The comforter was $70 – a comparable warmth sleeping bag starts at $200 – no brainer.  I still use the saddle pads under me (putting them under the thermarest, which also helps protect it) – and on cooler nights I use my wool saddle blankets over me (they’re not big, it takes both to cover me!)  If you’re heading out in August it’ll be HOT for several months – only carry what you need for those months during those months – add warmer layers later, as you actually need them!
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Also on the subject of sleep – I’m carrying a MSR Mutha Hubba tent.  It’s technically a 3 person tent, but is the perfect size for me and my gear.  My tent weighs 8# and even buying it “gently used” it was a significant decision in terms of price and weight.  The purpose of a tent is to protect you from weather, mostly the wet and windy sorts.  It also works pretty well against bugs and snakes.  Using the tent adds an hour to my day – and I’ve slept in it less than 1/3 of the nights thus far.  In the desert, when it was too cool for rattlers to be out, I slept under the stars and loved it.  Many nights I’ve been invited into homes or been offered the use of a hay barn or a camper or some other place to get out of the weather.  I have the option of a sweet hammock with a mosquito net that weighs just over a pound and will keep me dry if i rig a tarp over it and part of me thinks I really should send the tent back for the summer.  But!  Last month when I spent two nights and a day waiting out a serious storm with thunder and lightning and wind and heavy rain – I really appreciated my serious tent that kept me dry and cozy!  A tent that won’t do that isn’t worth its weight.
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Still on the subject of sleeping comfortably (and staying warm enough) let’s talk about tarps.  I carry a 9′ square of Tyvek.  Tyvek is a super strong and totally waterproof material that is used mostly in construction as a vapor barrier.  It’s like thick slick paper that doesn’t tear.  It’s lighter than anything else I can afford, works better and lasts longer than those blue tarps from Walmart.  I don’t use a ground cloth under my tent.  I’m careful where I set my tent up (to avoid abrasion, tears or a bumpy bed) and I’ve learned that if an edge of the ground cloth is peeking out from under my tent it’ll catch and funnel the rain.  Pick a spot that’s higher than the surrounding ground.  The soft smooth spot that looks like the obvious first choice is often where rain makes puddles!  I usually wrap the Tyvek around my tack at night to keep it dry – but on cold nights when my bed roll isn’t quite up to the task I’ll wrap myself up in the Tyvek like a burrito and it’ll hold in my body heat and keep me at least 15*F warmer.  The downside is condensation.  If you get too warm and start to sweat you’ll wake up in a wet bed!  The trick to keeping warm is trapping your own body heat.  Wool socks, gloves, hat and scarf don’t weigh much but make a huge difference on a cold night.  Wearing whatever dry layers you have makes more sense on the occasional cold night than packing a heavier bedroll than you generally need.  Wool and silk will help keep you warm even when it’s wet; cotton and down won’t.  Packing one or two pairs of those little “foot warmers” that you tear out of their cellophane wrappers and shake to activate is smart.  Put one in each sock right under the ball of your foot and it’ll keep your whole body warmer.  Be sure to buy the ones that last 8 hours or longer.
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the up side of ebb tide

