Living with the Herd

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A few mornings ago, Finehorn woke up feeling a bit glum.  I went over to talk to her and it turns out she’s missing Gryph.   For those of you new to the Journey, Gryph is Finehorn’s personal human and the only one who can actually ride her.  Gryph was with us for the first 5 months and then returned for November and December of 2012.  I was missing Gryph myself that morning and so I commiserated with Finehorn, scratching her neck and shoulders and talking to her for awhile.  Finehorn reached around with her nose and starting nuzzling my leg, no teeth involved, just her funny nose “grooming” me back.  I haven’t told Finehorn yet, but Gryph was accepted into NECCA (circus school) up in Brattleboro, Vermont (a huge step in living her own dream!) and we’ll be passing within 30 miles of her in late September (which is close enough for a visit – happy pony!)  If you want to drop Gryph a note congratulating her on getting into circus school her e-mail is: diviinehammer@hotmail.com .
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I’ve been camping out a lot in Pennsylvania, it’s August and beautiful and even though the nights have been a bit chilly the days warm up quickly which is a luxury in my world.  Several nights ago I spent the night in an old, abandoned double corn crib.  The ponies were tethered outside on the strip of long grass between the corn crib and the soy beans.  The farmers brought water and oats in the evening and warned me that it was going to get cold.  I’ve still got my summer fleece blanket, so I made my bed carefully, layering the 3 wool saddle blankets and the wizard’s cloak (or manty, the cotton drop cloth that covers and secures the packs on Finehorn) and wrapping the whole bedroll up in Tyvek to hold in my body heat.  Jesse came in to inspect my camp and get his shoulders scratched and I made a tasty dinner of Knorr cheddar broccoli rice with tuna and my mom’s dehydrated swiss chard and tomatoes.
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That night, after it got dark, the coyotes started in singing with lots of high yipping and not so much howl as I’ve heard in other parts of the country.  Mr.James worked his way carefully through the brambles beside the crib to place himself between me and the coyotes – blessings on my brave protector!  In the morning one of the farmers came to check on me and brought hot coffee!  The ponies grazed as I packed up camp but even with the oats they weren’t so very excited about the day ahead.
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We are all getting tired, tho’ it is manifesting in different ways.  Finehorn, who has typically been very good about visiting with children and getting fussed over has started putting her head down like a furry triceratops and just grazing through them as if they’re not there.  She’s not being aggressive or stepping on anybody, but just sort of bulldozing through with her big face – ignoring anybody without a treat in their hand.  Jesse James is soldiering on but I can tell that the miles are getting to him.  I walk with him the first part of each day now while he gets warmed up and we’re only covering about 10 miles a day on average instead of 15.  For all his bravery about coyotes and bears his nerves have had enough of large machines rushing up the road at him and I’ve found that the best thing is to stay on the tiniest roads we can find and to get off and stand with him when large farm equipment and dump trucks come rumbling past.
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I am grateful for the solitude afforded by the recent trend of camping.  Much of the reason I wanted to embark upon this Journey was to “rediscover America” – to go slowly across the land and find out who is living here and take the time to talk with them.  I’ve learned about myself that this is more pleasant and productive when interspersed with times in the wilderness where I can be alone with the ponies and my own thoughts.  As we’ve come into more populated areas the stops along the road to chat have become more frequent and thus need to be shorter in duration because Finehorn is carrying 80-100# of dead weight which doesn’t come off until we stop for the day.   The other day we’d stopped to talk with a bunch of kids, and then another bunch, and then as the latest bunch were still trailing along after us waving and yelling “Good-bye” a man stopped his truck to talk.  I was a bit short with him, pointing out that we’d been stopping to talk quite a bit in the past hour and really needed to be making some miles.  Less than 1/2 a mile later my cell ‘phone rang.  Jesse doesn’t like it if I talk while I’m riding so I pulled into a driveway and determined to keep the call very short.  It was my dear Aunt and she was wonderfully understanding, but by the time we got off the ‘phone less than 5 minutes later we’d drawn an audience.
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The kids were fine, but then there was a man who got out of his truck and started asking questions in order to tell me how he’d do it instead.  For example, he asked how many miles I made in a day.  10-15.  “I’ve been thinking about doing this but I’d be doing 50-75 miles a day.”  I really ought to know better than to engage this type at all.  I need to learn to simply smile and say sometime vapid and polite and ride away.  Instead I pointed out that he’d be going through horses pretty quickly at that rate and I’d had these two with me the whole trip.  He started talking about historic times and people doing 1500 miles in a month (that’s 50 miles a day with no rest days).  At that point I simply replied that he’d been reading different history books than I had and attempted to return my attention to the kids.  He then said that he’d wanted to ride with me a ways (no horse in evidence – he’s thinking I’m going to wait for him to go fetch and saddle his horse?)  and offered a pasture for the night.  At this point, I wised up, made my excuses and left him spluttering in the road.
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CuChullain (of the Long Riders’ Guild) says that the historic daily average mileage of a long rider was 20 miles a day.  Recently that average has dropped to 11-15 miles a day, in large part because of these stops along the road to chat.  It’s been suggested that I make up a flyer to pass out with FAQs which would enable me to keep riding rather than stopping to answer questions.  I’ve thought about that but it just makes me sad.  If somebody is genuinely interested in the ride and/or the ponies it seems rude to brush them off with a piece of paper.  That’s the sort of non-communication that is hurting us as a people and I want no part of it.  On the other hand, I don’t think that gentleman and I were going to learn anything from one another so what was the point in making the ponies (not to mention myself) stand there?P1050095

