Deep in the Central Valley

Neither of us had ever been through the Central Valley of California before this trip.  If I think about it we probably had vague notions about a lot of the country’s food being grown here, but we had No Concept in terms of what that looked like or what that might mean in practice.  We have been traveling through the valley for three weeks now, starting with a night in a lovely organic walnut orchard where we were given fresh goat’s milk, 4 fresh eggs, the best almonds we’d ever tasted and absolutely elegant walnuts.

   

As we’ve progressed down the valley the concept of organic has grown more and more foreign and impossible.  Cowgirl drank from an irrigation ditch and got sick and we’ve been warned not to let the ponies glean the edges of the alfalfa fields because they’ve recently been sprayed with some chemical so that the alfalfa won’t grow at this time of year.  We are riding along the edges of gigantic fields, endlessly repeating rectangles of almond trees and pomegranates, alfalfa and cotton, tilled fields of emptiness and ditches and canals full of non-potable water (even for the ponies).

   

We’re meeting wonderful, kind and helpful people who warn us to be careful because of all the poverty and crime in the area; we ride down the road and meet even more wonderful, kind and helpful people.  We’ve been taken in and fed and offered showers, we’ve been given bags of almonds and dried apricots and sandwiches for the road.  We’ve had help with route planning and getting photos up on the blog and tack adjustments and finding food for the ponies.  We’ve all 5 been transported past the Bay Area – which seems to be rather impassible on horseback.  We have been truly blessed.

   

I know I need to get more specific stories up on the blog, Soon!  I’m struggling with issues of naming names and being honest about our experiences on the road balanced against respect for people’s privacy and not wanting to buy into the current trend of dragging out the dirt because that’s what’s “interesting” to people.  I read a book this summer about a family who drove a draft horse pulling a caravan around the world.  It was a brilliant adventure but the book devolved into an extended thank you note to everyone they stayed with, telling who helped them and specifically how, and was frankly pretty boring to read.  I don’t want to make this blog to be about that.  I also find myself fearing charges of getting “political” if i touch on certain topics.  Please bear with us as we find our way with this blog, even as we’re finding our way across the continent with the ponies.  The blogging is taking as much courage as the riding, and it’s obviously an intregal part of the journey.  Feedback is welcome (please!) and hopefully the blog will evolve as we evolve and the journey evolves.

  

If things are sometimes out of order, it’s because we’re really behind on posting journal entries from the beginning of the trip until the present, but we do want to share them.  When those are posted they’ll be dated and we’ll let you know whose journal they came from.  Sometimes photos will be added to already posted entries – so scroll back through once in awhile to check.  Tonight we’re on the outskirts of San Joaquin, heading towards Helm and Riverdale.  The ponies are out back in a cow pen and we’ve been invited in for the night.  As the nighttime temps are down in the mid 20*s (F) we are grateful.  Days continue to be glorious in terms of weather, and flat and boring and kind of scary in terms of terrain.  We saw a sign on the edge of a field today “Congress Created Dust Bowls” and a huge tractor out in that field raising a huge cloud of blowing dust.  We are riding through a land of profitable non-sustainability.  Water is the issue most often discussed – or more accurately the increasing lack of water.  We are asking lots of questions and listening to lots of stories and struggling to put together any cohesive picture. We hope to be out of the Central Valley by Christmas.

  

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Sea’s Journal: Excerpts (pre-trip)

13 Sept. – Tuesday morning.  Yesterday was my last day of working as a trail guide at Highland Ranch.  I led two walking rides on a barefoot Jesse James.  So much to do with mom and dad arriving on thursday for the weekend.  Monday the 19th is the day of kicking into high gear – monofocus!  Shift of seasons – changing winds – clouds in the sky now after a summer of clear blue.

20 Sept. – Two weeks from departure on a two year (more or less?) journey across America on horseback and i am so swamped in the pragma of trip prep that the actuality of what we are attempting has lost focus.  The last time i rode my pony was Friday morning; i haven’t even seen him since then.  Gryph’s new pony arrived yesterday, still searching for a name and unridden over the past year.  My folks were here for a whirlwind 2 1/2 days, bringing gear and travel guitar from NY.  Trip prep stopped as we played tourist – going riding and hiking, to the fair and to the beach

21 Sept. – The trip itself has become surreal to me.  I have a feeling that the Anderson Valley is all i’ve ever known; this tiny world of the past 6 months, the Apple Farm, Highland Ranch, Lemon’s Market, Anderson Valley Brewing Company with WiFi and Disc Golf – and most especially this Camp where we’ve been living, comfortably and essentially outside all summer.  The Apple Farm of 35 acres – like a big house with rooms 1/4 mile apart – going up the hill to the pantry or the shower, across the creek  to trade massages at the teepee, bringing breakfast in bed to the chickens, the family of barn owls hunting through our open-air living room at night.  Camp/Apple Farm is Womb in the mother/body of Anderson Valley and we are about to be expelled through the birth canal (here to ocean and back to Ukiah) and into The Journey (proper)  and i am so aware that i have NO CONCEPT of what that will be like or how we will deal with it.