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Last night as I was filling water troughs and buckets for 15 horses and 17 goats I was on the ‘phone with my folks and my mom said “I think we will all breathe a collective sigh of relief when you and the ponies are back on the road again.”  I think that’s going to be especially true for my dear Jesse James.  A month ago the ponies and I were all having some second thoughts about this whole adventure.  It felt like we were dragging from rest day to rest day in a grueling test of endurance.  I was getting grumpy and unfriendly which isn’t a good policy when one is constantly dependent upon the mercies of strangers.  Jesse was making ugly faces when faced with a camera, Finehorn was lagging slower and slower, making ponying her a chore – and she was doing serious cumulative damage to my right shoulder every time she jerked her head around to snap at a horse fly.  We weren’t having fun, the exhaustion was bone deep and I somehow didn’t feel like I had much of a choice.  “But I have promises to keep, and miles to go before I sleep.”
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This morning when I went out to doctor mr.James and turn the ponies out into the pasture for the day I was struck by how good and strong and healthy they both look.  Jesse’s back has been improving daily and today I really searched and could find no remaining scurf.    There’s one remaining scab that, while it’s shrunk from the size of a 50 cent piece to less than a narrow dime, isn’t quite ready to let go – that’s all we’re waiting for.  Today we had a big thunderstorm with enough rain to bring on the rain rot again if he’s going to go that way – but I’m feeling hopeful.   Which is the other big change in reality brought about by our enforced rest stop – the ponies aren’t the only ones feeling better and stronger and ready to ride again.  When I got to Lucy’s two weeks and few days ago I was sick, I was tired, I was afraid that the Journey was over – at least for this year.  I couldn’t imagine what stopping would look like but I honestly didn’t think I had the fortitude to finish.
Now I do.
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It’s amazing sometimes how much it helps to feel like I have a choice – choices!   I’ve had an offer of a place to live which made stopping for awhile a real and positive option.  I’ve had offers of help finding another suitable horse to continue on if Jesse needed a prolonged break.  I’ve had words of support from people letting me know that they believe in me No Matter What I decide is the best option – and if the ponies and I have had enough then it’s Really OK to stop.  The Long Riders’ Guild has been there for me in wonderful and encouraging ways – with practical advice, personal commiseration and a grand historical perspective.  It’s so much easier to think clearly when I’m not feeling like a loser in a trap of my own making.  And it turns out that it wasn’t as bad as all that – the herd and I just needed a bit of grace and time and space in which to heal and recover some energy and enthusiasm for the Journey yet ahead of us.
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So – a few of the highlights of my time here at Meriwood Farm have included a visit from Nancy, a reporter from the Advocate Newspaper, who did a lovely story focussing on how Lucy Sikes Karnes, my first riding instructor, helped plant the early seeds (ages 5-12) of this Journey and our fortuitous reunion after 35+ years.
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I decided that there was enough fresh goat’s milk in the fridge that I could experiment with making cheese, something I’ve wanted to learn for many years.  I went on line and found a very simple style of recipe requiring only milk, lemons, cheese cloth and a thermometer (and a stainless steel pot and a wooden spoon).  I squeezed a cup of fresh lemon juice, brought the milk up to 180*F, stirred them together and waited for the promised curdling.  Ummm – yeah – two more lemons – oh dear – have I wasted a whole gallon of milk?  and 7 lemons?  I poured it into the cheesecloth waiting in the colander, thinking all was lost, and lo and behold – there were solids accumulating!
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I rigged the cheesecloth wrapped lump so that it could drain, washed the dishes, went off to read for awhile – and returned to find that my precarious rigging had toppled.  I set it all up again, not sure whether to restart the drip dry time – wishing I had an experienced cheese maker to call – deciding to split the difference.  The resulting cheese had very good flavor, but was Not creamy – the adjective that came to mind was “dusty” – ok – not as bad as all that – but not something to spread on a cracker.
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Today I cooked up some pasta and saute’d chicken, mushrooms, garlic, grape tomatos and basil in butter, mixed it all up with the goat cheese and a bit of parm – et voila – dinner!
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Other highlights of the past two weeks have been 4 baby bunnies who were rescued when the lawnmower took the top off their nest and the big brindle (American Staffordshire Terrier) dog brought them to Lucy.  They’re doing well and have graduated from formula in an eye dropper to eating cheerios and apples and alfalfa and will be ready for rehoming in a week or so.
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And then there was the arrival of Agatha – Munchkin’s first kid and a beauty at 5#.  She’s 1/4 Saanen and 3/4 Nigerian and within an hour of her birth was not only nursing but bouncing around playing – trying to get her legs figured out in the deep straw.  Too cute.
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One other random note – Sassafrass – I grew up with this tree back in East Texas – the root makes a grand tea in Springtime – (and sarsasparilla – aka root beer ;-)) – I’ve been asked a few times lately how to ID it and here it is, growing beside the driveway.  The flowers are honeysuckle, a vine and not part of the tree – they’re invasive and smell divine.  If you look at the leaves of the Sassafrass tree they come in three different shapes – all on the same branch!  The smell of the root is very distinctive as well – but harder to transmay on line.
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hot off the press

I’m working on another blog post – meanwhile, the following arrived this morning->

http://www.lawrencecountyadvocate.net/editionviewer/?Edition=5782a0f0-523f-48b0-9f03-d58d0361b4a9&Section=0