Oh dear, this is turning into another manifestation of my exhaustion.  I’d set out to write a happy blog post about living with the herd.  I’d wanted to talk about the night the ponies nested right next to my tent, lying down to sleep and leaving two pony sized bowls in the grass in the morning.  About how Jesse (who hasn’t really even liked getting groomed) has suddenly gotten very happy about getting his neck and shoulders scratched, stretching his neck out like a great copper dragon and wriggling his lips in bliss when I use both hands to oblige him.  About finding a beautiful place to camp, just at dusk, stringing up my hammock in a lovely shady grove hidden from the roads and the ponies declining to join me because the ground all around is mucky and there’s much better grass up on the hills.  They are happy when I come to visit them and bring their Equerry’s Choice vitamins and some apples, but they’re not in any way interested in visiting me here in my camp.  That’s a little sad, but there will be other camps where we can hang out in closer proximity.  I love the moonlight through the trees casting dappled shadows on my hammock’s mosquito net as I drift off to the sound of too many frogs to count!
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The flowers along the roadside are lovely.  When I tire of picking blackberries for them (which they love, but not enough to brave the thorns) the ponies are munching the clover and chicory and vetch – but my favorite is the Jewelweed.  This plant is a natural antidote for poison ivy (works preventatively as well) and nettles and all sorts of skin irritations and the flowers are beautiful (coming in orange and yellow) but the best part is the little pods that hang down – like the one off the tip of my middle finger.  When you take one in your hand it explodes in this bizarrely squiggly way to release the seed (and the squiggly bit.)  The seed is edible (tho kind of small to make it an efficient food – you don’t eat the squiggly bit) but the sensation as it pops in my hand makes me feel like a little kid – and I never get tired of it. 😉

Jewelweed

Jewelweed

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Crossing the Beaver at Wampum

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I rode into Pennsylvania around noon on Saturday on quiet back roads shaded by trees.  There’s still a whole lot of corn growing in these parts, and soy beans, but also plenty of forest and wetlands.  Saturday afternoon a man on a tractor pulling a brush hog shut down his machine as I approached and started a conversation.

this brush hog was friendlier than the last

this brush hog was friendlier than the last

I wound up camping on his land, tethering the ponies and slinging up my hammock in a sort of tree cave hidden by the Arrborvitae.  The ponies drank from the pond and the trains whistled by with amazing frequency, muffled a bit by the greenery.  (I love the sound of trains – best lullaby.)  Rabbits and wild turkey came by and just as I was drifting off to sleep a deer coughed in discomfiture at my unexpected presence; the sound was close and he was pretty persistent about it, going on for a good 5 minutes!  In the morning I found the trail, about 15′ from my camp.  It seems that I was blocking the main path from forest to graze.  Oops!
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On Sunday I saw a sign for the North Country National Scenic Trail.  I saw the dotted line on my DeLorme atlas page and saw that it crossed the Beaver River at Wampum.  Happy day!  The trail was lovely, freshly mowed and didn’t look like it gets much use.  The ponies and I wound through woods and beside meadows, crossing the occasional small bridge and listening to the roar of highway traffic (at first) and later the mosquito whine of off-road motorcycles and ATVs.  Part way through the morning at a road crossing I saw a sign proclaiming the trail to be for hikers and other foot traffic only “to ensure a premier hiking experience” but since I saw no hikers and was following tire tracks most of the time I decided that the ponies were on foot and if necessary I could dismount and walk as well.
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At one point we came up on an area near an ATV campground and stopped and stepped off the trail just in time to keep from being run down by 4 motorcyclists covered in mud, their helmets so splattered that it’s probably no surprise that they didn’t even notice me standing 3′ off the trail.  After that we took the road, stopping briefly at a trailer to ask directions.  The ponies were offered corn and nectarines which they enjoyed until the man who was feeding Jesse, with absolutely no warning or provocation, smacked him right on the nose!  I hadn’t been talking politics, Honest! but as he started ranting about how “we” need to take “our” country back from the liberals (he was being pretty racist into the bargain) and how I shouldn’t go into New Castle without a gun (I hadn’t planned on going into New Castle at all… )  I flipped Finehorn’s rope up over his head and (thinking that it would be a sad country indeed if it were made up entirely of his kind) we made our escape into Wampum where the ponies and I met very nice people of various colors and stopped for a quick bite of lunch before crossing the Beaver River on a nice wide cement bridge.
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We picked up the trail on the other side of the river after a brief section of road riding.  The trail through the woods was quiet and cool in the afternoon sun and I was thinking about Civil Disobedience and the Commons and wondering if using an underused pedestrian foot trail for equestrian through travel qualified when we came to an obstacle.  It was a creek in a deep sort of ravine with a bridge across it.  The ponies are very good about crossing bridges of all sorts but this one had railings too narrow and tall to allow Finehorn to navigate while wearing her packs.  Rather than unload her, we turned around and I started scouting for an alternate route and came upon an ATV track heading in a viable direction.  Listening carefully, I followed the trail down hill until it came out into a meadow behind a house.  As we crossed a flat metal bridge across the creek, heading towards the road, a man came out of the house.  He was friendly and helped me figure out where I was on the map related to the roads and then said that we were welcome to camp in the back meadow if it wasn’t too early in the day to stop.  There was a spacious tent already there and plenty of grass for the ponies and my choice of a cool swimming pool or a hot tub (or both if I so desired.;-))
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The ponies wasted no time in accepting the offer, chowing down on the grass like I’d been starving them and I very much appreciated the chicken soup and apple pie delivered to the tent later that afternoon.  The hot tub did my muscles a world of good last night and today I’ve taken some time to get organized and caught up on chores.  Pennsylvania: so far, so good!
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Pennsylvania here I come!

