Meeting the Ponies

Three butts on a beanbag couch and Thick says “I’m outta here!” That was Tuesday the 24th, shortly after arriving at Twilight Farms, seeing the Mustard Seed parked cheerily out by the road (thank you Melvin Beiler, Pequea Carriage Shop and Weaver Trucking for getting it here right on schedule!) and then quickly measuring the ponies’ feet for their new Cavallo CLB Hoof Boots. (Huge shout-out to Cavallo for offering to sponsor the ride with hoof boots for both ponies! – more on that soon.) That’s Theodore on the Left, Franklin on the right, me in the middle and Thick mid-leap. Twilight Farms is home to Kristin Mulhall – who has welcomed me with a delightful warmth and practicality that I didn’t know how much I needed. I arrived with a brain full of mush after over a week of driving and hotel rooms, broken up only by editing the proof of my upcoming book (3x and counting) and choosing a cover. My cousin, equine artist Suzie Burgess stepped in and helped with that. Once I decided “no AI” and we went through a bunch of options this is what she came up with (I hope you like it!)

Kristin has taken charge of Executive Function, helping make sure I’m getting the important things done in the right order, which has meant understanding that keeping up with social media and book editing and blog posts is equally important to working with the ponies, taking photos and videos at crucial moments, making sure I have all the gear I’ll need to make this trip a success, and tossing the singlepole (the long pole that goes between the ponies as they are pulling the cart) in the back of her truck and driving us down the road to a neighboring welder when it became obvious that the pole was 10″ too long for this team – we were on the way to the Amish harness shop so I could order pony sized single hobbles for tethering and pony sized neck ropes (for brief stops – so I can leave their bridles on and not tie to their bits) which I will pick up on Wednesday. Then back to pick up the singlepole – which now works perfectly.

Duane Yoder is the man who has been driving the ponies, training them and getting them legged up for their upcoming adventure and he’s been patiently teaching me how to harness and hitch up my new team and answering all my questions as he rides along on my first few drives (he’s only had to actually grab the reins once!) I have done quite a bit of driving in my life, and it’s coming back quickly, but all of that was 30+ years ago and I’ve done more single driving than team driving. Harnesses have a baffling number of straps and to start the process, the pony’s head has to go through the whole mess – already arranged in a certain way – if I get one strap that’s supposed to go over the head under, or vice versa, I have to take it all off and start again. The ponies are being very patient with the process which bodes well for our future relationship. They are super calm about being groomed and led and harnessed and played with – but once they get hitched to the wagon they really want to trot out and go places. This is also encouraging.

Twilight Farms is one of those magical kingdom sort of places. I’d been anticipating horses and ponies, probably a donkey – but Dutton the ancient mule wanders around freely accompanied by his mini Zebu cow, Matilda, who shelters under him when it rains! There are chickens and ducks and a young black swan, a bottle fed goat (another goat showed up today!) quite a few donkeys and mules of various sizes, a mini horse smaller than the Australian Shepherds, an amazing giant roan QH/Bravant cross named Toast who exudes calm sweetness and majesty in equal measure, also several cats and a mini pin named Baracuda that Thick is absolutely smitten with. It’s honestly really lovely and somehow Kristin never seems to be flustered or in a hurry. To all outward appearances she’s having fun – which is exactly the vibe I need as I’m getting ready to embark on this crazy adventure. The motto of the farm is “Where Strong Foundations Build Lasting Partnerships” and I’m meeting so many horses and ponies that are unflappable, friendly, well-trained, well put together, and absolutely gorgeous.