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the Gift of a Word

Several times when I’ve gone in to schools to speak with the kids I’ve been asked “What’s the best gift anyone has given you on this Journey?”  A few reporters have asked the same question.  It’s a hard one to answer and instead I’ll generally tell the story Jesus told about the widow who gave her last tuppence and how that gift had more value than large amounts given by the very wealthy.  Still not a very satisfying answer to the question – and the truth is that the answer at the top of my mind changes with my mood and situation.  I have received an abundance of gifts and kindnesses in the course of this Journey and my mind doesn’t naturally think in terms of superlatives: best, worst, funniest, hardest – yuck!
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The 25th of March, 2012 wasn’t my best day.  It started out well enough, waking to a beautiful sunrise on a secret little lake just South of Phoenix, the ponies munching contentedly and an egret fishing on the shore.  I looked at my map and decided to follow the broad sandy bed of the Gila River, thinking it would be a much nicer ride than the alternative pavement and traffic.  The first hour was beautiful and peaceful with good footing for the ponies on packed sand within sight of the river.  When the salt cedar got too thick I followed the ATV trail that matched the one on my map.  Things started to get a little surreal: half bicycles and dismembered baby dolls sticking up from the sand, the aftermath of floods lending a postapocalyptic feel to the terrain.  I was utterly alone, the only sounds of Civilization an occasional plane overhead and I called a friend on my cell ‘phone to try and dispell the spookiness.  It was getting hot.  Many hours later the ATV track deadended at a large cedar tree with a bunch of spent shotgun shells on the ground.  I looked at my map.  To the North I could see a housing development but couldn’t figure out how to get there from where I had landed.  It was a long disorienting way back, getting lost again even while trying to track myself in reverse!
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So much for urban Wilderness.  It was late afternoon and I returned to the pavement, more concerned with finding water and a place to stop for the night.  I stopped at an abandoned cow lot with lots of dried manure and big fans turning idly in the breeze but nobody answered when I knocked on the door of the house.  I continued on, following what looked to be the most direct route to a recreation area back along the Gila River.  I was riding on the sidewalk through a ritzy housing development where every house shared walls with its neighbors and the “yards” contained nothing but varying arrangements of rock, gravel, cement and cactus.  I didn’t think people would appreciate it if the ponies and I drank from their fountains.  It was rush hour for commuters coming home and people were sticking their smart ‘phones out of their windows and snapping photos as they drove by.  Nobody talked to me, nobody waved.  I felt like an exhibit on a not-so-fun-ride at Disney.  Not only was this not a pony friendly area, it didn’t even feel human friendly.
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I finally made it through the worst of the congestion, past a strip mall and on to where I could see some open country up ahead.  No water, but at least an end to the traffic and clutter of buildings.  I stopped to ask directions and learned that the road that had looked like a short cut on my map didn’t exist.  A man stopped and asked if he could take some photos and I said yes.  The sun went over the horizon.  I was tired and thirsty and worried about my ponies, wondering where in this crazy terrain I could find them a bit of comfort for the night after a 20 mile day.  A couple on bicycles stopped to see if they could help.  I was explaining my situation and the man with the camera was being really intrusive, using a big flash and going for strange angles.  I felt like he was trying to take photos of the inside of my nose and I finally asked him to stop.  He didn’t, replying that I’d said it was ok.  I said that I’d had enough and he needed to stop – Now.  He refused.  The couple on the bicycles watched as things escalated and I eventually (after warning him first) charged him with the ponies and threatened to break his expensive camera.  He wouldn’t back off until I finally was reduced to yelling that I bet he was the kind of man who, if a woman agreed to shake his hand, would figure that was licence to date rape her.  At that point he finally left.  I was shaking, embarrassed, angry and exhausted – and I still needed to find a place for the ponies to rest for the night.  Not my finest hour.
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Blessings on the bicycle couple.  They were still there after all that!  They took matters in hand, made a few ‘phone calls, got permission for me to bring the ponies back to the empty cow lot, found a bale of hay and were reassuringly calm and polite.  Surprisingly, after seeing me acting like a total psycho, they invited me back to their house for dinner and a shower and a bed for the night.  They even introduced me to their children! 😉