P1040954 My brain likes numbers.  For instance, this is my 136th blog post.  I’ve got 237 followers on the blog and suddenly 603 on facebook!  I’ve been on the trail 22 months and have 13 weeks before I’m due in Minot, Maine.  The blog has received 61,368 hits (the most in one day has been 490) and we’re up to 103 countries! (Africa is a bit underrepresented, if anybody has connections to spread the word there ;-).)  Tomorrow I’ll be entering Pennsylvania, state #11.  I find these sorts of numbers very reassuring because they keep progressing, quickly or slowly, in a direction that I consider to be positive.  However, they really don’t tell much of the story.  They don’t have anything to do with life is like.  So – what’s going on?

home for three rainy days - perfect!

home for three rainy days – perfect!

Sunday was a good day, perfect weather, ponies fresh and feeling good.  My stitches came out in the morning, Finehorn’s feet and Jesse’s back are doing really well and packing went smoothly.  (One side note regarding Jesse’s rainrot: the thing that seems to have solved the problem once and for all was a tip I got from an Amish farrier and healer (Nate Miller) back in Kentucky – I fed Jesse 1/2 tsp. cream of tartar (hidden in a treat) every day for a week and washed his back with a 50% apple cider vinegar solution daily as well.  By the end of the week his back was 100% back to normal, no more bumpiness under the hair – much rejoicing!) P1040970 Coming into Holmesville I discovered a hitching rail outside of the gas station and ran in to grab a coffee and an egg sandwich.  The ponies were not amused, pointing out that there was perfectly good grass in the park next door.  I took the hint and we went over there for breakfast.  As we were heading in the direction of the “bike and buggy” trail I’d heard about a truck pulled up and a couple got out and asked the usual questions.  Turns out they knew a woman named Pam Kline who lives not far away and had done a similar Journey 20 years ago.  They invited me back to their place, Windy Hill Farm, where they train and sell horses (they’ve got about 90!) but since I’d only come 4 miles and they were behind me I decided to press on.  They were super encouraging and still wanted to help so they posted about my Journey to their 5000 facebook friends asking if anybody along my route could help with lodging and/or route finding as I came through their area.  I’ve since been contacted by quite a few lovely, friendly people and have several new stops planned along the route And it’s looking like a group of 4H kids who work with rescue horses up in Maine will be coming to Minot to ride in the parade!  Social networking in action – wow!  And it speaks volumes about the reputation of Windy Hill Farm that they have a community like that.  I guess it goes to show you never know who you’ll meet by the side of the road. 😉 P1040974 The bike and buggy trail was brilliant!  Well used by both categories with one lane devoted to each (I guess walkers get to take their pick?) the 5 miles were pleasant and easy and the ponies were delighted.  We came out in Fredericksburg and I suddenly realized I had no idea how to get from wherever we’d come out (the trail isn’t on my map) and Salt Creek Road.  No problem – along came 4 Amish men on bicycles, as if they’d been expecting me.  Not only did they put me back on course, two of them had biked a month from California to Oregon last summer And they were part of the family I’d been planning to stay with two days hence.  Happy meeting and I proceeded with more confidence.  Not much farther on I was hailed by a family who offered water, carrots and apples for the ponies as we chatted.  I continued on and about 20 minutes later a van pulled up ahead of me and that same family got out, carrying a bag.  The kids had decided that since they’d fed the ponies it was only fair that they offered me some food as well and they’d packed a picnic for my dinner! P1040979 As I rode along I passed a large Amish house with a bunch of kids playing outside.  As I rode up the driveway the kids giggled, squealed and scattered.  Eventually a few women came out and I learned that I was heading in the wrong direction from town to find the Amish farrier I’d been told about as a possible place to stay.  At the next house some boys said that I was welcome to stay in the school yard across the street.  School was out for summer, there was plenty of good graze for the ponies plus a pump for water and an outhouse – perfect!  They loaned me a water pail for the herd, I rode up next to the school and untacked the ponies under a tree.  Soon I had an audience – about a dozen kids – who sat in the shade of the school and watched in silence as I set up camp.  Finally everything was done and the ponies were grazing so I sat down in the grass and I watched them back.  Eventually questions started flowing both directions and we had a good visit.  Adults started showing up as well with more questions and answers – lovely peaceful evening in a really beautiful spot.  I was given a piece of yummy fruit pizza as well as fresh eggs and sweet rolls for breakfast – and a list of names and addresses to send postcards to when I arrive in Maine. 😉 P1040976 The next day I continues on towards Pioneer Equipment, an Amish company which makes quality horse-drawn farm implements, wagons, buggies, etc.  The ponies were turned out in a big pasture and I was invited in for dinner, asked numerous questions and shown to the comfortable guest room.  The hot shower felt great and I fell asleep quickly.  Several hours later I woke up feeling sick.  By morning I was empty and went out to let my hostess know what was going on and ask if I might stay a day while I recovered.  She graciously agreed and I disappeared for the rest of the day, sleeping most of the time and emerging once in late afternoon, weak as a kitten, for a bit of yogurt and a few saltines.  It was a blessing to be left utterly alone in a quiet room with attached bath – so grateful not to have been camping right at that moment.  The following morning I was given a tour of the factory where everything is crafted from raw materials sourced as locally as possible.  It was fascinating to see wheels being constructed and my guide was very patient with my many, many questions.
P1040987   P1040986 P1040983   P1040982 Later in the parking lot a big truck pulled up and the driver recognized me and called me by name.  Turns out he’s somebody I bought hay from when I was staying at Meriwood Farm back in Tennessee – what are the odds of that!?! P1040984 Fast forward a few days and you’ll find me picking up my mail in Minerva (including my New York DeLorme Atlas and Equerry’s Choice horse vitamins), grabbing a few supplies at the store and visiting Lana Bella Alpaca Farm.  I’ve had an alpaca scarf along the whole Journey – it’s warm and fuzzy and waterproof and I love it.  It was great visiting with the alpaca herd and getting to ask all sorts of questions (turnabout’s fair play).  I was given a pair of socks to test and I’ll be letting you know how that goes in the next weeks.  There’s more to tell, but for now I’m up way past my bedtime and tomorrow I’m en route to the Pennsylvania border.  There’s a lot of fracking in this area which means large gas and oil trucks on small roads and since my dear mr.James is having rather extreme issues with large trucks lately we’re getting trailered out of the affected area rather than risk becoming a fracking casualty.
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Video Interview

