A New Chapter

Jesse James and Finehorn have been watching me very carefully the past few days.  I think they must wonder if I’m leaving or if it will be one of them.  They stand closer together than they usually do, they whicker in my direction and share their alfalfa with the three young bunnies in camp.  When I fed them this morning I told them to eat up because we’re leaving today.

It’s been a bit of a rough stretch, halving the Free Range Rodeo, even though all of the departing members are going on to great things.  Gryph is up in Boulder, working hard at finding the right situation for her apprenticeship in circus skills.  Daisy and Cowgirl left Sunday morning for Rosamond and in less than a week Daisy will catch a ride north to Redding where my cousin eagerly awaits her arrival.  Cowgirl went on her first Pacific Crest Trail scouting trip on Wednesday and I received this missive yesterday:
“she was perfect. She wanted to lead. 4 miles up, narrow rocky trail with a beginner. she was into it.”

I’ve spent the past two weeks working (massage therapy) to replenish funds, soaking in hot water, trying to catch up on a bit of the pragma and wondering what’s next.  Today I find out.  Setting out “solo” isn’t scary so much as it’s requiring me to jump back on the learning curve -> how to pack Finehorn sensibly and symmetrically sans Gryph and her gear is a challenge I must surmount this morning.  Gryph has been the Quartermaster – most of that level of organization fell on her shoulders, to the point where it had slipped off my radar – until suddenly she was gone.  The same holds true in matters of photography and food – I’m having to take on three new jobs – essential functions that I have not had to worry about for months!

I realized yesterday that while, yes, I do have a level of trepidation about where I will sleep tonight and how I will sort for the ponies, it’s not any stronger than it had been when there were 6 of us – that’s a daily tension that seems a part of the Journey.  It’s been a rare thing in the past 5 months to know where we are going to stop before we get to a likely place and ask.  It’s worked out pretty well thus far – blessings on the many “strangers” who have befriended us along the way – and I find myself anticipating that it will continue to work out as I continue to make my way Eastward.

And now it is time to step into the hot tub for one last soak, balance the bags (and see if there’s anything else that i can possibly leave behind), groom and saddle the ponies, load up Finehorn, don my spectacular new hat, zip up my chaps, hop on Jesse James and hit the trail – riding out of El Dorado Hot Springs and into the next phase of the Journey.

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Happy News

Cowgirl has found a new situation – working with B and her Volunteer Trail Maintenance Crew on the Pacific Crest Trail.  We are really excited and feel like she’ll be really happy in her new life (it comes with a pasture, work she enjoys and lots of love).  She’s moving back to California on Saturday and will go on her first scouting trip on Wednesday.  Rejoicing!

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a Fork in the Road

Gryph (on Finehorn) and Sea (on Jesse James) rode into the El Dorado Hot Springs in Tonopah on Saturday night, celebrating 5 months  on the trail as the Free Range Rodeo.  It’s been an amazing 5 month Journey, full of blessings and lessons and more than our fair share of sunny days (we’ve ridden in 1 1/2 days of rain this whole time!) and now we have come to a fork in the road.

When we left the Apple Farm we were talking a lot about “living the question” (Rilke) – and the questions we were living as a part of the Journey.  “What is it like to live with/as the herd?”  was one of the questions we were eager to inhabit.  “Where will we sleep and how will we feed the ponies?”  was another question high up in our minds.  But deeper down and late at night there were other questions, “Who am I going to have to become in order to live this life?” and “Why are we Really doing this?”  I was very clear that while I have wanted to cross the country on horseback since I was a child, that this Journey is the major dream of my life, the one I never outgrew, the fantasy that’s haunted every period of discontent – while I know that this is what my soul is called to do – I have no idea WHY.

Over the past 5 months, as I’ve grown into this life and this Journey, I’ve often had the feeling that this is what I was designed for: physically, mentally, emotionally, spiritually.  It’s a strange feeling, and a good one.  This trip has not all been easy.  Last week we had to camp out in the desert in a wind storm with gusty 50mph winds.  We tucked the hay for the ponies into the greasewood bushes, put everything we could into our drybags (which also keep dust out!) crawled into our sleeping bags, rolled up in tarps and waited for morning.  We even slept some.  In the morning we had sand in our mouths, in our eyes and noses and ears, in our sleeping bags and clothes – it had permeated everything permeable.  And I still sat there thinking: it sure beats an hour and a half commute each way every day to a desk job.  But that’s just me.  And nobody’s life is made up only of good bits.  I have a feeling like I’m growing into myself through this Journey – and that’s probably part of the point.