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Fast forward to February, 2013.  I’d made the difficult decision to leave Luna Jack behind, I was still feeling the effects of my tumble back in January, thunder and lightning and tornado watches were the new challenge (not to mention finding suitable bridges over ubiquitous water) and I received an e-mail from the woman who’d rescued me that night almost a year earlier.  She wrote of the positive impact I’d had on their family and introduced me to a Finnish word: Sisu, which she said I embodied, encouraging me to google it if I’d never heard of it before.  (I hadn’t, so I did!)
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According to Wikipedia: Sisu is a Finnish term loosely translated into English as strength of will, determination, perseverance, and acting rationally in the face of adversity. However, the word is widely considered to lack a proper translation into any other language. Sisu has been described as being integral to understanding Finnish Culture. However sisu is defined by a long-term element in it; it is not momentary courage, but the ability to sustain an action against the odds. Deciding on a course of action and then sticking to that decision against repeated failures is sisu. It is similar to equanimity, except the forbearance of sisu has a grimmer quality of stress management than the latter.  (there’s more – but you can look it up yourself if you’re interested)
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I am writing today from Lawrenceburg Tennessee.  In the wonderful serendipitous way of this Journey I am staying with the woman who was my very first riding instructor – I hadn’t seen nor heard of her in 35 years!  Jesse James had a severe allergic reaction to the iodine shampoo I was using to treat his rain rot and it’s looking like it’s going to be awhile before he’s ready to carry me on his back.  It’s been a difficult two weeks since I last posted a blog entry.  I’ve been worried about Jesse James and how to figure out and do what’s best for him, freaking out about my ability to make it to Minot by 8.November, stressing about finances, options, logistics, weather, time slipping away and the blog post that I wasn’t writing because I couldn’t figure out what to say.  I was afraid to open myself up to criticism by being honest about my current situation.  Then I remembered Sisu and the family in Arizona who believes in me, which reminded me of all the other people I’ve met on this Journey who have been so encouraging and kind.  It helped me to remember who I am and did a lot to drown out the few harsh and negative voices I’ve encountered.
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So – since quitting is not an option – what are the options?  It’s been suggested by several people that I find another horse to continue on with, leaving Jesse James at Meriwood Farms with LSK while he rests and recovers.  That doesn’t feel right to me, partly because of the difficulties of finding another suitable horse, partly because of herd dynamics – but mostly because I am committed to Jesse and Finehorn as “the herd” – they’ve come this far with me, the two of them are tightly bonded and I hate the thought of leaving either of them behind.  Another idea has been to postpone the finale for a year, finding a place to stop and rest and recover before heading north to Maine next spring (arrive 8.Nov. 2014) – which would bring us into Minot 60 years to the day from when Mesannie Wilkins left.  While this option isn’t 100% off the table, I’m afraid that I’d lose a lot of momentum, not only in terms of the Journey, but in terms of the blog and fb – and I worry about what that would do to the book I’m planning to write when the riding part of things is complete.  (Never mind the logistics of finding a place to go, figuring out how to get there and setting up a viable life for 9 months!)
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Which brings us to option #3:  Walking.   I’ve walked before.  My heart is not singing with joy at the prospect (and my feet are absolutely cringing) – it’s summer and it’s hot here and muggy and walking along the side of a road leading two horses isn’t the most fun I can imagine, but I can do it.  I’ve hiked 750 miles of the Appalachian Trail (admittedly 12 years ago) and this is a lot less mountainous and strenuous than that.  I’m still toying with the idea of leaving Jesse here to recover a bit more, heading out with Finehorn and having Jesse delivered by trailer in a couple of weeks or a month.  The downside of that is the stress of separation for the ponies; no way to explain to them that this is temporary.  I can keep doctoring Jesse while we’re travelling and he’ll heal just as quickly walking down the road as standing in a pasture – unfortunately I am honestly worried about a certain stripe of well meaning animal rights activist seeing his back and deciding that he’d be better off without me.  That sort of conversation can be time consuming at best and logic generally doesn’t enter into it.
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The past two weeks haven’t been entirely bad.  I’ve gotten to see jousting for the first time, had an introduction to falconry and learned to milk a goat.  I’ve reconnected with my first riding instructor and had a chance to get some badly needed rest.  The ponies and I have come over 3500 miles together, we’ve got around 1400 miles to go.  Even if we only cover 60 miles a week we’re still on track to reach Minot, Maine by 8.November.  Sisu.