Mark Lonsinger came out to interview me last Wednesday at the Cornerstone Community Church where I’ve been camping while my eyebrow healed a bit.  Here’s the result:

https://vimeo.com/71742348

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Appearances

Just when I get a nice tidy blog post about appearances and perceptions coming together in my brain I wind up with a surprise 4 stitches in my eyebrow and the whole thing gets scrambled up again.  Any last vestiges of getting by on my good looks got shot right out of the water last night when I tripped on a piece of farm equipment in the dark.  I don’t recall ever having a black eye before and frankly, I look a bit scary right at the moment.
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A week ago Sunday the ponies and I set out to discover what we could of the state of Ohio.  We had an offer of a place to stop early in the day, but since we’d only come 4 miles I said thank you for the brownies and ice water and decided to ride on.  After 10 miles the ponies were letting me know that it was time to start looking for a place to stop and so I did.  I tend to look for people who are already outside and the first person I approached crossed his arms and looked suspicious as I rode across his lawn.  His neighbor (who has horses) came over to see what was going on and 5 minutes later their voices sounded friendlier but it was obvious that I was not welcome.  In my head were the warnings of people I’d met in the South about how Northerners aren’t friendly, the people in Ohio are rude, it’s going to get harder from here on out and so on.  The next people I saw were a bunch of guys with guns piling out of a pick-up truck at a place that looked pretty much abandoned.  They told me where to find the owner (they just had permission to hunt there) and I rode on, found the trailer, knocked on the door; nobody home but barking dogs.  Next place I stopped I could hear the TV and knocked on the door which had a large “God Bless This House” decal.  I heard dogs and voices but nobody answered.  I knocked again.  A teenage boy came out, looking scared, shut the door firmly behind him and said in a brave quavering voice “Can I help you with something?”  I asked about camping on the lawn for the night and he went in to ask his mom, came back out (door firmly closed behind him) “I’m very sorry but my mom said no.”  I thanked him and rode on.  Saw people up a side road, headed that way, they disappeared.  Finally I saw a man working on something in his garage.  I rode up and asked if we could camp.  “Won’t bother me any.”  So I thanked him and asked about water for the ponies.  He went in to ask his wife who returned with a big Tupperware tub.  Joy!
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Later it came out that there had been a psycho in town recently so people were a bit nervous about strangers – but the man’s wife laughed and pointed out that with his size and tattoos people were generally afraid of her husband – and there was no way he was going to be afraid of me!  It turned out to be a great night camping on the lawn and when the father of the teenager got home he apologized and said that he would have been happy to have me stay.  His twin daughters had only seen a horse once before and with very little encouragement they spent most of the evening loving on the ponies.
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Fast forward a few days of beautiful riding, a night in the back of the Methodist thrift store in Fulton (with great graze out back!), a night in the garage of a family in Chesterville and I was riding into Ankneytown.  The ponies were ready to be done for the day and we were being very politely moved on.  A woman on a riding mower stopped to talk.  Her lawn was many, many acres, perfectly manicured – and waterlogged.  There’s a certain breed of mature, land owning New Englander, often a bit crusty, who do all their own yard work as a matter of principle (tho they could obviously afford to hire somebody) and I mentally put her in that category.  We agreed that her yard was no place for ponies and she said that I’d probably have to go another 2-3 miles to find a suitable place.  I thanked her and rode on.  The next woman said the same thing.  Then I saw Leedy Park, which had everything I needed, and asked the next person I saw if I could possibly camp there.  He didn’t think it would be a problem so I went back and set up camp.
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People are complicated!  The next morning an old pick-up truck pulled in and the woman I’d met on the lawnmower got out and walked over with an adolescent (rescued) raccoon crawling all over her.  She apologized for not thinking fast enough the day before and invited me to her house for coffee, a shower and laundry.  Turns out she’s a retired HS Physics and Chemistry teacher who is now teaching part time at the outdoor school.  Her dream was always to hunt and trap and she found somebody willing to teach her and showed me a few of her hides and a photo of last year’s catch hung up on the front of the barn – 160 hides and she ran out of room on the barn!  She went to the fur sale and not only was she the only woman there, she had the most hides and they went for the highest prices.  The men there didn’t believe that she’d gotten them all herself – but she had.  Appearances can be deceiving!  She was living her dream and was excited to be part of helping me to live mine.

