Bucket List of Destiny


Yesterday I ate bear for the first time.  It was good – dense and chewy and flavorful, marinated and grilled medium rare.  I was served back strap from a 300# sow who had been eating mostly grass – all of these things being integral to the flavor and texture.  I’d been warned that bear was greasy and nasty and tough, that it would expand in my mouth the more I chewed it; that I’d hate it.  Nope – it was delicious!

So here’s the funny thing ->  I’ve been thinking a bunch about “Bucket Lists” lately – the list of things we want to do in this lifetime.  This cross-country horse Journey, in one form or another, has always been at the top of my own personal bucket list – sort of in the category of “the impossible dream”.  And here I am doing it.  Cool.  When I was 18 I made a bucket list with over 100 items listed.  When I was 34 and going through a pretty dark time, living at home and going through boxes of saved junk, I found that list – and made myself pick something to drag me out of my funk.  I wound up hiking 750 miles of the Appalachian Trail the next summer – not a bad first attempt at an extended hike!

That long ago list has disappeared – but a few days ago I started thinking it might be fun to dream up a new bucket list – maybe even post it on the blog – no reason I can’t double up on my dreams!  The two things that (randomly!) popped into my head were:  ride in a hot air balloon and eat bear meat.  Two days later H and I went down to town to try and meet B, who reputedly knew where we might be able to find some fire agates.  Turns out that not only did he know about the fire agates, he’d shot a bear on Sunday, cooked some up for dinner that night, and would I like a taste?  Ask and ye shall receive!

Meanwhile, back on the ranch, the ponies are enjoying their “vacation” and healing slowly but surely, I am in the process of learning to make tempeh (another bucket list item) today and the free range rodeo blog just celebrated 10,000 hits!  And going through my photos, I found pictures of another one of my bucket list items – I’ve always wanted to see the Ocotillo cactus in bloom.  I’ve also heard them called century plants (which is an exaggerated reference to how seldom they flower) and I’ve missed them by a week or a rainstorm several times – and we rode through them for weeks this trip!

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Your Next Adventure?

Once upon a time I moved to Vieques, Puerto Rico.  I found work, saved some money, got a bit of land and built a casita (a little house) with help from friends and family.  Now I’m riding across the country with the horses and Vieques seems long ago and far away – Except for the responsibility of keeping the casita occupied.  My current caretaker just found another gig and I don’t have anyone scheduled to be in residence from now until late December!  Help!  If you (or someone you know) wants to spend some time living “old school” in the Caribbean – here’s your chance.

Interested?  Read on.  The casita isn’t everybody’s idea of a dream vacation – but if you’re comfortable camping it’s pretty sweet.  The basic deal is simple -> a free place to stay in exchange for being a “security presence” and doing Something while you’re there to make things nicer for the next person.  The casita is 16’x20′ – there’s a ladder leading upstairs to the bedroom – Q bed (with mosquito net) hangs from the ceiling.  The casita is off-grid – no electricity.  There’s a propane stove/oven – please make sure there’s propane for the next person when you leave.  1000 gallons of rain water are stored in cisterns – a hand pump brings it up to two 55 gallon drums (one outside painted black for warm water) – from there it’s gravity feed to the sink and shower.  Grey water is caught in 5 gallon buckets to flush the toilet and water the plants.  Living at the casita is Physical.  The nearest store is 1/2 mile Down Hill.  If you want to keep food cold you’ll need to bring ice for the ice chest back Up Hill 1/2 mile.  The view is amazing – over rolling hills to the ocean – and the island of Culebra in the distance.  Downstairs is an 8’x16′ deck – upstairs is a balcony that’s 8’x5′.  The downstairs windows and doors can be locked – the upstairs is open to the view.  When it rains and blows you’ll stay drier if you move the bed downstairs.

