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Photos by Dee
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Tagged dee guernsey, digitaldee3, free range rodeo photos, Llano, pack horse
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Taken in by Family
A week ago today there was a knock on the trailer door. “You need to pack up and move on down the road, Today.” This was not part of the carefully constructed plan that would allow Sea to spend a week away from the herd, celebrating her parents’ 50th anniversary at a family reunion in Disney World, while Gryph and the 4 ponies had a safe haven where they didn’t have to worry about traveling (and the herd stayed in proximity to LA and the airports). The Fox had a plane ticket and plans to come over from Ireland so that he and Gryph could spend some time together. There was a moment of panic. Now What!?!
Focus on the Pragma. We packed our drybags. We updated the blog’s “daily update” page. We groomed and saddled the horses. We loaded everything we owned onto Finehorn and Daisy. We climbed aboard Jesse James and Cowgirl and rode on down the road. Four hours was enough time to get everything sorted, including our headspace. Really, apart from the minor complication of the flight to Florida, we were just doing what we’d already been doing for 3 1/2 months – riding down the road with our horses and looking for a place to stay every night. We rode down the road feeling unsettled – and relieved! The situation hadn’t been good from the beginning, but it was the only plan we had. Now what?
Sea called home, wanting to reassure her folks that she was still planning to be there for the reunion/celebration. Somehow. The reassurance flowed in the other direction. Sea’s mom reminded us how quickly everything changes in this strange life we are living. How frequently things have changed dramatically in a day or three. We thought about that as we rode. How often our plans have fallen through in favor of something better than we could have hoped for or imagined. We were exhausted and feeling a bit lost – but it was a beautiful day to be riding, the ponies were in good form and glad to be moving on and we had no choice but to trust that the way would be made clear. If only everything didn’t feel so complicated…
We rode across the desert for several hours feeling like we were fleeing – needing to put distance between us and the week of draining toxicity we’d left behind. This was a land of tumbleweeds and jackrabbits, rabbitbrush and ravens, abandoned houses in a parched valley between mountain ranges adorned with modern windmills and a few traces of snow. We were tired and in need of a safe haven for the night, but approaching a stranger to ask for hospitality seemed daunting and unlikely. Our faith in our fellow man (and woman) was not at an all-time high. We wondered if maybe the water was still on at one of the abandoned houses…
Finally we saw an empty corral with a few outbuildings behind a house that looked well cared for and possibly inhabited. We rode up the driveway and dismounted, looking at one another and shrugging. The worst they could do was say no – and it looked like our best option. Gryph bravely walked up to the door and knocked.
The reaction of the woman who answered her knock was delightful and welcoming. We were welcome to the corral, we were invited to dinner, we were offered showers and the opportunity to do laundry, we were embraced by a Family. H’s husband came home from his job as an Air Force pilot and was similarly warm and welcoming and real. Their 5 kids were a joy to interact with – polite and curious and alive and fun. They were being homeschooled and the first 13 presidents were posted on the wall above the kitchen table. Dinner conversation was easy and genuine. We started to relax – so very grateful for this unexpected pleasure.
The next morning the kids helped us groom and saddle the horses, Jesse and Cowgirl gave them each a ride around the paddock, and we rode out feeling much renewed in body and soul. Gryph was thoughtful and quiet during the first part of our ride, and finally remarked that this was the first time she’d really understood “Family”, in the sense of “oh, so that’s what a family is, that sense of belonging and inter-relation – what an inspiration to see the beauty of how they all co-exist in connection with one another.”
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Tagged eviction, faith, family, homeschooling, hospitality, mom wisdom, pony rides
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Words of Wisdom from Steinbeck
And here’s a story you can hardly believe, but it’s true, and it’s funny and it’s beautiful. There was a family of 12 and they were forced off the land. They had no car. They built a trailer out of junk and loaded it with their possessions. They pulled it to the side of 66 and waited. And pretty soon a sedan picked them up. Five of them rode in the sedan and seven on the trailer, and a dog on the trailer. They got to California in two jumps. The man who pulled them fed them. And that’s true. But how can such courage be, and such faith in their own species? Very few things would teach such faith.
The people in flight from the terror behind – strange things happen to them, some bitterly cruel and some so beautiful that the faith is refired forever.
From John Steinbeck’s: The Grapes of Wrath
Possessions
Heading into the Wilderness we had to carry everything we would need, for all of us, in order to have a reasonable chance of coming out the other side alive. We would not have cell ‘phone reception or internet access for at least 12 days. We needed to be self-sufficient and prepared. So much of this journey has been a daily walk of grace. There is no way to plan for the responses of strangers; for the unknowns of being travelers with horses in a place where all of the land we are traveling through is owned by someone. There is less need for planning when we are moving along roads and past stores and in easy range of communication. The Wilderness is a very different sort of experience. There was not much margin for error – our carrying capacity was finite. What did we Need – and what extras were worth the weight?