Another part is something that I hadn’t really pondered much ahead of time – which is the effect this trip has been having on others we’ve encountered along the way.  I think a part of me didn’t really believe that we were going to get away with this – I couldn’t live with myself if I didn’t at least try – but I more than half believed that some authority figure would come along and put a stop to things.  Oh me of little faith.  And the very fact that we Are succeeding at doing something like this, in 2012, without a corporate sponsor (or a whole lot of money saved up) is inspiring – not only to us, but to plenty of other people who are in various stages of living their own dreams.  I heard on the ‘phone the other day from a woman we’d met during the first month of the Journey who said she was still following the blog and how she keeps being amazed at how many nice people we’re meeting, and how many great experiences we’ve had – because she had really feared for our safety and figured we’d have all sorts of problems with bad people along the way.  One of the blessings of this Journey is finding that by daring to live out my dream, I’m encouraging other people to do the same.  It’s pretty cool to be experiencing that “theory” – live!

Which brings us to the deep thoughts engendered by our recent desert crossings and the dreams of Gryphon.  Gryph has decided that it’s time to pursue her own dream of performing.  She’s heading to Boulder to find a trainer and start rehearsing for the September auditions for Cirque du Soleil.  I saw Gryph practicing Aerial Silk Dancing last summer, and she’s amazing.  She’s also got a lot of hard work ahead of her in the next 5 months!  It’s hard to imagine this Journey without Gryph – this past 5 months would have been a lot harder without her partnership.  But at this point I have gained the confidence to go on alone – and she’s gained the confidence to follow her own dream.  Blessings on the Journey.  (It somehow seems totally appropriate that if she’s leaving the Rodeo it’s to join the Cirque.)

The hardest part of this decision has been the realization that I can’t keep the herd together if I’m going solo.  I’ll continue riding Jesse James, Finehorn will continue in her preferred role of stalwart pack pony – and it’s looking like Daisy will be heading up to join my cousin Susie in Redding.  But Cowgirl needs to find a new situation.  She’s served us well – kept her cool through traffic and barking dogs, freight trains and narrow mountain trails – we’ve ridden her, packed her, ponied off of her, forded rivers and crossed the Mojave.  We’re sad to see her go – but we do need to find a new home for her – ASAP.  If you’re interested or know someone who might be, please be in touch (contact information is on the “daily update” page).  Thank You!

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The Belated Scoop

Well folks, although the Free Range Rodeo of over a month ago is very different from the Free Range Rodeo of today, we still thought you may be interested in hearing a piece of the past that will help to catch us up to the now. It is well known that Sea left for a week on February 7th to visit with the family in Florida. What is less well known is what took place concerning the Free Range Rodeo in her absence, for without access to the internet we were unable to tell of our adventures, So here’s the belated scoop.

Live from the Lucerne Valley’s Lazy Lizard Ranch, a special Free Range Rodeo report: Following a grueling 25 something mile trek over hills and up river beds, down dusty valley roads and finally the long race alongside the desert highway, giant storm clouds encircling the valley on three of its cardinal points and scatterings of hail on our tail hastening the trot:

 Cowgirl carrying Gryph and Jesse with his guest passenger arrrived at night fall to the opulent retreat of lazy lizard rancho. Jesse and Cowgirl where eager to reunite with the rest of the herd who had expediated up the road with R Rescue and had for most of the day been living it up in their own stall. Also were our two protagonists excited by the scents and sights of many other mares of different extraction all lounging in spacious stalls, the light dust of alfalfa hanging low to the ground.

Gryph & guest where then graciously located to one of the on-site guest accomodations and a dinner of roast chicken and potatoes with soda pops provided to ease the discomfort of their 8 or so hours in the saddle.

The days leading up could not prepare us for this ride, but at least hinted that we could indeed handle such a thing. From S’s, on Smoketree road, we rode out healthy and energized from a restful few days waiting for our McClellan saddle to be repaired. A long day down Smoketree to Baldy Mesa, south into an enthusiastic desert plains wind and eventually to the overpass taking us across the dreaded highway 15. As the sun lowered into the hills our thoughts turned towards setting up camp, the road led us to a fenced dirt lot where we rested our ponies and ourselves that night. Our host M brought us wood for a campfire and we cooked up a feast that could not be beat. We put up our tent and the whole herd contentedly grazed together.