The casita comes equipt with sheets and towels and hammocks, pots and pans and dishes.  There were two bicycles when I left, but there’s no telling what condition they’re in by now.  Transportation is an issue – it’s entirely possible to walk and hitch rides – if you’re a walker.  There are “publicos” (taxi vans) which will take you anywhere – when you can find one!  I had a scooter for awhile, which worked really well as island transportation.  The “best” (most secluded) beaches are down the Navy Road – which is a long walk by most people’s standards.  That said, the entire island is 21 miles long and 7 miles wide and the casita is situated sort of “north central” on the island.  When my folks go down for a week or two they rent a 4WD.  When it rains you’re going to be walking in the last quarter mile or so – because even a 4WD can’t handle the slippery red clay/mud that the road becomes.

Vieques is a bit “wild west” – not long on infrastructure – and petty theft can be an issue.  Don’t bring/flash valuables!  If you’re looking for casinos and shopping – this isn’t the island for you.  On the other hand – the snorkeling is great, the many beaches are lovely (and in the off season it’s entirely possible to have a beach to yourself!) – summer is Mango season, and there are also papayas, limones, carambolas, avocados, bananas, plantains, guavas, coconuts, passion fruit, nonis, anons, guabanas, cashews and more – you won’t starve!  There’s a fish market down by the ferry dock – or take a spear gun and a mesh bag when you go snorkeling.

I’m happy to answer questions about the casita and/or Vieques if you’re interested in staying at the casita for a spell.  It’s available Now – and through the end of 2012.  At this point I have a couple from the UK planning to be in residence January through April of 2013.  If that changes I’ll post something here – meanwhile I’m hoping to keep the place occupied between now and then with some miraculous patchwork of caretakers!  If you are interested please e-mail me at: sea-g-rhydr@juno.com

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Same Language – Different Culture

Tuesday I rode a mule for the first time.  Her name is Charlene and she’s tall, like Daisy, and calm and friendly and quite definitely Not “a horse with long ears”.   We’d gone out looking for a missing calf – dead or alive.  The cow had come back to the barn – calfless and bawling.  There is a mountain lion known to be hunting in the area, there was a bear seen recently down along the river at the edge of the ranch – and while on the reservation I’d heard that a pair of wolves had come down from the mountains (where they’d been released by the government) and were working the Gila river – two calves and a calving cow had already been killed.  After over an hour of searching, for a calf, a carcass or some tracks that might yield a clue, I returned to the barn.  Jesse James gave me a Look.  I was able to assure him that I had no intention of trading him in on a mule.  The “language” was the same (seat, legs, hands and voice gave the same commands) but there was a very real difference – Charlene moved differently than a horse,  had different reactions to things, thought differently.  Different culture.  I’ve got a lot to learn about mules before I even think about adding one to the herd.

I’d run into this concept a few years ago when I had the opportunity to spend the better part of a year in Ireland.  Theoretically we all spoke English – but the communication glitches went far beyond accents and idioms – there were basic cultural assumptions that were following a very different pattern and thought process.  For instance – they think that the U.S. is barbaric not to provide universal health care, their artists (and writers) live tax free, and a cup of tea is offered almost before “hello”.  Not to mention the permeability between what I considered “ordinary reality” and other realms or dimensions that people there seemed to take for granted.  Gryph was taking pictures of a small waterfall and when we looked at the images later she’d captured a wee pixie standing on a rock – it was obvious what it was, and nobody even thought it odd.

Last week, crossing the San Carlos Apache Reservation, I had a similar experience.  The ponies were badly in need of a rest and on Friday evening we camped down along the Gila River.  Saturday afternoon I heard a vehicle pull up and a door open and close.  As I finished strapping on my Chacos an Apache man appeared at the top of the wash, looking down towards my tent.  I stood up and walked towards him and he said “I was just wondering who was down here.  Are those your horses?”  I said that they were and explained my situation.  He said that they had come to go fishing, “but there are other places to go fishing.”  As he turned back to his jeep, where his wife and kids were waiting, I asked him if it was ok that I was there.   “I wasn’t sure how to ask for permission.  Who owns this land?”  He looked at me as if I had grown an extra head.  “It’s tribal land.  Nobody owns it.  You’re fine here.”   And I was.