Franklin and Theodore work really well together as a driving team. They share a stall and hang out together in the pasture. Theodore is the boss, but he’s kind about it. Franklin is smaller by 100# and a couple of inches but makes up for that in heart and drive and enthusiasm. He’s the little engine that could, a nose ahead of Theodore as we go down the road. I think of him as a little dragon. Theodore is steady and solid, he reminds me of the old-style Shetland ponies that used to work in the mines, like a draft horse in a tiny body. He trots right out, but he’s not going to waste any energy. On the way back to the barn there’s a big hill and that’s his time to shine – when Franklin starts to scrabble a bit on the gravel I ask Theodore to “step up” and he drops his head, rounds his back, leans into the harness and just Pulls. This is what he’s been saving himself for and he’s an absolute mini-powerhouse. The first time I drove them it was in the two-wheeled training cart that they’re accustomed to pulling. Duane rode along for moral support (and to make sure I was at least basically competent) and things went really well. Yesterday, with the new, shorter team pole in place, we hooked the ponies up to the Mustard Seed, Thick wore his new harness and I tied him in the back with a horse blanket for padding and away we went! The Mustard Seed is heavier and louder than the training cart and right as we turned from the parking area onto the road Theodore had an idea about bolting, but Duane grabbed the reins and steadied him back down and I was able to handle them the rest of the drive. At one farm we passed, a couple of large dogs came running out barking at us, right out onto the road, but the ponies didn’t break stride, Thick didn’t say anything ridiculous, and on we went.

The only tricky spot came when it was time to turn around and head home. The Mustard Seed is a bit like driving a school bus. Requires more room to turn around than the Nun (my Toyota Sienna) and I’m not sure I’m ready to try a 7 point turn with the ponies. We got to a place where three roads came together around a triangle of grass – I went up the hill to the right, trying to swing wide, then cut left – and there was a truly shocking sound – sort of a grudging squeal coming from the wheels, it didn’t last long and then we’d made that part of the turn, but it shocked me and Thick and he tried to come up onto the seat between Duane and I, wide-eyed and avid. My hands were busy with the reins, so Duane got Thick back behind the seat again while explaining that there was a rubber part that doesn’t let the wheel turn so far that we tip over – warning, not actual damage – but now we’re on a down-hill and I need to complete the turn. I swing as wide as seems prudent, still get a bit of that noise, and now Theodore and the right wagon wheels are off the road into the muddy verge – just a bit, but dang! Obviously I’m going to have to develop strategies – and think ahead so we don’t get into tight spots, especially when we’re in a hurry. I’m thinking about those Forest Service roads that limit the length of RVs that can go on them.

And now, on to a few of the versatility hacks built into the wagon cover! Elam of E&M tarp shop in Paradise, PA really came through on the design. The front hoop is actually a double hoop. In the first image, with Duane driving, it’s tucked all the way back. The image on the left here is for rainy days (or possibly when the sun is low and I’m needing extra shade.) The image on the right is my nighttime/privacy set-up. I can lace through the grommets and tie to the back of the team pole if it’s windy. You’ll notice that the solar fridge fits inside the cover, so I don’t have to go out and around to get a snack or make dinner. Going down the road, the whole thing tucks back with little bungees.

These images show the back of the cover extended, from the inside and the outside. The wagon is in the hay barn today because it’s cold and windy outside, but you can get the idea. The second hoop in the back opens out to give me a covered alcove behind the wagon. This area can be used for chamber pot privacy at night, for changing out of wet or dirty clothes, as a dry place to cook when it’s raining, etc. Both end covers attach with twin zippers and can be stowed when driving on nice weather days. I’ve also figured out how to secure the back one for rainy days when I need to keep my bed dry. The bucket on the left will serve as a water bucket for the ponies and also as a trash receptacle. My privy bucket will ride on the twin shelf on the other side. The tail lights work like hazard lights and as turn signals, depending on how I set the switches up front – they’re battery operated and the batteries run off of solar panels that will be mounted to the top of the canvas soon.