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update and mail drop

Mr.James has come down with a case of rain rot and we’re needing to take a break for a week or so while I doctor him twice a day.  There’s no way to deal with this while we’re moving since the saddle pads in the heat make for a perfect breeding ground for fungus.  Happy for the herd we have been invited in by wonderful horse people just outside of Summertown, TN.  The internet doesn’t work where we’re staying so this is being typed from the front seat of a car in town.  Phone service is spotty – so please don’t be worrying – apart from the rain rot we’re all fine and that’s not terminal.

Yes!  I still have every intention of making it to Minot, Maine by the 8th of November.  It’s getting close, but fretting about it really won’t help, so I’m just going to continue to do what’s best for the ponies and keep moving forward as best we can.  I’ve been asked about my next mail drop and we’ll be here long enough for mail to catch up if it arrives by next Thursday the 16th – probably best if things are in the mail by Saturday?

Sea G Rhydr  c/o  Musgrove
59 Ratliff Road
Summertown, TN  38483

I’m hoping to have more of an update soon – meanwhile prayers and healing thoughts for Jesse’s fungal invasion would be most appreciated.

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maps are only paper

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A storm is blowing in and I am keen to return to my haven so this will be brief!  Wednesday I started out on Hwy 64/15 heading east from Olive Hill, TN towards Waynesboro.  I had been forwarned that there was construction ahead but the detour added many miles and the consensus was that I wouldn’t have too much trouble finding a way through.  Well…  it was a Lot of construction and between the gravel underfoot and the trucks zooming by and the men making comments and the places where obstacles to horse travel came one after the other I found a side road and escaped to the detour.
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The detour turned out to be very nice, but the road surface was basically gravel cemented together and pressed flat, a great surface for cars but still not lovely for hooves.  Somewhere along the way the map and the road weren’t particularly in agreement, but according to the compass we were heading in the correct direction and the road had turned to a 4WD track through the woods, really beautiful and the ponies were happy and we went along for a pleasant several miles before reaching a T in the forest.  I went up the left branch (following the compass) but it petered out.  The right branch ended up a hill at an old overgrown cemetary.
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Backtracking until I could hear the road and see a few houses led us to another trail which pretty much put us in and along the creek for the last stretch out to the road.  It was 4:30 by now and I saw a man working in his garden dressed in nice trousers and a pressed shirt and a straw hat.  I stopped to find out where I was and somehow it was exactly where I’d hoped to come out on the map, except for the bit about the road on the map actually being a river.  I was asked by my anonymous host not to post photos of his property where the ponies enjoyed grazing a sweet meadow and I camped behind an old hay barn.  He said, “I’ve spent most of my life trying to remain obscure.”  (It’s the word *most* in that sentence that I find intruiging!)
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The next morning the ponies were still weary and a bit foot sore from the previous day’s ride but I felt like we needed to move on before the storm came.  Heading back to reconnect with 64/15 on the east side of Waynesboro (post-construction) I saw a pasture with beautiful healthy looking cows, beautiful healthy looking horses on the other side of the road and “Gilbert’s Furniture” on a big warehouse with a ‘phone number.  I called and the owner emerged and agreed to let the ponies graze with his cows for a few days.
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I was welcome to camp out in the hay barn, but I’d been offered the use of a lovely cabin on the Tennessee River so I made several ‘phone calls, managed to arrange a ride, was invited in for spaghetti (yum!) while I waited for transport.  Turns out that the woman who was coming to pick me up was related by marriage to my hosts!  We headed for the cabin via the grocery store, yours truly ecstatic over the prospect of three days of solitude – and found the road blocked by water!  This was left over from last weekend’s rain storm – and didn’t bode well for the road’s passability (even in a truck!) after the impending several more days of rain.  We turned back, the wonderful woman who was driving me working on a plan B en route back to her place – and by the time we returned arrangements were in place for me to stay at their neighbor’s empty man cave cement block cabin in the woods.  Which is turning out to be absolutely perfect!
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I came up the hill today on a borrowed ATV to get on line quickly before disappearing for a few days.  The cell ‘phone doesn’t work down there either and I’m OK with that!  I’ve even got a funny little “loaner dog” named Snooper to keep me company!
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Good Morning Tennessee