When I was plotting out my route, plenty of people warned me about the Reservation.  “You don’t want to go through the Rez”  was the basic assumption, for whatever reason.  There were warnings about permits and about “those Crazy Apache.”  But the most logical route from where I was to where I wanted to go led through the Rez – and so I went.  And people were friendly, and helpful, and interested and encouraging (like everywhere else I’ve passed through on this Journey).  The Apache warned me about rattlesnakes.  (The one I encountered let me know that I shouldn’t ride too close – and the ponies and I passed safely on the other edge of the narrow dirt road.)  The Apache also warned me about their neighbors to the East – the Mormons.  “The Mormons aren’t friendly.  They don’t like transcients.  They’ll run you off and won’t let you camp – and they own all the land you’ll be traveling through.”

On Good Friday I left the reservation – and the Mormons I met took me in with amazing hospitality and warmth.  Seeing that the ponies were in need of a real break, they offered me a place to stay and rest for as long as was necessary.  And here I am, encountering yet another culture with which I share a common language.  One of the things that I’ve been thinking about over the past year is how America traditionally places a high value on being “self-sufficient” – which used to mean having the skills, ingenuity and work ethic to feed, clothe and shelter one’s self and family.  It seems that the current version of “self-sufficiency” has more to do with being able to afford to shop at Walmart (or at least having a credit card with which to procure the necessities of life.)  The people I am staying with are serious about old school self-sufficiency.  They have chickens for eggs and cows for milk and cheese and butter.  They can and freeze food and put up hay for their livestock.  It’s a lot of work!  They aren’t Luddites – they use tractors and drive to town, but they think seriously about life without the luxury of readily available fuel (hence the mules).

Speaking of Luddites – please excuse the lack of photographs in this blog entry.  I’m not the camera whiz and I have yet to figure out how to wipe a memory card clean so that I can re-use it.  I’m working on it – meanwhile I’ll post this as is – and get on with other tasks.  Oh – and the calf that Charlene and I were looking for returned!  It seems that its mother hid it somewhere while she came back for a drink of water – obviously she did a good job!

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Half a Rodeo…

I must admit that I was feeling less than fully confident as I rode out of Tonopah with Jesse James and Finehorn – but without Gryph and Daisy and Cowgirl.  Even my spectacular new hat didn’t quite make up for feeling like we were moving on as half a herd.  How would people respond to me, traveling “solo”?  What had Gryph been saying to people when she knocked on their doors and secured us a place to stop for the night?  How was I going to get supplies without leaving the ponies alone?  So much of the trip has been based on teamwork – and we’d learned a lot about how to make things work for the 6 of us in terms of daily routines and protocols over the 5+ months on the trail.

My first night out I got told “no” 3 times before I finally found a place to stay.  That had never happened before!  But the place that said “yes” was a really good stop – 3 generations of Mexican men at Silverado Ranch took me in and treated me like family – feeding me pork from a pig they’d raised themselves and sharing stories into the night.  The ponies shared a pen and alfalfa with some goats, I enjoyed a sheltered camp spot and coffee and breakfast in the morning.  There was joy in my heart as I rode down the lovely Hassayampa Wash.