Finehorn earns brownie points as a weedeater

Finehorn earns brownie points as a weedeater

a smorgasboard of minerals to choose from

a smorgasboard of minerals to choose from

So – after two days rest at Leedy Park – I rode out Saturday in the pouring rain.  A very clean cut man drove up in his pick-up truck and asked if I wanted a place to get out of the rain.  I was getting directions when it became clear that our communications were crossed.  The rain was forecast to last all day and he wasn’t offering a place to stop for the night.  He pointed out that he didn’t know me and that he had a responsibility to protect his family.  I said that I understood perfectly and that I had no way to remedy that situation but I did have a blog if he wanted to see photos and read about the Journey thus far.  He said that they were a Christian family and thus didn’t want to bring a computer into their home.  He had plenty of questions but sitting on my pony in the rain chatting wasn’t my idea of a good time and so I politely made my escape.  Twenty minutes later he returned with his daughter in the truck and her dress marked them as Mennonites; he offered a home cooked meal and a shower, but still wasn’t comfortable with me spending the night on his property.  I pointed out that since it was going to rain for the rest of the day I needed to find a place for the ponies and I to stop for the night and it wasn’t fair to Finehorn to ask her to stand packed in the rain while I ate and showered.  It takes most of an hour to unpack and pack her and I just didn’t see the point.  Again, I had to make my excuses and extract myself.  I felt bad for the man on one level because he was obviously wrestling with himself regarding right action in this situation, helping a stranger versus protecting his family.  It was tempting to start quoting Bible verses but again, what would be the point?  By that time I’d decided this wasn’t somebody I wanted to stay with anyway.
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I was riding along, thinking about fear and admittedly feeling a little judgemental (and grumpy).  I’d come into an area where most of the farms I was passing were Amish.  I suddenly realized that I was afraid to go up to an Amish house and knock on the door and ask for a place to stop for the night.  What we don’t understand, we fear.  I’d heard many stories and supposition, over three states, about the Amish people from the English (which is what the Amish call the rest of us ;-)).  The few experiences I’d had with the Amish in TN and KY had been very positive.  I’d had great help with Jesse’s back and Finehorn’s feet and they’d been very understanding about Jesse’s fear of their buggies.  Several Amish had stopped to ask where I was going and what the Journey was about (just like everybody else) and still, I was viewing them as “other” and suffering from fear of the unknown.  That isn’t who I want to be.  So, as I was thinking these thoughts I saw three young Amish men outside of a nice house on a hill to my right.  I rode up the driveway and spoke with them, asking if they knew of anyone with a spare pasture for the ponies where perhaps I could take shelter in the barn to get out of the rain.  They asked a few questions and said that the next 3 miles were mostly Amish farms and nothing came to mind.  I rode back out the driveway, psyching myself up for another three miles of soggy riding but hadn’t gone a quarter mile when a tractor rolled up behind me.  The Amish man driving it said that they had box stalls to spare in their barn if that would work.  I thanked him and asked if it would be all right if i camped in their barn.  He looked at me like I was crazy and said “if that’s what you really want to do?”
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I untacked the ponies and put a nervous Finehorn into a big box stall.  She wanted OUT!  I put mr.James in with her which helped a little bit, tho he would obviously have preferred a room to himself.  I was invited into the house and with incredibly gracious hospitality offered a hot shower!  There is a saying, “when in Rome, do as the Romans do” but of course one must first determine what it is that the Romans are doing!  I think this had been a lot of my fear – not knowing how to behave and committing some awful and embarrassing social blunder.  I face this quagmire most nights that I’m invited in, and have realized that it’s always easier to stay in my comfort zone and try to pick houses where I think I already have a clue as to the “culture” and what’s expected of me.  In California it was always scarier riding up to a Mexican house: what if they didn’t speak English!?  In this case, I needn’t have worried.  I helped peel peaches for dessert while home made pizza baked in the oven.  My brother’s family has a “Friday night – Pizza night” and this family had that same tradition on Saturday night.  7 layer salad, ice cream to go with the peaches, interesting conversation and I felt very much at home.  After dinner the family gathered in the living room and sang in 4 part harmony and  my upstairs bedroom was beautiful and comfortable.  After breakfast the devotional focused on Matthew 25: 31-46.  I was invited to Sunday School, but elected to ride on, feeling very grateful for the night’s rest, the company, and the names of relatives I could stay with further on my way.
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It was a beautiful day’s ride, cool and breezy on back roads with very little traffic.  I passed a campground full of RVs and screaming kids and I cringed and didn’t even slow down.  As the ponies started to flag I started looking for a place to stop.  Lots of “no trespassing” signs – and a red truck that came up slowly behind me 3 times, full of 20-somethings who all waved and smiled, waiting to pass on the narrow roads until I found a place to get the ponies off to the side.  The third time I asked them if they were lost and they laughted and said that they were just driving around.  I asked if they knew of a place I could stop for the night with my herd.  They told me about a church camp up the road a bit with a creek and I was riding in that direction when a woman in a red car drove up behind me.  Her kids had told her I was looking for a place to stop and she invited me to come back to the house I’d just passed.  It was a beautiful spot and I tethered the ponies on the lawn, just out of reach of the corn and tucked my gear in the lean-to.  I was invited in for a dinner of fresh veggies and grilled wurst and then went out to check e-mail and set up my hammock.
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As it was getting dark I went to move the ponies, wound up speaking with the neighbors over the hedge for awhile and was walking back towards my hammock.  By this time it was dark and I was walking towards a bright street light and my vision hadn’t adjusted yet.  I tripped on a piece of farm equipment and hit my forehead.  It didn’t hurt too much and I picked myself up and continued walking across the yard when I realized that there was blood running down my face.  I went to the house in search of ice, worried about bleeding on the floor.  My wonderful hostess stayed very calm, brought me to the sink, took a look at the gash and called a doctor who goes to their church.  He suggested that she bring me over so he could take a look and off we went, driving into the darkness at 10pm.  My hostess was thoughtful enough to tell me where we were going “so I didn’t think she was kidnapping me and driving me out into the middle of nowhere in the dark”.  Dr. Scott Brown invited me into his house, laid me back in a recliner and said I needed stitches.  He just happened to have everything he needed in the truck because he’d thought he needed to stitch up one of his sons two days before.  He was on crutches due to a hip replacement a month prior, had on a shirt that read “got garbage” (he used to work as a garbage man)  and the whole scene was a bit hilarious, my hostess taking photos (per my request) and yours truly being very brave (and grateful for the local anesthetic!)
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4 stitches later I was on my way again.  I offered to pay the doctor for his work, well aware of what this would have cost (in time and money) had I needed to go to the emergency room.  He declined, and then half-jokingly said that if he charged me then I could sue him.  How sad is that?  The idea of suing anybody for my own clumsiness and bad luck just hadn’t occurred to me.  But in our current American culture, every time somebody allows me onto their property, every time somebody is kind to me and takes me in for the night, they are running the risk that I could repay their kindness with a lawsuit.  How awful is that?  Last night on the ‘phone my dad had challenged me to write about some of the less wonderful experiences I’d had on this Journey.  When I called home this morning to tell them about my stitches I asked him if this counted.  He said, “No.  This is more like yet another miracle and everything working out perfectly.  This of where this Could have happened.  You easily could have been coming back from the emergency room at 4am, with a huge bill – and that’s IF you could have found somebody willing to drive you!”  And he’s right – blessings once again on the incredible brave kindness of strangers!
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PS – Finehorn had banged her eye while in the stall the night before, so originally I was going to say that I’d banged mine in a gesture of solidarity, but it never quite fit in the post.