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There are moments Strange and Apocalyptic on this Journey, when I look around and wonder where I am and how I’ve gotten here and What is Really Going On!?  I woke up this morning in the cab of a derelict semi, resting at ground level with blackberry brambles coming in the doors, at the edge of a lovely green pasture devoid of horses.  Suddenly I was very awake!  Last night I’d been in the middle of making dinner when they decided to go walkabout.  I think they suddenly realized that we hadn’t come through any gates on the way in.  (Little did they know that the sneaky humans went back later and closed several big gates.)  When I went to the machine shop to do my dishes I found them standing by the gate looking a little flummoxed and I led them back to the grassy pasture.
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This morning I grabbed a halter and lead and went back out to that gate.  No Ponies.  I realized that there was another way around, came to the next gate, No Ponies.  I found yet another way around, this one too narrow for a vehicle and made my way out to the front gate, No Ponies.  There was a man in a truck opening the gate for the day so I explained my situation and shut the gate behind him.  Where to even start looking?  This place is a labyrinth of big trucks, parts of trucks, the remains of trucks with most of their parts removed, acres and acres and…
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I went back to the pasture, wondering at which point to call the sheriff so at least if somebody reported two naked horses out for a jaunt they’d know who to contact.  I decided to walk down to the end of the pasture to see if I ran into a fence.  I know, I should have walked the fences before I turned them loose, but I’d been assured by the owner, who’d had cows in here previously, that they couldn’t get out – and trust and exhaustion got the better of me.  I discovered a passageway over the creek to another pasture and found two happy ponies looking at me like, “What’s all the fuss and bother?”
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So I heaved a sigh of relief, returned to my strange nest, fired up my camp stove and had a mug of mocha.  The ponies are safe, the weather is beautiful, I have found yet another strange haven and last night I took a borrowed truck to Walmart and returned with fresh strawberries and Stonyfield Organic yogurt for my breakfast.  Moments of sweetness…
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within sight of Tennessee

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I’ve taken two days off within sight of the Tennessee border.  That decision was based partly on weather, partly on a wonderfully lush pasture which the ponies are relishing, partly because we’d just ridden 4 long days in a row, covering 15-21 miles each day – but mostly because I’m finding myself really sad to be leaving Mississippi.  I’m not dreading Tennessee.  I’m looking forward to Tennessee.  I did part of my growing up in Murfreesboro; Dolly and Tinkerbell (a Shetland pony and her foal) lived in our back yard and I learned to ride at the Sikes Farm.  But I’ve somehow fallen in love with Mississippi in a way that I never expected.  If I’m honest I don’t think I’ve ever done more than drive across this state before, certainly never gotten out of my vehicle to explore, probably not taken a single back road.  If I’d met anybody they were probably working at a gas station!
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One of the joys of travelling by horseback is that you can’t help but notice the landscape that you’re riding through and the people who live there.  I’ve ridden through an incredibly beautiful spring in the past 6 weeks and been welcomed by people who have made an art and a regular practice of being good neighbors.  I know, I know, there’s no way to truly know a place by simply riding through for a month and a half, and I’m well aware that there are levels of life here that I’m totally oblivious to but I’ve talked to a lot of people and listened to a lot of stories and kept my eyes open and there’s something here that feels like a good place to call home.  I’ve found myself saying things to the ponies like:  “I know, I get it and I want to stay too – but we have to make it to Maine before we can come back so let’s get moving!”
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Mostly I travel on back roads and try to avoid riding through towns that are large enough to have a Walmart.  This is lovely and beautiful and easier on the ponies, but there are moments when I find myself suffering a bit of “culture craving” – not to be confused with “night life” for which I prefer the music of frogs and coyotes.  I’d been down in Calhoun County where I was invited to the amazing jam session potluck in Sabougla and discovered the town of Big Creek (60 people and a steak house!) My host told me about needing to replace his front porch and starting the project on Friday afternoon with one person to help.  He figured it’d take him a couple of weekends to finish.  On Saturday morning 10 people showed up and by that evening the porch was done – and it looks Great!  Riding north from Calhoun City I met the sheriff who told me that there’s still a law on the books that no vehicles are allowed on the town square because they might scare the horses.  I stayed in a lovely old house where the entire top level of cupboards in the kitchen is filled with mason jars full of canned fruits and veggies.  There’s an old-school grist mill that grinds corn (which the steak house in Big Creek buys for their delicious fried catfish and hush puppies).  OK – I could go on and on about the wonders of Calhoun County and the people there – but I digress.
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I rode North towards the town of Oxford.  The ponies were soon deposited in a lush pasture with a pond and I was told I’d be staying in a tractor shed.  No worries, I’ve stayed in all sorts of places, why not a tractor shed?  Then I walked into the (literal) tractor shed, which turned out to have a posh little flat built in, wonderfully decorated, and was so very grateful that I was going to be able to stay there for two whole days!  I’d been hearing about Square Books for several states as “the best bookstore in the South” and I wanted to go browse.  When I got to Oxford I learned that it had recently been voted “Best Bookstore in the Nation” which is the sort of thing that I appreciate.  I also came to appreciate why Oxford has been named one of the 10 best small towns in America.  It’s a university town with seriously great restaurants and an interesting little museum.  I got to see Faulkner’s place, Rowan Oaks, and was driven past beautiful homes and an impressive variety of Azaleas and flowering trees (the flowers have been delighting me since Natchez).  Unfortunately I totally dorked out and left my camera battery charging in the tractor shed.
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And now it is 11:30pm and tomorrow I must rise and shine and pack and ride into Tennessee.  The first leg of my Journey I’ll have a mounted escort because I’ll be cutting across 4 farms and it’ll be easier to show me than tell me.  The ponies are well rested with full bellies and their coats are glossier every day as they shed the last of their winter coats.
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Donkeys and Disabilities