The next day I had reason to be grateful that my siblings are on Facebook!  I had gotten a pretty intense sunburn on my south arm and was in need of a light weight long sleeve shirt so I called my long-armed brother (who used to live in Phoenix) and a man that he knew from Food for the Hungry (in Bolivia) offered to drive down with his daughter and bring me a shirt and some sunscreen.  AND an unschooling family that my sister “knows” on-line were coming with a bale of hay and a picnic.  I rode past a very fancy equestrian center and rodeo grounds in search of the Gila River – which I could see on the map, and planned to follow through the next stage of my journey.  As I rode around some graffiti’d barricades a man in a white pick-up truck passed me.  I waved, trying to signal him to stop.  He half-waved back and kept driving.  I came around a bend in the road as he pulled up next to another big truck.  A large hispanic man emerged from the other truck.  The man who had passed me turned out to be a small asian man.  They were both wearing bullet-proof vests and had multiple guns and seemed to have plenty of ammo.  I tried to act normal and asked if they knew the area.  “No.”  “Do you know how far it is to the river from here?”  “It’s a long way – you should turn back.”  They didn’t have to tell me twice – this was obviously no place for a family picnic!  I rode back to the equestrian center and asked an equestrienne if she knew of a place I could camp with the ponies for the night.  She directed me to a near-by lake (which wasn’t on the map!) and I followed her directions – and then called my visitors to let them know where to find me.

That evening was really fun!  8 people had driven over an hour to be helpful – the spot on the lake was perfect – the ponies were charming scroungers – it was exciting to have “company” and the picnic was long on fruit (which I had been craving.)  I think everybody wished they were camping with me that night – and in the morning the sunrise was so beautiful that I stayed up to watch it rather than go back to sleep after a late night.

The next day was challenging – I got lost – twice!  Once by following an ATV trail for miles up an eerie and beautiful wash – only to have it turn around a clump of trees and stop – by a pile of spent shotgun shells.  I returned to the last known water, asked some kids who were fishing to help me with the map, and wound up riding through a posh AZ housing development – fancy houses cheek-by-jowl – each with their own little swimming pool nestled within the high-fenced oasis of the back yard.  People driving home from work stuck smartphones out of SUV windows to take my picture as they drove past without so much as a wave – I felt like a zoo exhibit.  Then I discovered that the road I was following turned into dirt and disappeared into a mountain.  At my absolute wits end I was rescued by a couple on bicycles – who were patient and kind and didn’t run away screaming when I dealt with an overly aggressive photographer by charging him with the ponies when he wouldn’t stop taking photos after I’d asked him to desist 3 times.  Instead they went out of their way to find a place to put the ponies for the night (bringing alfalfa from a different farm) – and then they invited me home to meet their kids, shower, eat nourishing and delicious food, wash laundry and get a good night’s sleep.  And they gave me a tent to replace my beloved ancient pyramid, which was rapidly giving up the ghost – which has served me admirably through the Rez (despite a few issues with elastic and glue from having spent 3 summers in an AZ garage -> nothing a little duct tape couldn’t handle.)

The next day brought an invitation from a couple driving by with a truck and trailer, who gave me directions to their house and offered not only a day of rest for the three of us, but helped me get the vaccines that the ponies needed before the end of the month, and convinced me that the safest, sanest choice was to load the ponies into their trailer for a ride up to Globe (and after seeing the road I was really glad I’d heeded their wisdom!)  Meanwhile my mom had sent a care package to a cousin I hadn’t seen in 10 years, and she came down with her 3 kids to deliver it – we went to Dairy Queen for ice cream while we caught up a bit – and the ponies were in a safe place to allow that to happen – hurrah!

One other wonderful surprise that transpired that week – which I only found out about in retrospect – was that my friends down in Manhattan Beach threw a Free Range Rodeo party – sponsored by Rookie Brewing – and raised enough money that I was able to order an MSR Mutha Hubba tent – which fits all my requirements, and will hopefully last the rest of the Journey.  I’m hoping to find it at the PO tomorrow morning!

So – that was the first week sans Gryph.  I found myself missing her most when things got strange – or beautiful – not having someone there to share the numina (things that can be perceived with the mind, though not with the senses).  I am aware that Finehorn considers me a poor substitute – but she’s adapting and Jesse is paying more attention to her as well.  I am learning that I can do this Journey solo – and that even without Gryph this ride is what I most want to be doing with my life.  Blessings on the Journey – Blessings on us all!