   The next day was when the wind started in ernest, and on it blew through the night. So, it came to be after a cold night of Hesperia Parks and Recreation’s hospitality: the horses in wind-swept, trough-less stalls, and the humans slumped amongst their belongings in discreet array, huddled from the wind in an ancient aztec dome, the temorarily re-constructed Free Range Rodeo waited tensely and helplessly for the imminent and ominous dark clouds approaching….

The light of morning came at last, breaking the cold drafts of that night’s sleep, leading us to face a whole new day: Our dear Saint Finehorn was feeling disagreable in her front hoof, making it clear to us that she was not fit to do the miles the coming day commanded. We had to think fast and figure out a working plan for how to move down the road: staying there was not an option. Trail Angel R answered our calls and came to our rescue in the nick of time. We had our two fine packhorses snugged in a 2 horse trailer and transported ahead of us.

We led our two remaining saddled steeds across the vast mojave river bed, sand devouring each step and dust blasting our eyes. We pushed on against the wind, looking behind nervously at dark storm clouds blowing closer. We were also taking in the facts: we were not crows, and as the pony flies we had a 25 mile day in this weather to complete before we could rest. We took back roads most of the way: long winding dirt roads weaving up and down hills and showing us a breathtaking view across the Granite Mountains and Dead Man Hills. Our special secret guest, escourted by Cowgirl, and Gryph on Mr. James, took in hoof the long roads crisscrossing the dusty valley. For hours the wind was high, but we managed to always stay one trot ahead of the great shadow lashing hailstones that loomed behind us. Taking paths that parelleled the highway, we made it to Lucerne Valley just before dark, and just as the rain and hail was catching up with us.

       

J met us in his truck to ensure that our progress was almost complete, and that we had a warm shower and wholesome meal awaiting us at the ranch. That good reassurance is what kept us going through the last 5 miles, soaked and cold and hungry. We arrived to destination in darkness, turned in the horses to rest and munch on some well- deserved alfalfa, and retreated to a warm dry room. Blessings on the Lazy Lizard Ranch.

 

The next morning, well rested, we awoke to meet the ranch in full light: a full sweeping view of the valley to the grandiose mountains beyond. The shadows and light played off the desert surrounding us, and Joshua Trees danced around the low slung western style of the Lazy Lizard Ranch: a place where horses reign happy, people rest easy and the lizards are lazy.

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The Desert on Horseback


It’s a sunny, breezy Sunday afternoon in Quartzsite, AZ.  The sound of the Karaoke coming from the Yacht Club next door makes me glad I’m outside.  I’ve just enjoyed my first shower in 11 days – having ridden across the Mojave  Desert in the meantime.  I don’t feel particularly clean, mostly I feel Dry.  Laundry is done and the Banana Split helped a Lot!
 

We crossed the Colorado River into Arizona on Monday, having reunited with Finehorn the night before.  Tuesday morning Cowgirl came up lame.  Wednesday showed no improvement.  We were camped in a dry lot, surrounded by thorn trees on the Colorado River Indian Reservation – and the Fox’s rental truck was due back in Yucca Valley on Thursday.  It’s hard not to succumb to panic or discouragement in moments like that.  Thank Goddess for cell ‘phones and trail angels.   By Wednesday afternoon L had offered a resting place in Buckeye – but had no trailer.  The ‘phone rang.  “I heard you’re stuck in the desert with some horses and need a trailer?”  I laughed in relief, “That’s close enough.”  As I explained our situation he stopped me – “Wait.  You’re Riding these horses across the country?!?”   Blessings on Mike from Wire to Wire Horse Transport – he dropped everything – hooked up his trailer and drove 150 miles to our rescue – arriving Wednesday night, After Dark!  At midnight:30 I got the call from L that Cowgirl and Daisy had arrived and were settled in and doing well.  And on that note I drifted off to sleep beneath the stars.

Thursday we rode down the road to the 70 Wash.  I’d studied the map and determined that taking the 70 Wash to Bowyer Gap Road was the most direct route.   Fox had heard from the Fire Department, and the Sheriff, and some guys in a jeep that the Tyson wash was our best route and the lowest path through the mountains.  That didn’t jive with what I was reading on the map, so I ignored the local wisdom.  Thursday was windy and chilly and long.  There were high winds predicted for Friday.  Kurt, en route to join the rodeo for a week, taking over the pack pony role from the Fox, stopped to talk to the Tribal Police and Fish and Game to get permission to camp by the “Area Closed.  Extreme Fire Risk.” sign and to ride down the 70 Wash to Quartzsite in the morning.  They readily granted permission, but seemed a bit surprised by our choice of route.  “The Tyson Wash is an easier way to go.”
 