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Ohio in July

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“Ah, this is the life, it feels so good to be on the road again.”  she sighed as she sat typing up a blog post while sitting on a picnic bench drinking a Barq’s root beer in the gracious shade of Leedy Park in Ankneytown, Ohio.  The ponies graze happily and the neighbors are friendly and there’s an outhouse, what more could a Long Rider desire on a 70*F day off following four good days of riding? Try fruit and venison bologna and watermelon moonshine!  (I’m not even kidding about the watermelon moonshine – it’s bright pink and smells like something you’d bathe in!)  I slept like a baby in my hammock last night, swaddled in wool horse blankets since the nights are on the verge of chilly and tonight some local horsewomen are taking me out for Pizza!  So spoiled! ;-P

my own little corner of paradise

my own little corner of paradise

the leedy park ladies loo is a 5 seater privy

the leedy park ladies loo is a 5 seater privy

The new Renegade Hoof Boots caught up with me on Monday evening after riding two shortish days with no packs on Finehorn.  The original style arrived for Jesse James and Saint Finehorn is now stylin’ the new Vipers – all in Neon Orange which I somehow thought might not match the ponies quite so well as the Arizona Copper, but which they seem to really want to show off!  I learned Tuesday that if we want to make good time we wear the boots and send the packs via vehicle – both because the ponies step out briskly, but also we don’t get stopped nearly so often by people wanting to know what’s going on.  I might look eccentric, but not such an anachronism.   I’m really impressed with the new Viper design.  The V in the front means that they snug down closer to the hoof wall, the closed heel cup in the back keeps out dirt and detritus and on the second morning Finehorn was helping me put them on, having her next hoof ready and figuring out a maneuver which slides her heel neatly into the cup – clever pony!  We’d had some troubles back in the desert when she wore them through some deep sand and her heel got rubbed (sandpaper on the inside – ouch!) and until now she’s preferred to go barefoot – I wasn’t expecting such a radical change in attitude!

Vipers in the rain

Vipers in the rain

Jesse shows a little leg

Jesse shows a little leg

I saw photos on the fb page of an endurance rider (which I now can’t find to link to) showing the comparative amount of wear to the bottoms of her boots: same ride, same horse, last year’s originals versus this year’s Vipers – and while the originals looked a little chewed, the Vipers looked pretty much new!  The only way to get the Vipers now is to call on the ‘phone and ask – they’re measured in millimeters (same two measurements needed as for the originals) – they come in 5 colors and the folks at Renegade are super helpful and informative on the ‘phone.  Wednesday we did a 12 mile day fully packed with boots and the ponies both did really well, no rub marks from the new boots and making a solid 3mph over roads we would have been avoiding if we were barefoot (but were perfect riding roads otherwise).  Huge thank you to Renegade for sending the boots – and Kudos for making improvements on an already great hoof boot!

no more apples - time to hit the trail

no more apples – time to hit the trail

Just because I’m kind of a dork and find these things fascinating, I wanted to share a couple of close-ups of why all roads are not created equal in terms of a ponies hoof.  As we learned in Tennessee, certain roads that looks really nice and smooth at a distance are actually 4 grit sandpaper under hoof – zillions of sharp little rocks steamrollered into tar is not quite as bad as gravel but certainly much worse than actual cement.
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I am riding through primarily corn and soy beans.  I find myself singing as I ride, “oh what a beautiful morning, oh what a beautiful day… ”  I think the lack of oppressive heat is doing us all good – tho the floods in this area have been mighty.  Whole fields of corn have been drowned and the other day in the aftermath of a downpour the soybeans were in standing water several inches deep.  The word supersaturated comes to mind.

the corn is as high as a Long Rider's eye!

the corn is as high as a Long Rider’s eye!

corn has toes!  who knew?

corn has toes! who knew?

corn after the flood

corn after the flood

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I just realized that I’m running quite low on battery so shall sign off for now – –P1040896

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Recognition

“Free Range!!!”  In early April, just north of Flora, MS on a crazy bad stretch of two-lane  strewn with roadkill a big pickup truck came roaring by, four young men pumping their fists out the windows and yelling  “Free Range!!!”  And guess what?  I wasn’t even annoyed.  A bit shocked at first, but honestly?  Just for a minute there I felt like a total rock star. 😉   And that was nothing on how I felt yesterday when I received an e-mail from CuChullaine O’Reilly of the Long Riders’ Guild with the news that I’ve been chosen to carry the Long Rider Flag for the rest of my Journey to Minot, Maine.  I was reading through tears and hugging myself and misdialed twice trying to ‘phone home to tell my folks, trying to get my voice under control so they wouldn’t be worried.  The flag will be coming to me from New Zealand where it was carried by Pete Langford as he completed the first modern ride across the length of New Zealand’s two islands.  http://www.freewitheveryhorse.com
Pete Langford arrives at the cape on the final day of his ride