Watching the weather, my departure date has been pushed back a week or so. A couple of nights ago we had rain, wind, hail, lightning and a tornado warning. It was 77F at 9pm. The next morning it was overcast and below freezing. My bedroll is comfortable down to about 40F. I’m waiting for a few things to arrive in the mail (rear view mirrors!) and I’m hoping to practice a bit with tethering the ponies before we’re on the road – which i can do starting this Wednesday after I pick up the hobbles from the carriage shop. So – April 6-7 is looking likely.

One last note, if you’re still with me here. I did an extended interview with Bernie Harberts awhile back for his Travel Grit Podcast – all about the Long Ride I did with Jesse James and Saint Finehorn. It was really fun to chat with him and remember back to that earlier adventure. I even found myself doing a bit of singing! I asked him to hold off on releasing it until March, when I was a bit closer to the new adventure and had started up the blog again. So – if you’re in the mood to listen to a story – here it is!

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So many good things happening!

Hello from Laramie, WY! Yesterday as I was driving West in crazy high winds, my memoir proofs came back for review so I’ve spent the day holed up in a Motel 6 (Thick is being very patient) going over the book yet again, trying to make sure everything is ready to go to press! The most common comment I’ve gotten when I’ve mentioned to people that I sent my manuscript off to Barker Books in Mexico to get it published has not been “Congratulations!” or even “Finally!” – it’s been “How do you know this isn’t a scam?” And despite due diligence, trust pilot ratings, etc – it was scary! I am trying to get the book ready so I can have paperbacks with me in the pony wagon when I start out, so I was moving very quickly to get this done, and while I understand it’s not going to be “Random House” quality – it’s also not taking two years even after maybe finding an agent and managing to get a contract signed. Not out of the woods yet, but today I’m feeling hopeful.

Tuesday night I stopped at Bear River Hot Springs in Preston, ID – I’d never even heard of it before but it turned out to be really lovely. Around sunset I found myself in the hotter pool with several people, mostly local (one couple had driven 45 minutes) and trying to explain about my upcoming adventure/project. It surprised me that the “Hello, Neighbor” interview part of things was apparently more interesting than the ponies and the wagon. I’m a little bummed that I didn’t manage to do an interview or two in the hot springs but I was worried about getting my dead cats wet! (Dead Cats are the furry things that go on microphones to stop wind noise, and mine are very soft and small, more like long-haired mice.) I asked one of questions from the interview around the pool “if you got a check list when you paid your taxes, what would your top 3 priorities be for how the government spent your part of the money?” and I got a brand new answer: “I’d want my taxes to stay local, to help my own community, not sent to DC.” I can still count the number of interviews I’ve done on my fingers, so I’m just barely beginning, but I’m learning something new each time and absolutely fascinated.

In the morning I had the hot water all to myself, which was its own kind of bliss – so I did a lot of stretching and floating and then I drove through the aspens and conifers and nordic ski areas of Cache National Forest on my way to Wyoming, which was experiencing such intense winds that I saw 4 semis that had been recently blown over. Tomorrow I’m driving on to Cheyenne to meet up with old friends (one of whom has a new baby!) and do a few more interviews – then on to North Platte, NE (if it’s not on fire – apparently Nebraska is flammable in March?)

Meanwhile, in covered wagon world – the Mustard Seed has a cover! Elam from E&M tarp shop in Paradise, PA spent a week turning ideas into reality and I’ll definitely be visible! Once the wagon and I are in the same place I’ll be able to show you all the versatility built in to the design.

Now it’s back with Mel at Pequea Carriage Shop for the finishing touches including storage boxes down the sides, turn signals, and a proper seat for me and Thick. Isaac will be coming tomorrow to paint “The Mustard Seed” on the tailgate. Monday should see it on a truck en route to Twilight Farms in Fresno, Ohio. The wagon is 75″ tall and just under 5′ wide, the box is 9.5′ long and the solar fridge will ride between the dashboard and the ponies. AND, Mel managed to keep the whole thing under 450#.

Franklin and Theodore have been brought in from winter pasture, even though there’s still snow on the ground. They went for a drive the other day, they still remember how to hold the wagon back going down hill and seem to be ready to get back to work!