Friday morning at 4:15am we awoke to flapping tarps and blowing dust in our eyes and mouths and ears and bedrolls and tin tea cups.  I could hear things blowing around camp but knew that if I got up and started trying to chase things down in the dark my bedroll would blow away without me.  I dragged what I could into the sleeping bag with me, pulled the blue tarp tighter around my bedroll and waited for morning.  The wind abated slightly with the dawn and we packed up camp.  “Gryph, you’re the one riding the kite, what’s your call?”  (Finehorn had been light as a feather in the winds of yesterday, blowing this way and that, imitating the clouds of red-winged black birds and having more fun than Gryph who was sitting on back, pinning her wings.)  “I just want to get it over with.  Let’s go.”

It was less windy up the wash.  The wildflowers were in bloom and we were dressed for the weather.  We had water and food and maps and a compass.  A few miles in we met a couple camping near their jeep.  He was from the reservation, tall and lean, and his wife was short and round and blond and cheerful.  He tried to direct us over to the Tyson Wash, said he was skeptical about our chances of finding our way through the 70 Wash to Bowyer Gap Road – we thanked him and went on our way.  There are times that my stubborn determination does not serve me well.  As we went further up the wash the way became rockier and less clear.  The cactus became more abundant.  The wind picked up.  We took turns holding the ponies and scouting ahead to find the most promising route.  Years ago I wrote a short story called “Badlands” warning myself about just this sort of situation.  Finally we gave up and turned back – trying not to see this as a failure, but as us being smart enough to turn back in time and therefore not need a search and rescue party thrown in our honor.  Tomorrow would be another day – and we’d take the Tyson Wash.

Which we did – and 8 hours later, not without some uncomfortable moments – wondering if there was something wrong with the compass – or the map – or our brains – we arrived in Quartzsite to find Kurt and his Yurt holding down a piece of desert with our names on it.  Tomorrow we start the 90 mile ride to Tonopah.  The forecast is for 90*F.  Tuesday the winds return.  If things go as planned we will be soaking in the El Dorado Hot Springs by Friday evening…

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Brief Update

Writing from the McDonald’s in Parker, AZ, I find it hard to know how to give a brief recap of the past two weeks!  We had to leave Finehorn behind for a week and a half due to a small screw that got into her hoof – she received excellent care from S&R and returned to us two nights ago just before we crossed over into Arizona.  It’s good to have her back and she looks great!  Crossing the Mojave Desert on horseback was INTENSE!!!  The wind and the sun and the hard footing and the 20 mile days balanced out the glorious sunsets and vivid stars and the best nights of camping we’ve had yet.  Even following the Colorado River Aquaduct for a good portion of the way, we couldn’t have done it without vehicular support – there was Nothing growing that the horses considered to be food.  We are so grateful to the Fox for helping us in that regard.

We crossed over into Arizona yesterday morning – following the Colorado River south – and camped last night in a dry lot with thorn trees and the remnants of bee hives.  This morning we awoke to find that Cowgirl’s front right hoof was too sore to handle the 15 mile day we had planned – so the ponies are having a well-deserved day of rest while I try and sort a ride for Cowgirl (and maybe Daisy) to a rest stop in Quartzsite or Buckeye or Phoenix.  (If you can help with this Please be in touch!)  As soon as that’s sorted Gryph and I will ride Jesse and Finehorn on to Quartzsite (2 more days of riding) – and then head on to Tonopah.  (With help from K who has volunteered to come from Sebastopol with his truck to help us with water and hay through that stretch.)

We stayed a night at the White Rock Horse Rescue – and are so glad to know that such a place exists – doing Great work with horses (and humans!) – educating and healing and matching up creatures that suit one another.  So exciting to see kids learning to ride bareback and to hear just a few of the inspiring stories that transpire there regularly.  While we were there a reporter came out from the Hi Desert Star and did an interview – and then she came out again when we met a vet by the side of the road to get health certificates so that we could cross over into Arizona.  Nobody has asked us for those papers – but better safe than sorry – and it’s good to know that the ponies are in good shape.