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Last week I stopped at a campground for the night; rode in looking for the campsite with the best grazing opportunities for the ponies.  This turned out to be right behind the restroom.  It wasn’t until I’d unpacked and tethered the herd that I realized that I was in the Handicapped spot.  Oops.  I pitched my tent back away from the cement slab and picnic table and figured that if a handicapped person showed up needing the spot we’d work something out.  A man came strolling by and stopped to chat.  I said that I wasn’t even sure I was supposed to be there with the ponies and he said not to worry, that there wasn’t anybody official around.  There used to be a camp host, but since camping was already free he wasn’t sure what they’d lured him with.
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He told a story about a man coming in to camp and the camp host directing him to the handicapped spot because he was missing an arm.  The man drove around, found a beautiful spot and set up camp.  The host showed up, quite upset, and tried to send him back to the handicapped spot.  The man replied, “I’m not handicapped, I’m just missing part of my arm!”  I remarked that perhaps the host had been pushed around all his life and the chance to be in charge was the lure?  The other camper laughed, “Yeah, give him a badge and he’ll work for free!”
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A few days later I stopped to chat with a 10 year old girl who was fishing with her dad at a small pond.  She said she loves horses more than anything in the world and every year she asks Santa but all she ever gets is stuffed animals.  I said that I hadn’t gotten my first horse that was my own until I was 11, and that horses are a lot of work, but if she was creative and willing to work hard I was sure she’d have her own horse eventually.  She looked down, scuffing her shoe on the ground, dejected.  “No, I’ll never have a horse, they’re too expensive and I’ll never be able to afford it.”  I rode off feeling sad, thinking that I’d just met a child who was truly disabled, not physically or intellectually, but in terms of her belief in herself and her own abilities and potential to achieve what she wanted for her life.
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When I was 24 I got hit on the head by a tree.  Among other things, I lost much of my ability to recognize faces.  Most of the time I don’t think of this as a disability, but it’s definitely a uniqueness of my brain that I’ve had to learn to work around.  Last week I met the mayor of Flora and we chatted a bit.  Long Rider Lucy Leaf stayed with his family for three days  on her ride back in 1976 (when he was 14!)  When he returned later in a different vehicle, wearing different clothes and a cowboy hat and bringing a bale of hay I honestly didn’t recognize him until he made mention of giving me his business card.  That’s par for the course for my brain.  Since the concussion in early January I’ve had a really difficult time with remembering names and recent events as well.  Before the accident I could list where I’d stayed, name the people I’d met and recall an anecdote from each stop.  Now I’m having a hard time remembering the name of the person I’m speaking with, much less three stops back.  This does sometimes feel like a disability and I worry about inadvertantly being rude.  As Shakespeare reminds us, “In Nature there’s no blemish but the mind.  None can be called deformed but the unkind.”
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The thoughtful kindness I have encountered in Mississippi has been amazing.  They call it “Southern Hospitality” and starting with the Natchez Sheriff’s Department bringing us across the big bridge from Louisiana  it has been a blessing and a wonder to me all through the state.  The most common greeting is no longer “are you lost?” but “when’s the last time you ate?”  Mississippi is a venison state but not venison like I’ve ever enjoyed it before.  Think venison kielbasa with green onion and cheese, bacon garlic venison burgers, venison summer sausage, etc.    I had my first frog leg last night (I prefer the venison ;-)) and have heard rumors of wild turkey being a delicious treat as well.  Friday night I was invited to a jam session potluck in Sabougla that happens about twice a week and draws between 20 and 400 people depending on the weekend.  That morning as I rode a woman who’d seen me on the TV came out with bran muffins.  Later in the day it was home made candy!  I felt so welcomed and it was great to be around good live music that night!  Someone even offered me a massage which I accepted very gratefully.  The next day I had riding companions on the back roads up to Calhoun City and the miles went by like nothing.