“The more you know, the less you need.” I heard those words in my head both as a challenge to my knowledge and skills – and somewhat mockingly as I looked at the pile of gear and food that we planned to pack into the Wilderness on our ponies. Our “extra” packhorse was suddenly carrying a full load of her own. The amount of “necessary” stuff always seems to increase to fill the available space. This is equally true of vehicles, apartments and estates, but it really snaps into focus when the load must be packed up and loaded, carried along with us everywhere we go, with no place to pick up something we forgot. Everything we carry is blessing and burden. This is the balance, as much as the size and weight, of the object in question. Every day we move we have to pack up everything and load it onto the ponies. Every night we have to make camp and stow everything we own Somewhere. This is one of the most difficult aspects of the trip – and we often discuss what we can get rid of in order to make our lives easier.

We become defined by our possessions. We have become “The Women Traveling By Horseback.” Someone at the hot springs asked if we were the people who owned the horses. I later had the realization that the horses own us every bit as much as we own them. At this point our lives are largely taken up with figuring out how to feed and water and care for our herd, and how to move the journey forward. This is who we are. We are the custodians of our possessions, the caretakers of the beings and objects with which we share our lives. When we head off into the Wilderness, the decisions we make about what to take with us can have serious consequences. Do we or don’t we pack the pepper spray as a defense against bears? Two cans? What goes in the first aid kit? How much food do we need for ourselves and how much for the ponies? Can we stay warm enough? What about rain? How many books do we really think we’ll read? Spare batteries? Can we count on cooking over a fire most of the time and how does that effect the amount of denatured alcohol we pack for the camp stove? Do we have a plan B if the creek rises or there’s an accident?
We called the Ozena Ranger station on Friday before we left. The ranger filled us in on which roads were closed for the season, water levels in the creek, campsites on the way out. He said he’d be at the ranger station by 8am on Saturday and we could sign the fire permits and pick up maps. Cool. Saturday morning we loaded the ponies into B’s trailer and he drove us down to the trailhead, via the ranger station. No Ranger. We knocked and called. No Ranger. Plan B – and we hadn’t even gotten started yet. We took photos of the maps on the display boards – they were not detailed maps, but it was something. We left without fire permits ($10,000 fine for Any use of flame without them) but carried a list of the regulations D had printed out for us on his computer. We left without maps.

We’d been in at Willets Hot Springs for a week, supplementing the graze with a bag of alfalfa pellets we found, partially eaten by rodents, in the “bunker” (a cement room with a steel door which we were using for our food storage), when Finehorn colicked. Colic, aka tummy ache, is a serious situation in a horse. Horses lack the ability to vomit, so anything that goes in has to go through, and if they roll on the ground to try and ease the cramps they can twist a section of their intestine so that nothing can pass through. We hadn’t packed Banamine (a muscle relaxant) or a vet. We started walking with Finehorn, listening for gut sounds (a healthy horse Always has gut sounds) and offering her water. She was sweating and uncomfortable, obviously wishing we’d just leave her alone, but we kept walking her, not knowing what else to do. We’d found a 1/2 bottle of Wild Turkey in the cabin and had a 1/2 bottle of Olive Oil; we’d go old school if it came down to that, but after a few hours she passed some dark green stinky piles and rapidly returned to normal. Of course, we know Finehorn is sensitive to alfalfa – and here we’d been feeding her compressed alfalfa – no wonder she got sick! Lesson learned – and cheaply at that.

Sunday, the day before we left Willets, we met a couple who gave us their topo map which covered the route out via Sespe Hot Springs and Mutau Flats. As it turned out, we Really needed that map! But that’s a story for another day…
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Tagged colic, Mutau Flats, Ozena Ranger Station, pack horse, Sespe, wilderness, Willets Hot Springs, women traveling by horseback
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Hot Springs and High Country
Sometimes I wonder what the ponies make of all this. They have ways of making their preferences clear, and we do our best to respect that and work with them, but it is amazing and humbling how readily and steadily they carry us and our gear down highways and over mountains, fording rivers and waiting at red lights, patient with barking dogs and honking cars and our occasional ineptitudes…
When we got the horses out of the trailer at the Piedra Blanca trailhead Daisy acted like she’d never seen a pine tree before. It’s quite possible. She’d certainly never been packed before and here we were coming at her with bright yellow dry bags and a big white wizard’s cloak to wear. She sniffed and blew stiff-nosed suspicion at each stage of the process, and stepped mighty high and careful when we first led her out, but never balked or faltered – and by the time we reached camp I had tied the rope up to her pack and she was following Jesse’s tail like she’d been packing all her life. Jesse was keen to travel, feeling sure and strong and sound under me for the first time in a month and so very happy to be heading away from tarmac and traffic and onto mountain trails.