We hope to be back on line soon with photos and stories and news…

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Limited Communication

Our internet connections are limited at present. We appreciate your continued support and encouragement and we will try to phone in a daily update to someone who can post on a regular basis. We will add more full blog posts as soon as possible.

Until then, click on the Daily updates/Contact info above to see where we are.

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Photos by Dee

      

       

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Taken in by Family

A week ago today there was a knock on the trailer door.  “You need to pack up and move on down the road, Today.”  This was not part of the carefully constructed plan that would allow Sea to spend a week away from the herd, celebrating her parents’ 50th anniversary at a family reunion in Disney World, while Gryph and the 4 ponies had a safe haven where they didn’t have to worry about traveling (and the herd stayed in proximity to LA and the airports).  The Fox had a plane ticket and plans to come over from Ireland so that he and Gryph could spend some time together.  There was a moment of panic.  Now What!?!

Focus on the Pragma.  We packed our drybags.  We updated the blog’s “daily update” page.  We groomed and saddled the horses.  We loaded everything we owned onto Finehorn and Daisy.  We climbed aboard Jesse James and Cowgirl and rode on down the road.  Four hours was enough time to get everything sorted, including our headspace.  Really, apart from the minor complication of the flight to Florida, we were just doing what we’d already been doing for 3 1/2 months – riding down the road with our horses and looking for a place to stay every night.  We rode down the road feeling unsettled – and relieved!  The situation hadn’t been good from the beginning, but it was the only plan we had.  Now what?

Sea called home, wanting to reassure her folks that she was still planning to be there for the reunion/celebration.  Somehow.  The reassurance flowed in the other direction.  Sea’s mom reminded us how quickly everything changes in this strange life we are living.  How frequently things have changed dramatically in a day or three.  We thought about that as we rode.  How often our plans have fallen through in favor of something better than we could have hoped for or imagined.  We were exhausted and feeling a bit lost – but it was a beautiful day to be riding, the ponies were in good form and glad to be moving on and we had no choice but to trust that the way would be made clear.  If only everything didn’t feel so complicated…

We rode across the desert for several hours feeling like we were fleeing – needing to put distance between us and the week of draining toxicity we’d left behind.  This was a land of tumbleweeds and jackrabbits, rabbitbrush and ravens, abandoned houses in a parched valley between mountain ranges adorned with modern windmills and a few traces of snow.  We were tired and in need of a safe haven for the night, but approaching a stranger to ask for hospitality seemed daunting and unlikely.  Our faith in our fellow man (and woman) was not at an all-time high.  We wondered if maybe the water was still on at one of the abandoned houses…

Finally we saw an empty corral with a few outbuildings behind a house that looked well cared for and possibly inhabited.  We rode up the driveway and dismounted, looking at one another and shrugging.  The worst they could do was say no – and it looked like our best option.  Gryph bravely walked up to the door and knocked.

The reaction of the woman who answered her knock was delightful and welcoming.  We were welcome to the corral, we were invited to dinner, we were offered showers and the opportunity to do laundry, we were embraced by a Family.  H’s husband came home from his job as an Air Force pilot and was similarly warm and welcoming and real.  Their 5 kids were a joy to interact with – polite and curious and alive and fun.  They were being homeschooled and the first 13 presidents were posted on the wall above the kitchen table.  Dinner conversation was easy and genuine.  We started to relax – so very grateful for this unexpected pleasure.

The next morning the kids helped us groom and saddle the horses, Jesse and Cowgirl gave them each a ride around the paddock, and we rode out feeling much renewed in body and soul.  Gryph was thoughtful and quiet during the first part of our ride, and finally remarked that this was the first time she’d really understood “Family”, in the sense of “oh, so that’s what a family is, that sense of belonging and inter-relation – what an inspiration to see the beauty of how they all co-exist in connection with one another.”

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Words of Wisdom from Steinbeck

And here’s a story you can hardly believe, but it’s true, and it’s funny and it’s beautiful.  There was a family of 12 and they were forced off the land.  They had no car.  They built a trailer out of junk and loaded it with their possessions.  They pulled it to the side of 66 and waited.  And pretty soon a sedan picked them up.  Five of them rode in the sedan and seven on the trailer, and a dog on the trailer.  They got to California in two jumps.  The man who pulled them fed them.  And that’s true.  But how can such courage be, and such faith in their own species?  Very few things would teach such faith.

The people in flight from the terror behind – strange things happen to them, some bitterly cruel and some so beautiful that the faith is refired forever.

From John Steinbeck’s: The Grapes of Wrath

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