I’ve always thought of proud and humble as opposites but right now I’m feeling an amazing and rather heady mix of both.  If you haven’t checked out the Long Riders’ Guild website yet then it’ll be harder for you to understand how incredibly honored I am feeling right now.  I am not a joiner and I never have been.  I’ve never walked across a stage to accept an award or diploma in my life.  While the rest of my class was graduating from high school I was riding my horse 100 miles in 4 days from home up to camp for my summer job.  These sorts of things have just never mattered much to me and have actually seemed sort of embarrassing.  Becoming a member of the Long Riders’ Guild last summer Mattered to Me.  These are my heroes.  I sometimes joke that it’s the club for people who have the same disease that I do, wanting to ride horses across continents – but it’s so much more than that and I wanted in!  I jumped through hoops and answered questions and probably even begged a little.  I caught my breath every time I checked my e-mail and the Long Rider message was the first one I opened.  And they finally said yes.
Flying the LRG flag in New Zealand

But I have to admit, I’ve kind of been feeling like the brash American rookie – bumbling “across the civilized American continent” on a shoestring and a prayer, struggling to keep my herd together, making errors in judgment and not even having A Cause.  I mean, over 100 of the LRG members are also members of the Royal Geographical Society.  British Long Rider Christina Dodwell was recently awarded Spain’s highest international exploration award and Lithuanian Long Rider Vaidotas Digaitis is home from a ride around the Baltic Sea to the Arctic Circle and back (he didn’t carry a gun either).  Historically, I’m in the company of such characters as Oscar Wilde, Isabella Bird, Frederick Law Olmstead and England’s Queen Elizabeth the first.  Are you starting to see the sorts of hoofprints I’m following? – it’s not just Mesannie Wilkins!  Doug Preston and Walter Nelson followed Coronado’s trail, Bonnie Folkins crossed Kazakhstan with men who hunt wolves with eagles (and she took amazing photographs!)  And you know what?  This crew isn’t elitist!  I’ve been welcomed in with open arms, given advice when I’ve asked for it, encouragement when I’ve needed it and treated as a peer – with my $1 pinto pony and my funny little fjord.  And I am so incredibly proud to be granted the right to carry the Long Rider Flag – and fiercely determined to live up to the standards of the Guild.  (Like my dad drilled into us growing up: “with privilege comes responsibility” – words of wisdom for All of us.)

are we almost going yet?

are we almost going yet?

OK – enough with the flag waving – now it is time for me to get some sleep.  Tomorrow we ride.  Yesterday on the way into town to visit the Post Office and pick up a few supplies I noticed that the already flooded Olentangy River was much higher than it had been a few days ago.  This seemed odd because it hadn’t been raining -> where was the water coming from? Turns out we’re just downstream from Delaware Lake and the water had been let out of the reservoir in anticipation of the coming rains.  I had thought to be back on the trail this morning, but plans were slightly rearranged because the new Renegade hoof boots hadn’t arrived yet.  Mid-morning today I found myself exceeding glad for that delay when the skies opened up amidst great crashings of thunder and flashings of lightning.  Sometimes it’s a very nice thing to be safe and dry inside, knowing that the ponies have a shelter of their own in which they can take cover if they so choose.
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And this guy?  Riding from Hooters to Hooters across the USA for photo ops and free beer?  um – NOT a Long Rider.
Hooters on horseback

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Just for fun

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For some reason I have been pondering about bee hives lately.  There is a colony of bees living in the septic tank under my casita on Vieques – not the sort of thing you’re going to collect honey from…  I have been wondering if there are any viable and visually pleasing alternatives to those ubiquitous (and boring) white rectangles which people who keep bees tend to favor.  I recently learned the word for the old-style dome shaped beehives (the ones that the hair-do is named after) – Skep.
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Yesterday Elsbeth took me to a great little bookstore in downtown Delaware, Ohio and apart from having some of the most amazing street art I’ve seen in a long time, it’s called the Beehive – and the mosaic features a skep.  Sweet!
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Also sweet was Whit’s frozen custard shoppe next door, but I shall not post photos of my gluttony. 😉
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A Change of Pace

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Thursday morning the ponies and I were in Bowling Green, Kentucky.  Thursday evening found us in Delaware, Ohio.  A distance that would have taken us over a month to travel by hoof was done in a day.   It’s hard to know how to even think about that.  The entire way I didn’t have a single conversation with anyone outside of the truck I was riding in beyond “cheeseburger, catsup only” and “thank you”.   Cincinnati flew by (or, more properly, we zoomed through Cincinnati) so quickly that all I had time to register was surprise at the interesting architecture of the large buildings there (who knew?)  and Columbus was marked by the traffic of rush hour.  The rolling hills and sink holes west of Bowling Green gave way to close, wooded hills and then flattened out to farmland and I have no idea what any of it smelled like.  The magnolias have been left behind along with some of the humidity.  The rivers are still flooded and muddy although the mud seems to be less red and more brown here.  I am left with a vague feeling of having missed something.
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Rereading my previous post I realize that, unless you’ve been following me on fb or checking the “daily update/contact info” page (at the top of the blog) you may have a vague feeling of having missed something as well – like, why are we suddenly in Ohio (via trailer?)  Long story short, Finehorn came up lame on the 4th of July.  As in, “Don’t make me walk over there for a treat, please bring it to me” lame.  After consulting with two vets and an Amish farrier the cause was determined to be my own bullheaded stubbornness on two counts.  One was the goal of reaching Kentucky for my birthday.  The other had to do with how well the ponies had been doing barefoot and my not taking some extenuating factors into account.  1).The ponies had been standing in grassy pastures for most of their 6 weeks of rest and had lost much of the toughness they’d built up in their hooves.  2).The back roads in Tennessee are made of some awful pressed composite rock substance that looks smooth but is actually pretty rough.  3).Jesse is usually the more tenderfooted of the pair and since he was doing fine and it was Finehorn’s back hooves (out of sight… ) and she’s such a trooper (Not a whiner!) I just didn’t catch it in time.  Why it took two days to manifest is still a mystery.