The ride in was gorgeous, big smooth rocks, orange buff ochre gravel, scrub grass and sage – good footing for the horses and a beautiful trail that looped and crossed and followed and rose above the Sespe Creek – beauty every way we looked. Gryph had her hands full riding Finehorn and ponying Cowgirl who was carrying our precariously packed food – the backpack boys we met were impressed!
We missed the turn-off for Willet’s Hot Springs (just as well, since the parking lot had been full of cars and the Springs and camps were just as full of backpackers). By the time we realized our mistake it was getting dark – we turned around and backtracked to the last campable spot we’d seen, Jesse snorting and grumbling his disgust at our navigational skills. We untacked the ponies, tethered Jesse and Finehorn, turned Cowgirl loose, and wondered what to do with Daisy. I was holding her on a long pony rope and letting her graze and she seemed to be sorting herself pretty well, careful of the rope and calm, so I put her on the long thick cotton training tether and joined Gryph in setting up camp. We’d brought more food than we could hoist up in the bear-bags – so we hung the smelliest stuff, and Gryph slept with the can of “Frontiersman” pepper spray cocked and ready for bear.
Daisy got a little tangled once or twice, but stopped and listened as we helped her out of her predicament. Tethering is something that horses have to learn how to do – it took Jesse months (and Finehorn weeks) to become adept at navigating the long rope. We had no idea if Daisy had ever tethered before, but at least she was being sensible. Then suddenly she wasn’t being sensible any more – she got herself in a bind and threw a fit – horseshoes throwing sparks off of careless rocks that got in her way, a great thrashing about that ended with Daisy lying on the ground, not tangled up in any way. She scrambled to her feet and then randomly threw herself down once again with a great groan – we rushed to her side where she lay as if she were merely resting for a spell and none of that undignified behaviour had ever happened. We checked her over for injuries and she was fine, we hung out with her for awhile, scratching her mane and stroking her neck and then encouraged her to get to her feet, which she did with a great shake. We tied her to an overhead limb for the night, to be on the safe side.
The next day, after a cold but otherwise uneventful night, we packed up and headed back in search of the hot springs. We arrived early Sunday afternoon as the last of the weekenders were packing up and heading out. We found a wee cabin with two bunk beds and a tiny wood stove and a pasture for the ponies with a spring fed water trough and felt like we’d died and gone to heaven. The ponies rolled and wandered and grazed and explored their new domain as we moved in, packed a snack, used our magic Steripen wand to ensure that the spring water piped to the cabin was safe to drink and set off in search of Willet’s Hot Springs.
A kilometer of hiking up a narrow trail around a ridge and into a box canyon brought us to a secluded grotto – and a big round stock tank full of 102* water, which spilled out of a fissure in the cliff above us and traveled through a pipe into the tub. We stripped down and climbed into the waters, sinking in up to our chins and suddenly becoming aware of every ache and pull and tension of the past three months as we finally gave our bodies and minds permission to relax. It was hours before we wobbled down the hill on jellied legs under a full moon – to our cozy wee cabin and sleep.
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Tagged dry bags, pack horse, Piedra Blanca, Sespe Creek, Steripen, tethering, wilderness with horses, Willets Hot Springs
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Words of Wisdom from Gramma
“There’s not much that hot water and a pair of clean skivvies can’t fix!”
-Gramma Barb
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Tagged clean skivvies, gramma wisdom, hot water, restoration
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The Mythical Finehorn
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Tagged drawing of horse, Finehorn, mythical horse, Norwegian Fjord, Saint Finehorn
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Words of Wisdom from a hillbilly saint
“Make money every chance you get- It’s the best protection.”
-Papa Don
“Sorry, my horse sat on your house…?!”
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Tagged horse on house, horse yurt, Jesse James, yurt drawing
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Gryph’s journal clippings- Cowboy Camp
11/10/11 This morning the grass was frosted over and cowboy camp’s spine shivered.
Finehorn stood with frost in her mane, and I had coffee (which is something i do now on the road) and hitchhiked to town – an insane day of car hopping, back to potter valley 60 miles west to retrieve saddle pads, clumsily left in S’s trailer attic. We arrived to Cowboy camp 1 night ago, as it is night now again sitting in the loo.