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Living your Purpose

Jennifer McGrail blogged about her visit with Sea last weekend in a blog titled “Living Your Purpose” (click on the title to read that blog post,) She included a couple of great pictures of her kids, Sea and the ponies.

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San Carlos Nation

Sea is riding through the San Carlos Apache Indian Reservation, also known as the San Carlos Nation. Sea has been having a great time w/ the Apache she has been meeting along the way.

Sea spent last night by the river in the town of San Carlos. Right now she’s headed down to find another camping spot by the river. If she finds a nice spot she’ll be spending an extra night to give the ponies a much needed day of rest.

Sea is without computer access and has limited phone connection during this leg of the trip. Whenever she has the chance, as close to daily as possible, Sea updates her Daily Update/Contact Information page. If she can’t get online she phones in an update to a helpful friend or family member.  Click the tab above this post, just below her header to read the latest, including her use of pony power in dealing w/ a disrespectful photographer.

Be sure to check her Daily Update often because the updates aren’t saved, once they are gone you’ve missed your chance to find out the inside scoop of the trip.

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Heading Out from El Dorado Hot Springs

Photo Credit: Cheryl

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Lakeside Dinner Delivery

Photo Credit: Mike

Thank you to the McGrail family for bringing a picnic to share w/ Sea and the ponies!

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A New Chapter

Jesse James and Finehorn have been watching me very carefully the past few days.  I think they must wonder if I’m leaving or if it will be one of them.  They stand closer together than they usually do, they whicker in my direction and share their alfalfa with the three young bunnies in camp.  When I fed them this morning I told them to eat up because we’re leaving today.

It’s been a bit of a rough stretch, halving the Free Range Rodeo, even though all of the departing members are going on to great things.  Gryph is up in Boulder, working hard at finding the right situation for her apprenticeship in circus skills.  Daisy and Cowgirl left Sunday morning for Rosamond and in less than a week Daisy will catch a ride north to Redding where my cousin eagerly awaits her arrival.  Cowgirl went on her first Pacific Crest Trail scouting trip on Wednesday and I received this missive yesterday:
“she was perfect. She wanted to lead. 4 miles up, narrow rocky trail with a beginner. she was into it.”

I’ve spent the past two weeks working (massage therapy) to replenish funds, soaking in hot water, trying to catch up on a bit of the pragma and wondering what’s next.  Today I find out.  Setting out “solo” isn’t scary so much as it’s requiring me to jump back on the learning curve -> how to pack Finehorn sensibly and symmetrically sans Gryph and her gear is a challenge I must surmount this morning.  Gryph has been the Quartermaster – most of that level of organization fell on her shoulders, to the point where it had slipped off my radar – until suddenly she was gone.  The same holds true in matters of photography and food – I’m having to take on three new jobs – essential functions that I have not had to worry about for months!

I realized yesterday that while, yes, I do have a level of trepidation about where I will sleep tonight and how I will sort for the ponies, it’s not any stronger than it had been when there were 6 of us – that’s a daily tension that seems a part of the Journey.  It’s been a rare thing in the past 5 months to know where we are going to stop before we get to a likely place and ask.  It’s worked out pretty well thus far – blessings on the many “strangers” who have befriended us along the way – and I find myself anticipating that it will continue to work out as I continue to make my way Eastward.

And now it is time to step into the hot tub for one last soak, balance the bags (and see if there’s anything else that i can possibly leave behind), groom and saddle the ponies, load up Finehorn, don my spectacular new hat, zip up my chaps, hop on Jesse James and hit the trail – riding out of El Dorado Hot Springs and into the next phase of the Journey.

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Happy News

Cowgirl has found a new situation – working with B and her Volunteer Trail Maintenance Crew on the Pacific Crest Trail.  We are really excited and feel like she’ll be really happy in her new life (it comes with a pasture, work she enjoys and lots of love).  She’s moving back to California on Saturday and will go on her first scouting trip on Wednesday.  Rejoicing!

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