words of wisdom from Elsbeth

words of wisdom from Elsbeth

She’s already doing much, much better.  I painted her soles with the special paint and walked a mile with her today and although Jesse whinnied frantically from the pasture, running along the fence and missing us desperately, Finehorn walked out beautifully.   Renegade is sending 6 more hoof boots so that both ponies will have a full set to go on with and we should be on the trail again within a week.   Which brings us back to the subject of schedules and deadlines and what this Journey is really all about – which was never supposed to be schedules and deadlines and “destination at all costs”.   I realized, belatedly, that I’d gotten my priorities confused and we were all suffering for it.
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In the midst of my freak out, when I was feeling like a fraud and a failure and a few other f-words, I got an e-mail from CuChullaine O’Reilly of the Long Riders’ Guild.  He had noticed that I was in Kentucky and was sending contact information for several interesting and potentially helpful people in the area as well as sharing that not only had Mesannie Wilkins travelled through Glasgow, KY, that was also where he’d gone to write his book, Khyber Knights And that was where he and Basha had been married and gotten the Long Riders’ Guild up and rolling.  All this the day before I was due to leave for Ohio via trailer.  Oy.  I wrote back, a long rambling e-mail alternating between explanation, justification and angst – pouring out my soul and my situation – half afraid I was about to be booted from the Guild but knowing that I couldn’t be the first to face a similar scenario and hoping that he’d share some wisdom and perspective to help straighten out my head.  Blessings on CuChullaine, he did exactly that.
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Among other things he reminded me why I started out in the first place: “to see my country, one hoof print at a time, to connect with people, to explore the corners of my own soul.”  And he reminded me that I’ve done all that.  Ok.  I’ve also decided to end my ride in Minot, Maine to pay homage to Mesannie and Tarzan (her horse) on 8.November.  Ok.  I’ve already ridden well over 1000 miles and there’s no shame in putting the needs of my ponies ahead of my ego – that’s expected of a Guild member.  But the best thing he wrote, after pointing out how long it took Marco Polo to reach the court of Kublai Khan, was this:  “Enjoy every moment left in the saddle.”  And that’s what I intend to do.  There’s no sense in pushing the miles and rushing the Journey and being stressed out and exhausted.  There’s no sense in pushing the ponies (or myself) past the limits of endurance.  If I’m in too much of a hurry to stop and talk with people along the way?  That’s failing.
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After 21 months on the trail the ponies and I are worn out.  We have 4 months left to travel before we’re due in Minot, Maine for the end-of-the-trail party.  The last weekend of September I’m planning to attend a Nature Writing workshop led by the editor-in-chief of Orion Magazine in Rowe, Massachusetts (with the ponies ;-)).  From there to Minot is 250 miles and we’ll have 40 days to cover it.  Between now and then I fully intend to enjoy every moment I have left in the saddle, continue to “see my country, connect with people and explore the corners of my soul.”  Because That’s the point, not how far or how fast – not proving anything to anybody – just riding each day because that’s what I’m doing with this part of my life.  If the ponies are tired, we’ll stop and rest.  If somebody offers me a cup of coffee or a cold lemonade, I’ll say yes.  If we find a sweet camp beside a creek with plenty of grass and the weather is perfect maybe we’ll decide to stop an extra day.  It seems so silly to me that I’d made the conscious choice to step out of the mainstream – off the treadmill – and then I somehow tried to turn this ride into that sort of experience after all.  No more.  The ponies and I will amble and ramble and make friends with chickens and children and all who cross our path.  That’s why we’re out here!
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Kentucky Celebration!

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I am sitting contentedly on a breezy hill in beautiful Kentucky as the sun sets. Yesterday I crossed the state line after a long 15 mile day, practically dragging Saint Finehorn.  The very first person I saw asked if I needed water for the ponies and I accepted gratefully.  I wanted to ask her to say “Happy Birthday, Welcome to Kentucky” but I felt silly so instead I asked if she knew of a place where we could rest for a day or two since we’d only had two days of rest out of the past 12 and were well overdue for a break.  She made a ‘phone call, handed me an icy coke, hopped in her car and returned a few minutes later with great news.  I rode over the hill and across the road where a man in a white pick-up truck was waiting to lead me to my haven.  It’s 1/2 a mile into a big farm, down on a spring-fed pond. There are two caves, one with water emerging and the other dry. The Red River (a different Red River) is just over the bluff.
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I unburdened the ponies, set up camp and slung the hammock between two trees, changed into my PJs and had a great conversation with my folks who had just been in Minot, Maine visiting with the woman who is setting up the end of the trail festivities.  It was after dark and I was reading in the hammock when I saw headlights approaching.  What!?!  I heard voices and beeps and went down to investigate.  There woman who had originally welcomed me to Kentucky was there with her family (3 generations!) and they handed me a mason jar with a birthday cake in it, complete with candle and sang Happy Birthday!  What a wonderful surprise!  They’d also brought a cooler with ice and a bunch of food and we stood by the fence while I ate my birthday cake and the ponies tried to figure out what was in the cooler.  I’m sorry about the lack of photos, but this was all happening in the pitch dark.  Fresh melon and tomatoes from the garden, eggs and sausage for morning – talk about spoiled rotten!
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Today I’ve had many visitors and felt incredibly welcomed to Kentucky.  Organic zucchinis went into my breakfast skillet and tonight a T-bone steak and baked potato were delivered to my camp.  The ponies are grazing and resting and keeping tabs on things and places to stay as we head NE towards Bowling Green are being set up.  Did I mention the homemade jam?  If this is a foretaste of Kentucky, I’m really excited about July.P1040744

And now it seems that rain is starting to drip from the sky so I’ll keep this short and try to write more very soon.  Will add photos tomorrow too as connection is glitchy and storm is arriving.

Harvestmen sheltering from the Storm

Harvestmen sheltering from the Storm

 

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