The nearest town is 15 miles away. The moutains are bare and dry. Tule elk are about the only thing living around here, and we haven’t seen one yet. There are several invasive species, including the golden star thistle that is poisonous to horses and gives them something called ‘chewing disease’. We came here hearing from several different people that there were corrals and running water, neither of which we found on arriving a half hour ’til sunset last night. So we hitched our ponies to metal posts, brought up water from the river, and camped in the cement box with pit toilet we call the loo. It does not smell in here, we made our bed on flakes of hay that we will need to feed to the ponies- yes, tomorrow the ponies eat our beds.
General hilarity fills the loo, and we almost die laughing, watching a miniature scene take place on the cement floor, shared between a spider, a fly, a rolley polley, a smashed can, and a red candle.
Rolley Polley: ” Bring out yer dead! Bring out yer dead!”
The old street corner, smashed can alley.
And the rabbit stick street light burns.
Tiny suitor is toast. Fruit fly thrashes, flails.
Spider wanders up and down the alley, paces the bright lit corners
and perched on shiny rim.
The fly is having its way with a piece of grass.
It’s scaring me that i have not ridden in over a week. There are some trails around here- and we found a western saddle that fits Cowgirl’s high whithers. Her legs are doing better.
At this point, 3 different people have driven into Cowboy Camp and upon seeing us and our horses, have marched up and demanded “Where is your vehicle?” We tell them, “You’re lookin’ at them”. I guess there have been a high number of horse abandonment cases in the recent past- people that can’t afford to keep their horses anymore, so they take them out to somewhere like Cowboy Camp, wait until some horse people with a big trailer come along and go out riding over the hills, and then proceed to tie their own horses to the trailer and walk away. Suprise! Either that, or they just let them wander into the hills to fend for themselves.

And i wish we could get the hell out of here soon, the creek is undrinkable even steri-pen-ed and boiled. We are sleeping in the loo mainly because it is warmer. Actually that’s the only reason, now that we have our bedrollls back….There are rumours of rain – and it is dry in here, with one red rabbit candle burning. If no rain- i move back into tent, frost or not.
November 12th – S & J came today, bearing packages and gifts, as well as very encouraging and Real energy to ride on. We were able to get rid of some of the extra burden, precious as it was… took fiddle and summer clothes for safe keepings- was loath to leave Thalia but winter is here and the leather case doesn’t fit, just throws me off balance riding. Rode Jesse today around Cowboy camp, Sea rode Dolarosa, found out guitar works with new western saddle. I will start out from here on Jesse James, Sea on Dolarosa. For then M, silent but lightened, who packs mules in the hills, found us here at random and brought de-natured alcohol! we needed it for fuel. He threw in some candy bars and black velvet whisky, which we all sipped together in the pink cloud strewn sunset, poring over the map from the tail of his white pick up- he gave us some useful information about the trails to Capay, and brought our extra grain to Full Belly Farm, where we will see it again in three days or less, if all goes well. We leave from here tomorrow, on BLM trails to the next campground est. 10 miles.
Sea and i got tipsy and silly, i cooking spuds and she reading from the Golden Ass, a trash romance from over 2000 years ago, badly translated and raunchily hilarious. Porno before Christ.

Well we’ve gotten along okay. Luxuries (whiskey, chocolate etc.) in abundance, lots of grain for the horses and alfalfa, which has got Finehorn snorting all the time- that or the golden star thistle- don’t know which but she’s not well. She is on the roam now, our golden beast becoming more mythical with each day. No ropes bind her yet she never meanders far. She woke me up last night, come between the tent and the loo to get the alfalfa, i went out under the full moon and saw how the mist was glowing and caught in the mountains, and Finehorn roamed the misty bright meadow in huffs. Come to see me and meet my embrace, moving with her prehistoric amble and flux, something strange- and wonderful is happening with her.
Señora Dolarosa is still sad, she is tied to a ring that moves freely back and forth across a taught rope above her head, 20 feet beetween high posts. She is behaving wonderfully, but has resigned herself from life. Her wounds are looking not as gory, swelling down on right knee, udder still swollen and hard, so uncared for, our beautiful Dolarosa, the dried afterbirth of her baby still clings to her tail. Next time we have hot water. A hard life she’s had, flinching away from kind unmeaningful gestures.

Finehorn snorts around the tent on this fine night, allergies in the crisp air. Sea has taken to the loo, and i sleep alone in the tent not far. I feel better in here/out here. A red candle glowing, the epic shapeshifting Finehorn makes herself heard.
And Jesse was good to ride today. I trust him to understand and take care of things. He will need to lead for a while. Good herd. Jesse, and the one we call Dolarosa, lying down in the dry grass and hay and thistle, the faithful herd, waiting. Our noble beasts lounging on their arses like us and waiting to go somewhere. We call Cowgirl Senora Dolarosa for now, because of her melancholy elegance.





