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However, lest you think all of life has been rosy, I do want to tell you about the donkeys.  I was riding along and saw a big pasture with a good fence and a pond.  I followed the directions on the sign on the gate, explained that I didn’t want to fish but I’d love to be allowed to pitch my tent.  No problem, no charge, they’d even bring drinking water over for me.  Brilliant.  I found a nice camp spot, untacked the ponies and turned them loose, enjoying watching them graze by the pond while I set up camp.  When the owners came with water they asked if either of my horses was a mare.  Turns out that there were two donkey stallions loose in the pasture, currently down at the far end, oops!  Just about the time the donkeys realized that they had company I managed to catch Finehorn.  Jesse James ran interference (really well, I was very impressed!) and we put the ponies into a side pasture, tying the gate shut securely.  Apart from the brays of a love lorn donkey I enjoyed a fairly peaceful night.
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The next morning I made an error in judgement.  Finehorn wasn’t in heat and I wasn’t feeling well and I just didn’t feel like I had the energy to drag all the gear up to the ponies.  I broke camp, packed up, got everything ready and brought the ponies to the gear.  All was going well, Mr. James was tacked up and keeping the donkeys at bay and I had Finehorn all packed up, wizard’s cloak in place and was starting to rig the diamond hitch.  I was reaching under her for the girth when suddenly a donkey got around Jesse, made a mad dash and was mounting Finehorn from behind.  Finehorn objected.  Strenuously.  She got away from me and the rodeo commenced.  Bucking and squealing and packs flying and saddle twisting and me running after them, across the fields, past the barking snarling dogs, trying to rescue my pack pony before she became the mother of a mule.  There were a bunch of guys sitting behind the store, drinking beer and smoking and watching this whole thing unfold like it was all some Reality TV show staged for their morning entertainment.  I shouted for help, thinking one of them might at least think to go inside and let the owner know that I was having difficulties with his donkeys.  No such luck (speaking of disabled?)
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It took me an hour to catch Finehorn.  I got her and Jesse James on the far side of a fence from the donkeys and started gathering gear as I led them back to camp.  The donkeys broke through the gate and were on us again.  I got them up the hill and into the pasture from the night before and tied the gate shut before going back to retrieve the packs.  Straps were broken, a few ropes I never did find, I was beyond exhausted and there was No Way I was going to stay another night.  It was 1pm before I rode out of that lovely pasture, exiting through a gate that was about grown over with lack of use.  A couple of men in a truck were in the pasture with the donkeys, gathering firewood.  As I rode past the main gate I suddenly realized that they’d left the main gate open – and here comes the donkey!  I yelled at them that the donkey was getting out and they said they’d deal with it later and I just lost it.  I started screaming that I needed some help NOW!  That I’d been fighting off that critter for the entire morning and I sure didn’t need it following me to Maine!  One of them finally came over and shut the gate after Jesse and I managed to herd the donkey back into the enclosure.  People ask me why I don’t carry a gun.  If I’d had one that day I sure enough would have disabled that donkey!
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That night I was grateful for the haven of Gowan’s sale barn.  The ponies were safe in a secure fenced area away from the two resident donkey stallions there, and the paint stallion was in his own paddock.  We took a rest day and I used the office as an office (as well as a place to sleep!)
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Eupora

This afternoon a reporter came out from the local TV network to do an interview.  The ponies are waiting out the impending storm in a pasture with a barn to shelter under and I am revelling in the unexpected and wonderful gift of a hotel room.  Friday night I’ve been invited to a weekly gathering up near Sabougla – live music on the porch of a house built in 1889!  I’ll have to ride 20 miles to get there.  Sounds a worthy goal.  Here’s a link to the TV segment…

http://www.wcbi.com/wordpress/video-long-rider-woman-travels-across-country

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