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All Things Wagon

Hello Humans! I’m back on Lopez Island for a week, reuniting with Thick and Karen and the rest of the crew here, doing laundry, organizing gear, trying not to let anxiety get the best of me. Feeling grateful for the familiar routines of my home for the past almost 9 years. Kari Feeney drove up from Scapoose, Oregon with me to spend some time with Finley and Temekin (the ‘Stangs!) in preparation for her PCT Long Ride.

When I was quite young, I became obsessed with Little House on the Prairie. My mom made me a hoop skirt and a sun bonnet and my folks allowed me to drive a young pony named Dolly hitched to a wagon much like the one pictured above to church on many a Sunday morning. (Who knows, maybe even the same one – this one is about the right vintage and was sold out of Texas back in the 80s) My little sister rode shotgun, we were on real country roads in East Texas, this was way before cell phones, I was maybe 12? The wagon had a canvas top – a mini sized covered wagon – I was living out my pioneer fantasy life and for once I didn’t complain about having to attend services. I’m sorry I don’t have a photo of that set-up, but it’s vivid in my memories. Those memories are strongly influencing the current adventure.

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Irons in the Fire

Past time for a Real Time update – life is moving so fast! If things go as planned, in two months I’ll be on the road in Ohio with a pair of ponies named Franklin and Theodore and my devoted Corgi Thick, living in a wee covered wagon named The Mustard Seed, with my first book published and a YouTube Channel up, starting to post “Hello Neighbor” interviews. Meanwhile, I’m in a cheap hotel with a bare kitchenette in Sierra Vista, AZ – because after 9 days of dry BLM camping in my version of Paradise I was half desperate for a shower and in need of a reliable internet connection. But let’s back up just a minute.

In the comments of the most recent blog post, a woman named Barbara, whom I’ve never met, but who has been following this blog since the very beginning, asked about the book I was supposed to be writing about the previous Long Ride. In all honesty, for a variety of reasons, I hadn’t even looked at that draft in a couple of years – but it was 98% done, sitting there in a folder in my computer, waiting. Barbara very gently reminded me that there was nothing to be lost by putting it out as an ebook – just go ahead and self-publish. Right voice, right time – I suddenly found myself doing a complete 180 and thinking, “Why Not?” I originally moved to Lopez to live with Karen Fisher (who is a brilliant and insightful content editor) specifically to work on the memoir – and I’d worked really, really hard on the memoir through a lot of years of drafts and revisions. I’d also been watching the traditional publishing world disintigrating under my desk as I wrote. Traditional publishing is no longer the only route to getting a book in front of readers, but I’d been so set on finding an agent, a publishing house, a contract, that when that started looking like an impossible game – I just kind of gave up. And suddenly giving up was looking like a wrong answer.

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Story Time

“Are you riding for A Cause?”

This was a very common question on my Long Ride. And I’d smile and reply “Nope! I’m riding B Cause this is something I’ve always wanted to do – since I was a little kid – and I believe the world would be a much better place if we all did the thing that’s in our hearts to do.”

It was a bit of an awkward question, because it felt like part honest curiousity, part thinly veiled judgement, part them looking for an excuse to open their wallets and donate money to something that mattered. Some official non-profit organization that would make sure that their money went only to the properly deserving (and their noble custodians) not some random woman with a couple of horses off on a joy ride. I chose to focus on the honest curiosity and keep my fear of judgement to myself, but I thought about it a lot, having long (slightly defensive) conversations with the ponies as we plodded along.

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Angels in the Algorithm?