There are times i can barely breathe,overcome by the feeling of hanging out over a void, the unknowable, a squirming static emptiness in my chest, affecting my heartbeat, swelling up into my throat and squeezing my lungs.  The Fear has me and reflects out so that the simplest things, like opening an unfamiliar gate, becomes scary and potentially insurmountable.  My rational mind knows that this would be termed a “Panic Attack” in modern parlance, that there are drugs i could be prescribed that would buffer my emotions, smooth out my days, allow me to sleep at night, simulate some breathing room.  But i think my mind/body is telling me something TRUE!  We’re getting ready to go do something huge and scary and unknowable and brave and insane.  OK.  Pay Attention.  This is a Big Deal

12 Oct. – Highland Ranch.  Gryph is sitting on the deck of the yurt oiling tack.  Good ride today – tho short.  Gryph back on Vaca Suerte for the first time since the run-away incident on their first ride together.  They did really well together today.

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6 weeks in…

20. November finds us at the Dixon Fairgrounds. Gryph and I have thrown our bedrolls down in the Livery Stables on a carpeted square platform and the ponies are in the arena for the night. Much has happened in the past 3 weeks, including a change of steeds. Our beloved Vaca Suerte wasn’t well suited to life on the road – her metabolism and an unfortunate tendency to rain rot meant that she needed more food and shelter that we could provide. She went back to the woman we bought her from, with miles under her hooves and stories she’ll never tell. Gryph is now riding Finehorn and Cowgirl carries the pack.

“Cowgirl of 1000 names, Queen of the Rodeo, ’til late one night at the Boonville Fair, up and over she did go. She got a reputation, 3 years later had a foal, met us in Potter Valley then we took her on the road. When Finehorn chose a rider, Cowgirl took the pack. She’s joined the Free Range Rodeo and she ain’t lookin’ back.

(We’re working on a song about the journey – each of the horses has a verse – that’s Cowgirl’s verse – or at least the current version 😉

Tomorrow we are putting the ponies in a trailer and getting into the truck and heading down to Tracy, CA. Getting around the bay area in any sort of safe and reasonable way has proved to be beyond what we or anyone we’ve talked to can figure out and so, having been offered a ride, we’ve accepted gratefully. We finally got the 3G thing sorted on the iPad so hopefully blog entries will be happening more frequently – i’ve been keeping a daily journal and will be posting excerpts soon – and we’re working on figuring out how to post photos – and a map on which we’ll trace our route. We have been blessed with trail angels and fair weather – we’ve camped in walnut and almond orchards, slept in empty grain silos and soft warm beds, walked long miles beside narrow roads and ridden the edges of winter fields. We are all five alive and well, winter is hovering and it’s time to turn in for the night.

  

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Embarking on a Journey

  

Bizarrely, it has proven easier to embark on an epic journey involving 3 horses and 2 women crossing the continent on foot, than to get this blog functionally up and running. We are currently in Redwood Valley, CA, having left the Apple Farm in Philo on Columbus Day in the pouring rain.

  “We” are a traveling herd of 5: Sea G Rhydr aboard Jesse James, Gryph Wulfkil atop Vaca Suerte, and our stalwart pack pony, the heart of the journey, Saint Finehorn. Thus far we have been truly blessed in terms of weather, geography, havens, humans and herd.

   

From the Apple Farm, our beautiful home for the summer, (where Gryph was farming)

we were invited up to Highland Ranch (where Sea and Jesse James worked as trail guides all summer). We arrived soaked to the skin; Gryph on Jesse, Sea on Vaca, Finehorn carrying nothing at all. We got the horses settled into their paddock and moved into the yoga yurt for 4 days. Our friend Moss arrived that evening bearing the packsaddle he’d custom-made for Finehorn (in 3 days!) and all of our gear (blessedly dry.) For four days we worked hard, sorting gear and riding out with the horses on the spectacular Highland Ranch trails, provisioning and working with Finehorn and packing.

        

Gryph and Vaca are both pretty green (Gryph had cantered exactly once before Vaca Suerte ran away with her the first time we tried to take a trail ride) but by the time we left Highland Ranch on the 14th of October Sea was back on her beloved Jesse James, Gryph was on Vaca Suerte and Finehorn was fully loaded and coming into her own. We made it as far as the Apple Farm.

The next day Sophia sorted us into a Diamond Hitch and we were following the Navarro River to the Pacific Ocean by 1:30pm. The plan was 2 1/2 days. The reality was 4 1/2 days. The learning curve was intense. We met men who gave us maps. We got lost anyway. Every Day. Finehorn’s packs slipped sideways and had to be reconfigured. Every Day. Still. Today. One hour down the road we have to stop, unload everything, re-sort it and pack it all back on. Live the question: do we have enough of the requisite skills to pull this off? Can we learn the rest fast enough to keep the 5 of us safe and sound?
Already it seems strange to sleep where we can’t look out of our pyramid tent and see our ponies grazing. Finehorn and Jesse James have come a long way with their tether training. We can leave them tethered to graze on 30′ cotton ropes and for the most part they do really well, and if they do get tangled in something they wait patiently for us to come free them. We have even started leaving them on their tether ropes at night – much more comfortable for them. Vaca Suerte is another story! She has no respect for ropes so she gets tangled easily – and then panics. We’re dealing with this by leaving her free to roam during daylight hours (she doesn’t stray far from the herd) and then tying her high to a tree at night with a rope short enough that she can’t get into a mess. As long as she’s tied close to her buddy Finehorn she’s reasonably content, and it’s better than risking an injury.
There is so much to tell, but also much to do – this post is mostly to say that we are safe and well and learning – photos will follow soon, along with a route map.
Tomorrow we head towards Clear Lake – and further adventures!

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