I literally cannot explain, even to myself, how I found him on the internet. I wasn’t looking for a pony. (I had no business even browsing horses, I was done with horses, I had spent days crying about no longer having horses in my life, but old habits die hard and I definitely had a horse shaped hole in my heart.) I have always loved ponies, but I’m 6′ tall and Jesse James (at 14.3h) was as close to a pony as I had any business riding. And this little buckskin was a proper Pony. 38.5″ – just over 9.5 hands. He was in Fresno, Ohio at a place called Twilight Farms, along with a bunch of other ponies. That was over 2500 miles away, even after taking the ferry ashore. But he had his eye on the horizon in a way that I resonated with and something in me quietly said ‘yes, please.’ So I clicked on his profile.

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The Long Riders’ Guild in Action

In July of 2021 I received an email from a stranger that started like this:

“Hi Sea!!

Thank you for being such a badass. Being able to see you accomplish what you have, to be reminded of just how possible it is, is no small thing. I am floored by your courage & bravery. 😀

Two years ago at eighteen, I embarked on a similar long-distance journey; I spent nine months walking across America solo, from Delaware to California, and near the end of my trip, somewhere in the deserts of Utah, I think, I knew my walk wouldn’t be enough. That I’d miss life on the road too much, and be drawn to wander again. 

So I thought “wellmaybe one day I could horseback ride across america, too …” and I’ve been nurturing that idea in my head ever since. Watering it here and there til it blossomed into a full-blown dream of mine. And now I can’t shake it!”

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The Call

Riding across the country last time (Oct. 2011 – Nov. 2013) I had two experiences over and over again. The first was experiencing the incredible level of courage and generosity of my fellow citizens who were willing to offer hospitality to a stranger who rode up out of nowhere with a couple of ponies and a dream, looking for a place where we could stop for the night. Most evenings found me riding up to a likely looking place, knocking on the door, explaining the improbable as though it was ordinary. “Hi! My name is Sea and I’m riding across the country with those two manure factories who are grazing on your lawn. We’re looking for a place that we might be able to spend the night and I noticed that empty pasture (or paddock or patch of lawn) and wondered if that might be a possibility? Or if you have any ideas of a place we could stay?”

Over and over again I was made welcome. Sometimes a place to pitch my tent, sometimes a guest house or an empty camper or a place in the barn, sometimes a bed in their guest room, a couch, a quick phone call to a neighbor who had a pasture or might know where we could get a bale of hay. So often I was invited in to share a meal (with zero notice!) and offered the chance to take a shower, to wash my clothes, a ride to town to resupply, breakfast, a bag lunch – it was amazing, humbling, life changing and shockingly consistent for 5000 miles. Grateful doesn’t even begin to cover it. I finished my ride with a renewed faith in the human beings I was privileged to share this beautiful country with.

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Curation

The original meaning of the word Curation (Latin: curare) was “to take care of” in the spiritual sense – a priest caring for the souls in his Parish. Like so much in our world today, original meaning has been taken over by the material realm – selecting and caring for the objects in a collection, like in a musem exhibit. While attempting to write a memoir, I’ve been thinking a lot about Curation in the sense of deciding which stories and facts, which thoughts and memories to choose out of an overwhelming abundance of material. What threads are worth following so that they tie the story together, and which are just fraying edges and charming distractions.

Of course, this means I have to have a very clear idea about what story I’m trying to tell in the first place and why. Think of it as framing. On a visual level, when composing a photograph or a work of art – what belongs inside the frame? In my innate frame of reference, Everything is connected, Everything matters, it’s all a giant, interconnected continuum and I want to transmay the whole big beautiful messy truth of whatever I’m going on about. As you can see, sometimes I really struggle with framing.

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Not Dead Yet!

Many years ago I was in a cab on Nantucket trying to get to a house on Joy street.  The cabbie got on the radio to find out where it was and the answer came back, “Between the cemeteries, that’s Joy.”  It was a very short street! 

Today marks 10 years since my last blog post. Yesterday I acquired a pair of pint sized ponies. They are at Twilight Farms in Fresno, Ohio and, if life goes as planned, I’ll meet them for the first time in March. Because, yes – I’m finally planning another adventure!

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